Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Hey guys I just ordered a bunch of paint supplies and am finally getting around to painting my space wolves. I have some pretty basic questions before I get started. The methods that I am using are all inspired by Les at APJ. Base and highlight with airbrush ---> Gloss Varnish ---> Oil or Acrylic Wash ---> Matte Varnish ----> Final highlight and detail.

1. Do I need to let the wash dry completely before airbrushing on the matte varnish. I've heard of varnish screwing things up by making the model look hazy, but I also don't want to wait days for the oil wash to dry before moving on to the next step. From a little dakka research I have gotten conflicting information. Some say to let the oil wash dry completely others say that by spraying matte on soon afterwards it will negate the oil dry time.

2. For those of you that use the Vallejo varnishes, do you think them at all or just run them right through the airbrush. I've heard it both ways so I would like to get a consensus.

3. I have a similar question with layering. I assume each layer must be dry before applying another one yes?

4. For the wash clean up what do you use? Not the solvent... the applicator. I know Les uses little foam make up applicators. Does anyone have a good source for those that isn't online? Are they similar to these http://www.walmart.com/ip/Covergirl-Make-Up-Masters-Eye-Shadow-Applicators-3ct/10448888 ? I think Q tips may be too absorbent and that is why he uses foam.

5. For anyone that follows a similar method.... do you re-varnish (matte) after the model is completely finished. If so... holy crap lol... 3 layers of varnish. Super Clean may have a hard time with that.

Thanks ahead of time!

~Casey

1) You should let the oil dry fully. Using the right paint (quick drying oils) and thinner will speed the time. I always allow oils a minimum of 24 hours cure. Better safe than finding your varnish letting that oil spread. Usual practice is gloss-decals-gloss-oils-gloss-matt.

2) I thin pretty much everything I shoot through the AB. Don't use Vallejo varnishes, but you can spray the primers neat (I don't thin them).

3) Yes. Let each layer dry. A hairdryer really speeds things up. Don't try to speed dry washes with a hairdryer, it doesn't work well. Use less wash if you need it quick, and direct it into recesses manually.

4) Q tips moistened in a little thinner, about 2 hours after the oil wash goes on. The gloss helps prevent the layer under the oil being damaged.

5) See above, if doing AFV modelling techniques (oil washes, decalling) I'm normally looking at at least 6 layers of varnish, assuming a single matt coat (and no re-glossing!). More if doing salt weathering early in the process, or reglossing areas like lights etc.

Thank you very much for your reply. It was quite helpful. Regarding the last question... why so many layers of varnish? Are you using a lot of layers of different washes and you do each separately, or are you using it as a constant safety net so that you can correct mistakes with solvent without affecting the previous layer? I would think that that many layers would start to fill in details. The reason why I originally asked that question was because of the times I have watched the APJ tutorials, I have never seen him spray matte varnish at the end. Do you think it's because since he is only doing details and fine highlights at that point that he would want them to shine a bit without making the whole model glossy? Not saying that what Les is doing is the end all of painting.... Just using his methods as basic guidelines to help me out.

~Casey

More as a saftey net; though the gloss prior to oil washes is to aid capillary flow.

Generally the main layers of work are:
Primer
Main colours
Gloss - to prevent decal silvering
Decals - set on properly
Gloss - to protect decals, aid flow and protect paintwork.
Oil washes - over the top of decals to help line in / weather as applicable.
Gloss - final protective coat
Matt - to dull down
Potentially pigments here, then another light matt coat to seal them on.

Each coat is airbrushed, and thin - there's no notable filling of detail. Again, all the paintwork tends to be very thin coats too