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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut


Hey guys, I need everyones help

Let me know what you guys think about the placement and look of the lascannon sponsons. Feel free to leave some advice or tips or ideas.

The landraider is not even close to being done, going for a landraider proteus look. Pictures are below
[Thumb - IMG_4441.JPG]

[Thumb - IMG_4442.JPG]

[Thumb - IMG_4443.JPG]

Made in us
Mutilatin' Mad Dok

Philadelphia, PA

Is that one of the old school Egg-Raiders !
Ah the memories. I am not surprised you are having to build sponson's, those things were so flimsy and broke or were superglued straight onto the hull. I think yours are fine. The placement is fine.

Do you have any of those tan original Plastic Space marines to go with that guy for nastoliga sake

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut


I wish I had some old school marines, but alas no

Made in gb
Nurgle Veteran Marine with the Flu

heh, I have two of those old Land Raiders, one with a horrible paintjob and the other partially converted (predator turrets work really well). I've been looking for neat ideas on updating them so I'll be keeping an eye on this thread
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut


So i've added some bits, almost finished, I feel like its missing something, especially on the sides,

Let me know what I should add

Also should I armor the lascannons?
[Thumb - IMG_4444.JPG]

[Thumb - IMG_4446.JPG]

[Thumb - IMG_4447.JPG]

Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut

New Zealand

Yes, i reckon the guns would look better armoured.

Some icons on the doors would help them look less plain. And maybe some stowage boxes on the "ledge" below the upper tracks?
Made in us
Thinking of Joining a Davinite Loge

Minnesota, USA

It's a shame the original top hatch is gone. Those things are nice.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/04/17 07:23:22

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Made in us
Chalice-Wielding Sanguinary High Priest

Arlington TX, but want to be back in Seattle WA

I dont want to be to critical because your obviously not using the parts intended for the original raider model. But I think the lascannons look too big and stick out too far from the hull. I dont know how you could change that though. I think using sponsons from an imperial tank (Leman Russ) might look better and keep the MK1 look consistent throughout the model. The task then would be how to convert it into a twin-linked lascannon.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/04/17 12:49:40

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Made in au
Splattered With Acrylic Paint


its not that they're too big necessarily. I'm guessing you've glued them by now huh?

I'd suggest it its not too late:

Flip them over.

From a design point of view it gives the tank a more accurate home setting for forward fire and a wider arc of fire as well, cosmetically it will bring the proportions in more too.

I see there are doors, you probably plan to use these, but if the tank were real I'd guess the guns would be mounted further back on the chassis because the gun motors would take up space inside the tank and would probably need a magazine somewhere as well as a strong pillar joist for weight distribution.

Sticking them there would take up a lot of releastate inside the tank for fire command as well.

Of course, it is the future (and there is only war...) and there's no reason you couldn't argue they use small motors and some sort of science to work them effectively.

The big issue is of course modelling. Yeah, it'd be a b*tch to model, but you could cheat the system with a skirting type arrangement shaped something like:
^ ^
If you can imagine that tilted 90 degree's to the left

That way you cover up all the hard to detail stuff but retain the guns.

'Ere ta fix your gubbinz... 
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut


Yeah Most of the original landraider pieces are lost to the warp, I still have the original lascannons, but I don't really know how to mount them, any ideas?

Made in ca
Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine


I'm with Element206, they look a little large for the model. It might work better if they were closer to the hull.

If you cut the cables off and cut down the mounts, you could then run the cables "into" the LR. I don't know if you wan't to keep them to be able to move but I think it would look better.

Armour them, maybe use the armour from the Stormraven kits that go on the lascannons.

skycapt44 wrote:
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Made in us
Seven Year War Afficianado


optimusprime14 wrote:I'm with Element206, they look a little large for the model. It might work better if they were closer to the hull.

If you cut the cables off and cut down the mounts, you could then run the cables "into" the LR. I don't know if you wan't to keep them to be able to move but I think it would look better.

This is about what I was thinking. though I'd probably dispense with cables all together. I don't think the cannons are too big, just that they protrude to far. I wouldn't bother trying to retain movement either, as it will likely be much sturdier if you simply glue them in place.

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut


The cutting down idea on the mounts sounds good, thanks everyone

Made in th
Splattered With Acrylic Paint


My MSpaint skills are unmatched...

If you look at the original Mk1 Tank, they have sponsons that jut out and support the gun and allow the operator to squeeze in behind, rather than that, go for an automated look which will be easier.

using plastic card or modelling material:

Create the flaring for the top of the gun, but rather than spend weeks trying to build a pintle, create the illusion by sticking them on a flat sheet and tilting them in a direction (red arrows) so that it looks like they can pivot up and down.

Make sure the guns are sticking out far enough, but hack off the calbe feed and anything else that's adding extra height to the guns themselves to stop them sticking out too far or to stop the flaring from sitting flush on top of them.

The green on the diagram represents material, like a heavy canvas or leather that you might see on some tank guns from the first and pre war periods - this could be done using greenstuff and is meant to make it easier for you to get a clean looking model - obscuring the hard to paint interior of the turrent and also preventing anyone seeing that they're basically glued flush to the chassis.
[Thumb - lrlas.JPG]

'Ere ta fix your gubbinz... 
Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut

New Zealand

The original kit lascannons are also very "sticky-outy" - to be honest, so are the current LR ones, but the sponson shape hides the bulk somewhat.
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut



Hey Guys I finally got around to mounting the lascannons, pictures are below

Let me know what you think

Also I need to mount a second lascannon on each side,

Should I mount them side by side or over under? I am kind of leaning toward the over under look

[Thumb - IMG_4498.JPG]

[Thumb - IMG_4501.JPG]

[Thumb - IMG_4502.JPG]

Made in nz
Dakka Veteran

Midland, TX or Wellington, New Zealand

Hey!! Cool stuff, I think you're doing a fine job with refurbashing it!
I think for the lascannons you should go over and under since it would resemble the original lascannons, like this guy on Warseer:

I've worked on a couple of these old LRs myself, and the second one I aquired had its original lascannons, but not there mounts. I ended up fabricating those mounts with 25mm round bases. As seen here:

Just an idea if you want it to look more like it originally did or want to mount the original Lascannons!

Automatically Appended Next Post:
The way you have it is already great though!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/05/01 15:54:56

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timd wrote:

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Made in gb
Wrathful Warlord Titan Commander

Ramsden Heath, Essex

Nice Spartan Heliodore!

I agree over and under looks best. Curiously enough I have just finished building a FW Proteus LR. They mount the lascannons in a C shaped braket for horizontal traverse. This is then mounted on a circular mount which provides vertical traverse. Should be pretty simple to recreate.

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