Switch Theme:

Prepping resin models  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Screaming Shining Spear





Hagerstown, MD

So about to receive my first resin models/parts and wanted to know how to deal with them. Everywhere seems to say cool-slightly warm, soapy water and scrub very lightly with a tooth brush. Is there anything else I should know? Searched both P&M and P&MTut and didnt' see anything in the first few pages. Any advice or things to watch out for would be appreciated!

4500 Points
3500 (1500 painting, using Lizardmen models) http://imgur.com/a/Y28Fw#0
3000 Points of Heralds of Arcadia (Space Marines) 
   
Made in jp
[MOD]
Anti-piracy Officer






Somewhere in south-central England.

I put mine through the dishwasher on a cool cycle.

The material will bend fairly easily if you heat it over about 50 degrees centigrade, say by running the hot tap over it, or the steam from a kettle. This is used to bend back incorrect curves from production.

This also means that drilling should be done with care, as a high speed drill may heat up enough to bend or melt the resin.

If you sand or file resin you should wear a mask. The dust is fine and allegedly carcinogenic.

Superglue is the most convenient cement for assembly. Epoxy for extra strength. Polystyrene cement has no effect.

Resin should be primed the same as metal or plastic.

It's a bit more fragile than polystyrene so you need to handle models with more care on the tabletop.

I'm writing a load of fiction. My latest story starts here... This is the index of all the stories...

We're not very big on official rules. Rules lead to people looking for loopholes. What's here is about it. 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Pa, USA

50 degrees Celsius = 122 degrees Fahrenheit


Why is it that only those who have never fought in a battle are so eager to be in one? 
   
Made in us
Screaming Shining Spear





Hagerstown, MD

Kilkrazy wrote:It's a bit more fragile than polystyrene so you need to handle models with more care on the tabletop.


It's more fragile than a foam cup?! 0_O**

4500 Points
3500 (1500 painting, using Lizardmen models) http://imgur.com/a/Y28Fw#0
3000 Points of Heralds of Arcadia (Space Marines) 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Pa, USA

Styrofoam --> Styro --> Styrene --> Polystyrene.

Styrofoam is just polystyrene with lots of bubbles

Why is it that only those who have never fought in a battle are so eager to be in one? 
   
Made in us
Screaming Shining Spear





Hagerstown, MD

OK, good to know haha it's safe to spray prime, yes?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/04/27 23:40:55


4500 Points
3500 (1500 painting, using Lizardmen models) http://imgur.com/a/Y28Fw#0
3000 Points of Heralds of Arcadia (Space Marines) 
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Yes. FW themselves recommend a third-party AUTO primer over GW sprays, too (they recommend Halfords branded primers - they're cheaper than GW sprays and will do a better job of providing a good surface for the paint to stick to.)

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

I use Halfords spray all the time now.
If it's FW then occasionally you get a really shiny bit of the model that refuses to clean up & will repel paint.
I know my next advise sometimes causes a bit of outrage (sort of) but I swear that it works & doesn't damage the model - I scub these parts with a brass wire brush.
There I said it - please don't hit me...

Check out my gallery here
Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
Made in us
Screaming Shining Spear





Hagerstown, MD

Ah thanks! I think I'll stick to the toothbrush for now.

4500 Points
3500 (1500 painting, using Lizardmen models) http://imgur.com/a/Y28Fw#0
3000 Points of Heralds of Arcadia (Space Marines) 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: