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hello everyone. I have some dried paint it seems inside my airbrush as I haven't used it in a while and I thought I had cleaned it well enough before storing it.
when I slide the needle in all the way I can feel it sticking a little once I hit the end. the needle comes out the tip fine but I can tell paint is inside causing it to stick. and paint does not want to flow at all. and water barely even shoots out. it kinda just spurts.

so I figured its time to let it soak to try and break all that stuff up. I was thinking of doing a simple green 50/50 mix with water for it to soak in.
you guys think this will be ok? I have no airbrush cleaner and windex doesn't do anything for me at this point.

I have an Iwatta airbrush too fyi.

The simple green will work if you're able to get inside the airbrush and scrub out the dried paint. Ideally, you'd want to use an ultrasonic cleaner in order to agitate the solution dislodge the paint. I was able to clean out my Iwata knockoff soaking it in Simple Green and water and had no issues with it. I wouldn't suggest keeping it in the solution for more than two days, however, or you may risk ruining the finish on the airbrush.

Keep in mind you'll need to reapply a lubricant to all the moving parts after soaking it, so make sure you have some on hand. Avoid spray lubricants as you need to control what gets lubed and what doesn't.

Cleaning:

I've heard such things as SG may be a bit too harsh on the chrome finish on most airbrushes, but I've heard the opposite as well. If you choose to soak your AB in SG for an extended period of time (Over a few hours) I would suggest keeping a very close eye on it. I prefer Clorox Green Works Multipurpose to SG (a bit more kick, environmentally friendly, nicer smell, no ammonia).

Also, I would only soak the parts that have the paint dried in them. On my 105 Patriot, the only place paint usually sticks is in the cup (right around the drain hole) and the tip.

I may suggest getting a few pipe cleaners. If the crappy arts-crafts pipe cleaners aren't your cup-o-tea (they suck, I know) then get to your local outdoors shop and grab a SOFT wire pipe cleaner used for cleaning the barrel of a firearm (take a look at the size of the hole first, even take it along for size comparison). No, this won't work for the tip, but it will work wonders for the rest of the brush. I'm thinking for a size 0.22, but YMMV. Ask the gentleman(woman) at the counter if you're unfamiliar, and then tell them the application.

When I clean my airbrush, I switch back and forth between Windex and rubbing alchohol (I typically only use acrylics). If you like buying in bulk, get a gallon of automotive windshield wiper fluid (plain blue stuff) I think the mix is 1:1 water and fluid, and run that through. Again, YMMV, and do some research so as not to harm your parts. If you're using something a tad harsher than acrylics, then I would use typical nail-polish remover, followed by clean rinses of water (alternate solvent and water).

The ultrasonic cleaner is, in the end, your best bet. Walmart sells 1 for ~$30 that I've heard only positive reviews about, and it will be useful for a great number of things. Combine that with Createx Airbrush Restorer (softens paints for easier cleaning) and you should be polished and golden.

Afterwards, for a lubricant:

Badger: http://www.amazon.com/REGDAB-Airbrush-Lubricant-1-oz/dp/B000BRMYTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337204554&sr=8-1

Iwata:http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Super-Lube-oz/dp/B0039776VC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1337204554&sr=8-2

Nah, it doesn't matter. Personally, I use:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102643#

Works just as well (for me anyway).

Note: I'm no professional, I just did quite a bit of research before purchasing my own airbrush. If I'm going to invest so much money, I would like to keep this tool in perfect condition for as long as possible. Research what I've told you and see what others have said, reviews, specific cleaners, etc.

Please, if I'm incorrect on anything, correct me. I'd hate to be at fault for the destruction of an airbrush, or anything else for that matter.

One thing to remember, don't soak the o-rings. Most cleaners are bad for rubber parts and if your brush's o-rings die you'll need to replace them. I've soaked parts of my Iwata in simple green or 91% ipa before to clean them. As stated, re-oil it after a soak. Also cleaning brushes like these are a big help:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-5-PCS-AIRBRUSH-SPRAY-GUN-TIP-TATTOO-MACHINE-TIP-TUBE-CLEANING-BRUSH-KIT-SET-/220989244333?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3373fc43ad

Thank you everyone for the great replies ;D.

I let my airbrush soak in 50/50 simple green and water that got some of it out. so I shot some super clean through it and that seemed to have gotten the chunks out. it looked like a tiny snake of goo that shot out haha

fenrir1997 wrote:I've heard such things as SG may be a bit too harsh on the chrome finish on most airbrushes, but I've heard the opposite as well.

I can vouch for the former. There was a point where I would leave one of my airbrushes in a 50/50 simple green bath after using it every time I use it, and because I'm forgetful, I would forget it for days at a time. After about a month of this, or 2 weeks in this bath, the chrome on my badger 150 started getting eaten.

I think the bath is fine for a few hours but I would definitely try not to do it for enormous lengths of time.

I have had mixed results on the soaking; my paasche did indeed lose some coloration in the cup, where as my iwata has had no problems what so ever.

However - the advice on the lubricant is very important.

Personally, I use the (iwata?) superlube, but I am sure others work just as well.