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Made in gb
Possessed Khorne Marine Covered in Spikes






I bought a few really good quality brushes (ProArte miniature brushes) that I had recommended to me, but I've only used them a couple of times and the very ends of the brushes have now curled into a small hook shape.
This has happened with all three brushes I bought and it's now ruined them. Is it something I've done wrong and can avoid in the future? I paint with GW paints pretty much exclusively, and use water to wash them out and fluid retarder to thin the paint and thats about it. I don't leave them stood tip down in the water or anything so I'm at a loss as to why they have curled.
Any ideas?

Thanks.

 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

first up let me say "nuarghuagghhgarghhh!!!!" to your profile picture

On topic, i dont really know why that would happen other then leaving them tip down. Hopefully someone can help.

Not sure who recommended them tho, they seem far from ideal for miniature painting to me, no body to the brush to hold paint and synthetic bristles.

Check out rosemary & co series 33 or Winsor and newton series 7 when your looking for replacements.

*edit*

You could try getting some brush soap and seeing if you could reshape them. You should have some anyway, it pays for itself in extending the life of your brushes.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/06/01 21:24:30


 
   
Made in us
Traitor






i have a similar problem, so lets see if we can find a common denominator... how do you dry your brushes? and how do you rinse out the paint? when your painting how paint over large areas? stroke?
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

Seems like this is an issue with synthetic bristles sometimes from my quick google search. Some suggest dipping them into hot water and reshaping, but do that at your own risk!
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator






Utah

Do you ever leave them tip down? Do you use brush soap? Do you wash them after every use? Are they synthetic brushes?

If you don't have some already, get Masters Brush Soap or some form of liquid brush soap. After cleaning try conditioning them and reshaping.


My Armies: 1347 1500 1500
My Necron Nihilakh Dynasty blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/416131.page 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

Taklon brushes easily hook as you are describing. I suggest using sable brushes instead as this doesn't happen to them.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in gb
Possessed Khorne Marine Covered in Spikes






Thank you for the feedback, I always wash & dry my brushes after a painting session, and never dry brush with my good quality stuff, but I must confess I haven't ever used brush soap before.
Its looking like these synthetic brushes may not be as good as I was lead to believe...
Luckily it's my birthday on Sunday so I'll splash out & treat myself to some brush soap and shiny new sable brushes i think!

Any other recommendations of good brushes as well as the rosemary & co series 33 or Winsor and newton series 7 mentioned previously?

 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

I exclusively use the series 33.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

The series 33s are excellent brushes at a fantastic price. The series 7s are only a little bit better, but 3 times the price.

As far as i know, those 2 are the best miniature painting brush brands that are easy to get in the UK. theres other excellent brushes like raphael, but they are harder to find here.

You will want brush soap tho, its the difference between your brush lasting a month and lasting a year.
   
Made in us
Hardened Veteran Guardsman




I am glad for the advice in this thread thank you for directing me to a good source of brushes.
   
Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

I personally love the Raphael 8404 Kolinsky Sable brushes. I have two that I use for just about everything. They hold their point like nothing I've ever seen. I also use The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver. It is glorious!

Masters: http://www.dickblick.com/products/the-masters-brush-cleaner-and-preserver/

Raphael Brushes: http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=29

 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator






Utah

When I was researching brushes I came across this article comparing the Windsor Newton and the Raphaels: http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?36283

It's quite informative.

My Armies: 1347 1500 1500
My Necron Nihilakh Dynasty blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/416131.page 
   
Made in us
Painting Within the Lines





Riverside, CA.

Just picked up an 8404 and I will not use anything alse now. these are better than the series 7 IMO. If you take care of them they wil last you a long time.

The curled tip is pretty comon on the synthetic brisyles. if you rinse your brush often and dont go up past the half way point of the bristle it can delay but not stop this from happening.


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HERE 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

The 8404 Raphaels are very hard to come by in the UK. Given thats where the op is from, they arnt a great choice.
   
Made in gb
Possessed Khorne Marine Covered in Spikes






Thanks a million for all the advice, I love this community!
I'm going to mail order a couple of the series 7s, a couple of the series 33s and the 8404s if I can find them, and see what I get on with the best.
With the cost of the models themselves nowadays I think it's going to be more than worth me spending a bit to find the perfect brush.

Incidentally, how do you guys rate the basic GW brushes?

 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

Dont forget the brush soap!

The gw brushes arnt too bad for the price. They are great for dry brushing, bases or anything anything you dont want to risk damaging your decent brushes on.
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




For the level of abuse I put on them, the Master's Touch line holds up fine for the price. I'm definitely not a golden daemon winner, but they give great results for the price. I do treat them well afterward, though, and I am very meticulous when I am looking at them in the store, as a LOT of the brand new brushes have stray bristles or lost caps and gotten damaged. It's also always advisable to have some cheap brushes around for abuse like overbrushing, drybrushing, and stippling. I'd never pay more than 2 bucks for a brush to do that, which makes this line just fine after they've aged a bit. No rest for the wicked.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Pa, USA

I haven't invested in any nice brushes yet, but I'm about THIS far from doing so. I'm currently using an Army Painter Wargamer "Regiment" brush, and for as much as I take care of it, it still deviates. Only a few months old, and I'm fighting tip curl and oddball strands of the brush wanting to do their own thing..

-Stored standing up (bristle up)
-Paint never gets past the tip really, let alone the ferrule
-Rinsed with water regularly (Room temp)
-Masters Brush Soap regularly (cleaning and reshaping)
-Always put back in its protective tube

So... I'll go out on a limb and say that a quality brush will make the difference for you, me, and anybody else with crap brushes...


This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/06/03 13:51:27


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