Author |
Message |
 |
|
 |
Advert
|
Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
- No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
- Times and dates in your local timezone.
- Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
- Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
- Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now. |
|
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2012/07/08 22:37:32
Subject: Working with metal miniatures
|
 |
Angry Chaos Agitator
|
Hello and Hai, for anyone following me, you'll understand that i paint and work with a lot of GW metal miniatures, from broadsides to thousand sons and Karskins, but here is the question, Without using glaze, (which i personally gives all models a "way to shiny and suddenly cheesy look") how do i protect this models paintwork from rubbing off? As an experiment i have scrubbed with a soapy tooth brush (same as you do with fw resin) and left it raw, neither really help in stopping the problem at hand this also included base coating and slapping the paint straight on for both washed and unwashed. Any advice on the prevention the accidental removal of paint? p.s. I have noticed washes tend to hold the detail together better but does nothing to protect edges (obviously so) Also, i have noticed when filing down the metal, (pewter?) it cacks up my files, is there anyway to clean this effectively or efficiently without taking a wire brush to them?
|
This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2012/07/08 22:51:04
Remember when it comes to 40k Fluff
[Sing]
If you are wondering how he eats and breaths
And other science facts....
Just repeat to yourself; "It's just a show".
"I should really just relax".
[/Sing]
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2012/07/08 22:41:46
Subject: Working with metal miniatures
|
 |
Dakka Veteran
|
I brush and airbrush vallejo matt varnish with near stellar results. (only tips of spears/swords ever chip, which is not as bad because they are painted metallic anyway)
|
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/08 22:42:00
Current Armies: Chaos Space Marines(Building), Orks(Completed), Vanilla Marines(Near Completion), Trollbloods(Completed), Axony (Building)
"Nobody ever defended anything successfully, there is only attack and attack and attack some more."
George S. Patton
“Courage isn't having the strength to go on - it is going on when you don't have strength.”
― Napoleon Bonaparte |
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2012/07/08 22:42:54
Subject: Working with metal miniatures
|
 |
Regular Dakkanaut
|
Wait... What?
Your question doesn't make any sense.
You want something to seal your models that's not a glaze?
Okay...? First off, Glazes aren't designed to seal models. That's what SEALS are for. 'Ard Coat, Purity Seal ETC.
Also, why on earth would you want to take a soapy tooth-brush to a model just to test its seal? That's a tad extreme, considering the most you'll be doing is handling it with your fingers.
Please re-phrase the question and make yourself clear.
|
Flinty wrote:You could always just strap SPACE MARINES to the arms and SPACE MARINE the SPACE MARINES!!1!1111 |
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2012/07/08 22:57:33
Subject: Working with metal miniatures
|
 |
Angry Chaos Agitator
|
Igloo wrote:I brush and airbrush vallejo matt varnish with near stellar results. (only tips of spears/swords ever chip, which is not as bad because they are painted metallic anyway)
thanks, i think my friend recently got some matt varnish, ill try and nab some for to try, thanks!
&
Brother Axel wrote:Wait... What?
Your question doesn't make any sense.
You want something to seal your models that's not a glaze?
Okay...? First off, Glazes aren't designed to seal models. That's what SEALS are for. 'Ard Coat, Purity Seal ETC.
Also, why on earth would you want to take a soapy tooth-brush to a model just to test its seal? That's a tad extreme, considering the most you'll be doing is handling it with your fingers.
Please re-phrase the question and make yourself clear.
the question is about a viable way to help prevent excessive ware and tear so i don't need to spend hours each week fixing bits which have rubbed or peeled off during play, i understand perfectly well about the ware and tear, im just asking whether or not people have found a way without using glaze to make there paint jobs more resilient without ruining there paint job on metal minis
|
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/08 23:00:09
Remember when it comes to 40k Fluff
[Sing]
If you are wondering how he eats and breaths
And other science facts....
Just repeat to yourself; "It's just a show".
"I should really just relax".
[/Sing]
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2012/07/08 23:32:09
Subject: Working with metal miniatures
|
 |
Regular Dakkanaut
|
Okay, that's cool.
As I said, glazes aren't designed to protect paint.
You need to try seals, as I mentioned above.
'Ard Coat from GW gives a shiny looking gloss coat.
Purity Seal gives a satin gloss coat. Other than that, I don't understand how you'd need to keep touching up your paint jobs so often, regardless of the material. Take care of your minis, and they'll take care of you.
|
Flinty wrote:You could always just strap SPACE MARINES to the arms and SPACE MARINE the SPACE MARINES!!1!1111 |
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2012/07/09 00:28:36
Subject: Working with metal miniatures
|
 |
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard
|
How to stop the paint rubbing off? For playing pieces, the following steps are good.
First: PRIME the model. With a decent primer. I've found GW's chaos black spray to rub off the metal, so I use an automotive metal primer. It stays on.
AFTER painting, VARNISH the sucker. GLOSS varnish.
If it's "too shiny", hit it now with a MATT varnish.
I've got models painted like this going back 15 years and they still have ALL of their paint on them.
For display pieces, matt varnish and lock them in a cupboard. Only a masochist plays with display-grade pieces (as the paint WILL rub off and chip, and you WILL have to repaint them if you use them. Fingerprints aren't as smooth as you think, and the oils from your skin will soak through the paints over time )
|
I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.
That is not dead which can eternal lie ...
... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2012/07/09 07:24:35
Subject: Working with metal miniatures
|
 |
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine
|
@chromedog
i thought gloss and matte varnish didnt really differ in "hardness"
the only reason i can think off why you wanna gloss first and then use a matte, is that when the gloss starts to show you know its time for a new coat of matte varnish
|
|
|
 |
 |
|