Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Shook the can for around 60 seconds, at standard room temperature and it's fogged up my model -_-

So, two questions:

1. How do I unfog? EDIT: Nevermind, I salvaged it with a bit of quick thinking. But my 2nd question remains.


2. Why did it fog in the first place?

Thanks -.-

because it's a worthless product.

Always research the product you buy. you will find countless complaints against purity seal. you can get better stuff for less elsewhere.

Airbrush + Vallejo Satin Varinish.. makes things look super sexy.

Horst wrote:Airbrush + Vallejo Satin Varinish.. makes things look super sexy.

I second this! It really shines when varnishing anything with lots of metallic paints (I looking at you, Grey Knights...).

Sorry for sounding noobish, but what do you mean by fogging up?

Clumpski wrote:Sorry for sounding noobish, but what do you mean by fogging up?

I think he's referring to how when spraying purity seal on your model, if you spray it in less than ideal temperature / humidity, it can result in a "powdery" type of finish on the model. It looks really crappy. I actually ruined a model like this once. Then a few MONTHS after I thought I ruined it, I realized I could fix it by just finishing it again in ideal temperatures this time. Sprayed it again and "fixed" it.

ahh i understand now, thank you x.x my 1ksons suffered with this when i was spraying the torso, thankfully only 2 where ruined soon fixed

Some guy in my gaming group fogged up a unit of 20 Necrons then decided to immediately spray prime them black again, still in humid weather. Ugh. Just spray the model again with gloss varnish; it eats away at the previous varnish and leaves a clean new shine. Then do it over with a few coats of matte varnish to dull the shine and give it more durability. I recommend Testors Dullcote and Gloss Coat. Great products, available everywhere.

Brother SRM wrote:Some guy in my gaming group fogged up a unit of 20 Necrons then decided to immediately spray prime them black again, still in humid weather. Ugh. Just spray the model again with gloss varnish; it eats away at the previous varnish and leaves a clean new shine. Then do it over with a few coats of matte varnish to dull the shine and give it more durability. I recommend Testors Dullcote and Gloss Coat. Great products, available everywhere.

Brother SRM is 100% right. Around my gaming club, we call it "frosting" a model, since when matte varnish goes bad, it looks like cinnamon roll iceing on a model. what you can do is hit it with a very light coat of Testors Gloss Varnish. Once it dries, hit it with 2 light coats of Testors matte varnish.

We all work really hard to make our models look good, and you gotta protect them. if there is one thing you shouldn't skimp on, its your varnish. you can never go wrong with Testors basecoat spray's and varnishes.

Good gaming

Gunnvulcan

You may wish to read this article for future reference.

Anything GW sells in a spray can is utter garbage. $15 for a can of primer?

A 200ml bottle of Vallejo Polyurethane Surface Primer is about $13, and will prime hundreds of models, with no chance of screwing up your models. Granted you need an airbrush for it, but any old cheap one will work well enough for priming.

Then use something like Vallejo or Liquitex Matte or Satin Varnish in that same airbrush. You can do several thin layers, and again pretty much no chance of screwing up your models.

Proper tabletop varnishing is to do a single layer of gloss coat first then do satin or matte. Gloss varnish protects better and lasts longer. Once your models stop being flat and start looking shiny, then you just lay on another layer of matte varnish.

Is it actually primer though? I thought it was more or less just black or white paint.

Aerethan wrote:Anything GW sells in a spray can is utter garbage. $15 for a can of primer?

A 200ml bottle of Vallejo Polyurethane Surface Primer is about $13, and will prime hundreds of models, with no chance of screwing up your models. Granted you need an airbrush for it, but any old cheap one will work well enough for priming.

Then use something like Vallejo or Liquitex Matte or Satin Varnish in that same airbrush. You can do several thin layers, and again pretty much no chance of screwing up your models.

Proper tabletop varnishing is to do a single layer of gloss coat first then do satin or matte. Gloss varnish protects better and lasts longer. Once your models stop being flat and start looking shiny, then you just lay on another layer of matte varnish.

QFT. I like Windsor & Newton varnishes, which I thin for airbrushing, but these can equally well be painted on, albeit with a much slower dry time. Purity seal is possibly the most unreliable rattlecan I've ever had the misfortune to use.

Edit: The Vallejo Surface primer is a polyurethane skin; behaves very much like gesso. It doesn't have a solvent base so there's no 'bite' as such. There's almost no grain to it at all though; very smooth.

n0t_u wrote:Is it actually primer though? I thought it was more or less just black or white paint.

Thats all primer is...

I never understood the need to use an actual primer vs a paint. The only difference I saw was that primer supposedly covers better.

Its one of the reasons I like using an airbrush over brush painting... I can "prime" a model with any color I want, just mix in some satin varnish on the basecoat, and boom, its a pretty durable base to work off of.

Horst; no, in terms of purpse a primer is all about adhesion rather than colour. A 'proper' primer is simply a paint that has good adhesion to an unpainted surface and that provides some sort of benefit to subsequent layers. I guess your mixing in varnish provides this benefit, sort of a mix-your-own primer. Interesting trick. What satin varnish are you using?

Vallejo Polyurethane primers are offered in a rather large range of colors, many of which are military primer colors like German Panzer Grey.

I use primarily grey for priming these days as it's a nice compromise between the benefits of both white and black. The only real caveat with it is that it is sometimes the same color as GW bare plastic, so you have to remember what you already primed.