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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




So this is my first attempt at a Killa Kan (1 down 8 to go) it is still a WIP so I will be adding more paint and touching up some of the rough areas. It was also my fist attempt at doing the checkerboard on a bigger area and I think I failed miserably but learned quite a bit. The model was primed black so I did white checkers on top when I probably should have based it in white and added black checkers. It took so many white coats to cover the black that the checkers started to grow and screw up the pattern. I also tried to do a lot of edge weathering and wear along with some battle damage, I think this part came out pretty decent for my first attempt but would welcome any helpful suggestions.

Anyhow here is a link to the gallery, thanks in advance for the help.

http://imgur.com/a/cTjF3#0

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/12 14:48:05


 
   
Made in gb
Swift Swooping Hawk





England, Sunderland, Hetton-Le-Hole

Tips; When painting white over black always thin the white. But before you even paint the white paint the area grey first. Its dark enough to easily go over the black and light enough for white to go over it easily.

The black body still looks unfinished add some edge highlights using grey as it simply looks well black as it stands with the odd silver weathering bit. The feet especially still look just primed. the red however you have done well. Its a nice smooth coat and weathered enough to be nice and orky.

Overall it isnt bad just add highlights to the black and it will look a whole lot better it will make the model look a lot better and stand out a lot more.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/12 22:11:59


 
   
Made in us
Disassembled Parts Inside a Talos






A great first entry, welcome to the hobby! That being said, the black portions look they've been only primed black. A simple drybrush of 50/50 boltgun metal and black, followed by a pure boltgun drybrush to highlight would really make those detains pop. Washes are also invaluable in that respect.

As for the checkerboards on black, I usually basecoat with a dark grey, moving to a lighter grey, then finally the white (all in very thin coats of course). Took me forever to get checkers right

Like Redkeyboard said, it's not bad, but a few touches in some areas will make all the difference. Happy painting!

 
   
Made in de
Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






Ingelheim am Rhein, Germany

Hey sentinent, welcome to the hobby!

The kan looks ok for a first attempt, I'll just toss in my two cents:
Yes you're right, you shouldn't paint white over black. Always do the darker color second.
The metal, while neatly applied, looks too flat. Put a black wash on it, or drybrush it next time.
The gold looks like it has been applied directly to the black undercoat, which doesn't always turn out good. It's way easier if you base the to-be-gold parts with some bright brown or dark yellow. That way, if the gold doesn't cover properly, it'll still look alright

Have a look at this thread, it's full of good advice for painters!
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/416755.page

btw. You'll get more attention if you put the picture into your post, because people are damn lazy and don't always click on links.....


LOOK!! a shameless self-promotion! (gasp!)
My ORK!-Blog here on dakka And if you need a good conversion or a paintjob... My commission blog

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Looking for Painting & Modelling advice? Click here! 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




redkeyboard wrote:Tips; When painting white over black always thin the white. But before you even paint the white paint the area grey first. Its dark enough to easily go over the black and light enough for white to go over it easily.


Redkeyboard, thanks for the tips and compliments, I will most definitely have to pick up a grey and start doing this before I do my checkers from now on.


Rifos wrote: That being said, the black portions look they've been only primed black. A simple dry brush of 50/50 boltgun metal and black, followed by a pure boltgun dry brush to highlight would really make those detains pop. Washes are also invaluable in that respect.


Rifos, that is a great idea, I will go back and do a mix of the boltgun and black to do a dry brush, I have been wondering how to highlight the areas I leave black. I have never highlighted besides some basic dry brushing but I think this idea will help allot. Thanks!

MrMerlin wrote: The metal, while neatly applied, looks too flat. Put a black wash on it, or drybrush it next time.
The gold looks like it has been applied directly to the black undercoat, which doesn't always turn out good. It's way easier if you base the to-be-gold parts with some bright brown or dark yellow. That way, if the gold doesn't cover properly, it'll still look alright


Great advice here also. I did was most of the model with a brown as I did not have a black so I will have to add a black wash to my list. I will also start putting down the light brown on the bigger bronze areas I do as I have noticed that under certain angles you can see through it to the black base coat, good call.


Thanks for all the help guys I have learned some tips that I will most definitely apply to this model, I will post back with some pictures after I have had some time to try these suggestions out.
   
Made in us
Boosting Space Marine Biker





Decatur, IL

Don't forget to drill out your gun barrel. Otherwise not bad looking, just do what was suggested above and you'll have a good start to your army.

 
   
 
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