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Made in gb
Sniping Hexa





SW UK

Recently I have been going through the ordeal of first time paint stripping (Im using "Detol" btw, it works well bet stinks up everything). Although doubtless the stripping works better on metal models, plastics dont tend to be too bad. However I have noticed that on only a few plastic (and not metal) models, I occasionally get a black, sticky layer. Would anyone happen to know why this is?

In addition I have found while paint stripping my old Tau that on gun drones the right, and ONLY the right pulse carbine seems to break off. Does anybody else find this?

As for painting I seem to have difficulty painting both white and red. Both paints are rather thick, meaning thinning is a necessity however if I thin it to the "acceptable" level, it simply seems to slide off the model like a thick wash. This problem is preventing me from using multiple layers as is advised (although I have NEVER found a way to do this without making the paint look horribly thick). Is there any way to rectify these problems?

Inquisitor_Syphonious wrote:All I can say is... thank you vodo40k...

Zweischneid wrote:No way man. A Space Marine in itself is scary. But a Marine WITHOUT helmet wears at least 3-times as much plot-armour as a Marine with helmet. And heaven forbid if the Marine would also happen to have an intimidating looking, vertical scar. Then you're surly boned. Those guys are the worst. Not a chance I'd say.

 
   
Made in gb
Neophyte Undergoing Surgeries






Northamptonshire

Hey,

I recently stripped an entire 3.5k army of marines, and it was largely hit and miss, due to not knowing what I was doing. What I've picked up from it is that the introduction of water into the mix really messes with the stripping effect: Instead of lifting the paint off, it returns the paint to some of its previous consistency, and essentially repaints it back on. Hopefully that made sense, it really isn't nice. To avoid it, don't introduce water AT ALL, not even to clean the brush (or whichever tool you are using).
For the models with the layer, it's best to let them dry and then re-bath them in a fresh solution.

Also, it does niggle away at glue that is either weak, or doesn't have enough to keep the bond strong on the model. Just reglue it.

Never been able to paint white myself, so I can't help on that. GL.

--> Grayspear

Ashen Hunters Chapter: 3.5k points
Tau S'Yeth Sept: 1.5k points

*Gestures at Heavy Bolter* - "A round from this, and running away is a thing of the past..." 
   
Made in us
Boosting Black Templar Biker





I find that after the first round of normal stripping, using common rubbing alcohol ( i use 91% ) will dissolve whatever remains. Works very food on that last level of primer and those hard to get at spots. I just dip my scrub brush in alcohol and start scrubbing.

As far as white and red, ignore the acceptable level and do some trial and error to find how thin is just right for the paint you are using. It sounds like your over thinning your paint. Ive had old results so far with the new citadel ceramics white base paint. Try that too.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/17 23:47:49


 
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

That's the problem with certain paint pigments. It's also common to yellow.

If they are applied too heavily, they look chalky but if you apply too thin, they don't hold.

It's always been an issue with white. It has always required a multitude of layered coats to get a uniform colour. Or else it ends up looking like a three year old applied poster paints with the aid of a trowel.

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
 
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