Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

So I decided to make my own transfers, got the special paper, chemicals. I printed the sheet out, so far no problems. But when I applied the solution onto them it has made them all crease up. I followed the instructions(there were very few) and am baffled why this has happened! As a test I tried out one of the offending transfers hoping the solution for flattening them out would help but it has not worked very well either. So can somebody tell me what I've did wrong?

It has worked fine when I did mine. I used laser paper, if that makes any difference. Obviously I had a laser printer. I didn't have to use any special solutions, though I did use Microsol and Microset.

More info please. What make/brand materials did you use? Please list everything.

Yes, more info.

You should varnish the decals before applying (Future / Klear or other GLOSS acrylic). Two light coats by airbrush is what I do, if you don't have an ab, then you need to brush it on THINLY and quickly. Hang the decal paper up to dry in a dust free environment.

When applying MicroSol, the decal does crinkle; it's supposed to. I have a good tutorial with plenty of closeups of the process here:

http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf

Several applications are normally needed.

I keep a brush handy to gently smooth out the wrinkles. I also use warm water to get the transfer ready.

Thanks for the replies so far guys, here is the information on the paper/chemicals;

Experts-choice decal paper from The Bare Metal Foil co, Farmington MI. Inkjet clear transfer paper.
Liquid decal film, Micro set,Micro flat,Micro sol All by Microscale industries.

After typing that lot I realise it might be the wrong solutions for the paper. The place I bought them from are usually very good and have the paper and these solutions pictured and listed on the same page of their catalogue, implying that there are no problems with using them together.

Yeah those should all be fine - the liquid film takes the place of the varnishing of the decals I mentioned earlier. Exactly what is the issue you're having?

They will crinkle up a bit, especially on space marine shoulder pads. Coat them again with Micro sol and let them dry completely. Repeat until flat. If you have a bubble here or there, use a new xacto blade and cut a hole in the bubble, then Micro Sol again.

I would like to make my own transfers (I just made a topic about it and then found this - opps!)

Would someone please be kind enough to let me know what I would need and how to do it?

Depends on what you're planning.

Most printers available cannot print white, so complex white designs are best avoided.

I print pretty much all my decals on clear paper in black or red. If I need white, I'll print a guide decal which I'll paint over before applying the next. A good example are the Imperial Fist icons used in the tutorial I linked earlier.

If I need white text, I'll get the decal printed for me by someone who has a printer that will print white (ALPS or some laser sublimation ones). ALPS printers are becoming rare (and the ink / toner cassettes for them rarer still). It's getting to the point where if you need a lot doing, it's worth seeing if you can get your design done by a screen printing place.

Anyway, you'll want a vernier caliper for measuring target area size, decal paper (white or clear, appropriate type for your printer - laser or inkjet), and some sort of sealant / liquid decal film to apply over the print job to seal it on are all you really need. It's worth remembering that colour variants (other than 'pure' red and black) are printed by stippling. You should avoid this by reducing your source image to 3 colours or less. Design your image at high resolution (I use paintshop pro) and then reduce to the best resolution your printer can handle, based on the target size you measured earler.

Warning: It is NOT wise to use inkjet paper or film in a laser printer. There is a possibility of the heat from the laser melting the film and really buggering up your printer. This is not a fun thing to happen, trust me on that.

Now, sealing laser printed decals isn't as necessary as inkjet (though it's still wise). Inkjet printer ink is water soluble, so you need to ensure as little water as possible ever comes into contact with it; seal it with at least 2 coats of varnish / decal film, and use a wet pallette to soak the paper when applying rather than immersing the decal. Again, the tutorial I linked above covers the application process in paintstaking detail.

Thanks for your reply thats great! I'll have to research this a bit more I think though. Either that or rope my friend in who knows more about this than me!

I've got a few posts covering decals (transfers)

From how to make your own (to include the exact process I went through... and it's easier than you think) to how I went about applying them so they look as though they are painted on.
There's also a post that outlines a few things you should keep in mind when using decals.

http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/search/label/decals

Hope these help,
Ron