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Made in ee
Guarding Guardian




Hey,

I'm a novice hobbyist and I figured that I'd ask the people of Dakka before proceeding to paint some minis - in particular, Eldar Dire Avengers.

My question is that, with all the detail they have and how it's very easy to mess up a paint job, do you assemble your models entirely before painting?
   
Made in us
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon





Memphis, TN

Heya! Welcome to 40k and Dakka!

I would recommend assembling your minis up to a level that you feel comfortable. For example.

I usually paint heads and arms separate and then glue them on afterward.

Some may do it differently.

Check out this comp!http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/498307.page
My P&M Blog:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/497661.page
2500 Brothers of Sanguinor
2500 Purifiers
750 : Bad Wolves

2 successful trades: TemplarCoyote, blood angel

P.M. for a reference! K.C.C.O.! 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Level of assembly before painting depends on the particular model. I tend to leave parts off for convenience, beyond simple (what I'd consider) necessity. For example, AoBR ork slugga boys don't really have inaccessible areas - the sculpt is pretty open and their weapons don't cross the chest - but after painting a number, I decided to leave off their loose arm and head for easier access. Not necessary, but it speeds up the process. For marines, I leave off bolters, shoulder pads, and backpacks; the former I'd consider necessary (to get at the aquila), the latter two a point of convenience.

If you just basecoat>wash>block highlight (or your equivalent method that gets you to that level) before assembly, there's very little to mess up with a less than pristine glue job and mistakes are easy to correct. Reserving the final highlights for after final assembly lets you keep your light source consistent and account for occlusion, plus you no longer need access to recesses, as those areas are in shadow.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in ee
Guarding Guardian




Alright, thank you. But, is there any way I can make washes of my own? I'm a little bit disadvantaged with hobby supply access, as my homeland isn't really 40k supportive(I get all my things through Maelstrom).

And another question I have is, that since I'm using a brush-on Vallejo polyethurane primer due to sprays not being shippable and not having a citadel spray gun, the primer tends to gather up most in recesses and around gems, which makes me constantly go back and attempt to divide the primer. So how do I avoid botching undercoating and make it go evenly? Or is it just expected, and should just keep adding layers of undercoat?
   
Made in us
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon





Memphis, TN

Does Estonia allow the sale of rubbing alchohol? I use that to cut down brush on primer and it makes it hug the recesses. As far as washes go, I would encourage you to cut the paint so that it looks a like colored water. This is as about as close to washes as you will get.

Check out this comp!http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/498307.page
My P&M Blog:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/497661.page
2500 Brothers of Sanguinor
2500 Purifiers
750 : Bad Wolves

2 successful trades: TemplarCoyote, blood angel

P.M. for a reference! K.C.C.O.! 
   
Made in ee
Guarding Guardian




I think we do, I'm not too sure. I'd have to check up on it. Thanks for the information!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Double post in order to bump:
So, I drilled holes into my Dire Avengers bodyparts. Any advice on how I can fasten them to the little brass wire stand I've made? Maybe some softer glue so the brush doesn't move them around? Or how do you lot mount your parts.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/27 18:39:59


 
   
Made in gb
Screaming Banshee






Cardiff, United Kingdom

I just water down normal GW paints...

   
Made in se
Regular Dakkanaut






If push comes to shove, just paint straight on the plastic. Primer/basecoat is advised mostly, but most of my earlier gaming minis were done without any basecoat whatsoever, and have held up fine through 10+ years of gaming.

Personally I assemble torso + legs, and smaller bits on those two if I feel comfortable with it. Arms, weapon, heads are painted separately. It really depends on what you're comfortable with. I used to paint everything separately way back when, but have gotten comfy with assembled stuff.

If you drill into bits and don't have a very snugly fitting pinning wire, then a tiny bit of superglue should do, or plastic glue. Otherwise you can try glueing bits onto a long piece of sprue, with regular plastic glue. They'll melt together but if you pick a good spot to glue onto, something that won't show once assembled or something you're comfortable filing down, it's fine.
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Nottingham, UK

The vallejo primer is best airbrushed on. Try everythingairbrush.com for cheap sets with compressors, or look around your local model shops / hobby supplies. Don't get the GW spraygun, it's utter rubbish.

 
   
Made in ee
Guarding Guardian




Thanks, guys. I really appreciate the input.
   
 
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