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Has anyone used any alternative flight stem method for their GW flyers?

I have three orky bommas waiting to be based but don't want to go with the stock flight stand as it is too static and I am seeing issues on occassion with placing planes that a little freedom to bank/change elevation would solve. A slight tilt can mean the difference between placing a bomma with no issue or having it scraping terrain or wobbling...

In particular I am hoping to have ball magnets at the top so I can tilt/bankflyers for those times when it would make placing them easier. Telescoping rod would also be fun. Both of these would facilitate the slight control needed to solve occassional placement problems (and allow for soem cinematic photos... )

anyone done anything like this and have pics and/or have links to products used?

I can definitely see the appeal of making the fliers look less static and more dynamic but the banking seems like a grey area and a change in elevation seems like pretty straightforward modelling for advantage.

They make telescoping flight stands with a ball joint on the top - should solve all your issues. I haven't looked to see what sizes are available, but I have seen similar setups for everything up to supporting speakers which should be able to handle the weight without too much of a problem.

Going higher shouldn't create an advantage (other than actually allowing it to be on the table). If anything - it would open it up to more fire lines.

Oakenshield wrote:I can definitely see the appeal of making the fliers look less static and more dynamic but the banking seems like a grey area and a change in elevation seems like pretty straightforward modelling for advantage.

You are completely missing the point.

The ability to tilt/bank the flyer allows you to keep it level (for example) even when the base is not: say the movement of the bomma requires the base to end on a hillside or sloped terrain; now you can swivel the flyer and keep it level even though the base is not level.

I am making it possible to keep the flyer as level as possible in all situations, etc.

So I am actually doing the opposite of what you are suggesting.

The telescopic rotating stand seems like a good idea to me.

Any links for the telescoping stand with the top ball joint? I would like to know if they could handle the weight of a stormraven also.

Interesting idea, I've used spherical ball joint bearings for things in the past but have never heard of spherical magnetic ball joints. Looks like you can get them plenty strong enough for your needs, just have to pick the right size...

http://www.tmcmagnetics.com/ball_joint_assembly.html

I assume the measurements are in millimetres, in which case an 8 or 10mm joint should be sufficient. No idea how much they cost though.

There are a lot of stands out there for this....in a very small scale.
(google telescoping flight stands).

Most of them would not work as they are for small size models, and not a big plane....you might find some.

I think you could use two counter sunk magnets (one on the plane, one on the stand) and a large ball magnet (or maybe just a large ball bearing) between them.

Best of luck!

mjl7atlas wrote:Any links for the telescoping stand with the top ball joint? I would like to know if they could handle the weight of a stormraven also.

Corsec's Omnistand is probably the most common - not sure on the weight limit for that though.

Personally - I would do my own instead though. Couple of cup washers - the retractable antenna from a 1980s era car - a spherical rare earth magnet - a bit of MDF - some miscellaneous screws...

Attach the antenna to your MDF slab with a through screw. Attach one cup washer to the top of the antenna. Attach the second cup washer to the bottom of your model (find the center of gravity for increased stability). Plop the magnet on top of the antenna and set the vehicle on top of that. Even a small rare earth sphere magnet can handle several pounds (I have some which are 1/4" and rated at 3 lbs). The antennas are able to withstand substantial abuse as well. The weak spots would be the connections between the antenna and the base and the top cup and the antenna. If you use 3/4" long screws which fit in the hollow tube and epoxy them in place though - they should be able to handle the weight of resin vehicles without a problem.

You could add a second cup-magnet-cup at the bottom of the antenna too in order to allow the shaft to be plumb when going over slanted terrain - otherwise it will be angled to match the slope which may put the CG outside the base and cause it to topple over.

Barring that - wander on over to a discounter and take a look at what they have to offer in the lines of adjustable camera tripods and the like. It would be bulkier than the antenna option but most are full range of motion and would work the part.

Sean_OBrien wrote:

mjl7atlas wrote:Any links for the telescoping stand with the top ball joint? I would like to know if they could handle the weight of a stormraven also.

Corsec's Omnistand is probably the most common - not sure on the weight limit for that though.

Personally - I would do my own instead though. Couple of cup washers - the retractable antenna from a 1980s era car - a spherical rare earth magnet - a bit of MDF - some miscellaneous screws...

Attach the antenna to your MDF slab with a through screw. Attach one cup washer to the top of the antenna. Attach the second cup washer to the bottom of your model (find the center of gravity for increased stability). Plop the magnet on top of the antenna and set the vehicle on top of that. Even a small rare earth sphere magnet can handle several pounds (I have some which are 1/4" and rated at 3 lbs). The antennas are able to withstand substantial abuse as well. The weak spots would be the connections between the antenna and the base and the top cup and the antenna. If you use 3/4" long screws which fit in the hollow tube and epoxy them in place though - they should be able to handle the weight of resin vehicles without a problem.

You could add a second cup-magnet-cup at the bottom of the antenna too in order to allow the shaft to be plumb when going over slanted terrain - otherwise it will be angled to match the slope which may put the CG outside the base and cause it to topple over.

Barring that - wander on over to a discounter and take a look at what they have to offer in the lines of adjustable camera tripods and the like. It would be bulkier than the antenna option but most are full range of motion and would work the part.

some great ideas here.

Thanks.