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Made in us
Grovelin' Grot




Ive been trying to figure out whats the best way to remove mold lines on models. Ive been using automotive files; which are too big in most instances.. if files are the best thing, does anyone know where i can get a small set of them? thanks for your help..

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/28 03:21:43


some of uz may be flufy but we for sure can stomp ya and anyone who getz in ar way.. because we orks and we krump stuf up. 
   
Made in ca
Enigmatic Chaos Sorcerer





British Columbia

I just scrape them off with a modeling knife. It sucks, I miss the innocent days when I didn't care about them.

 BlaxicanX wrote:
A young business man named Tom Kirby, who was a pupil of mine until he turned greedy, helped the capitalists hunt down and destroy the wargamers. He betrayed and murdered Games Workshop.


 
   
Made in au
Mighty Chosen Warrior of Chaos





Australia

I use the GW ones, although I haven't seen them on the site recently so I'm not sure if they still make them. They're nice and small, but you could probably find some hobby files elsewhere for cheaper.

I find I use a modelling knife to remove the majority of mold lines (on plastic), using the files only when the line is in a hard to reach spot. The trick is to hold the blade at a 45 degree angle to the model and drag the blade across the line.

Harry, I'm going to let you in on a little secret. Every day, once a day, give yourself a present. Don't plan it. Don't wait for it. Just let it happen. It could be a new shirt at the men's store, a catnap in your office chair, or two cups of good, hot black coffee.  
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Metal, plastic, resin...one of the funky restic hybrids?

Plastic and resin - I use a sharp knife. Restic varies depending on its properties but normally a knife.

Metal gets the file treatment.

http://www.micromark.com/12-piece-swiss-pattern-needle-file-set,6787.html

http://www.widgetsupply.com/product/BCU22.html

Cut files or diamond files work well enough. Much cheaper than GW and you get a variety of shapes to deal with the different curves and what not.

If I am feeling in the mood - I will also use jeweler's points in a rotary tool. Should be able to find those at either of the sites that I linked to above. Of course issues with shipping may apply...but once you know what you are looking for - you should be able to find them in your neck of the woods.
   
Made in ca
Hardened Veteran Guardsman




Canada

Cheap alternative, the back of most hobby knife blades.

The GW mold scraping tool is simply a sharp 90 degree edge. Most hobbie knife blades will have the same edge so you just scrape it across the length of the mold line and it takes off the raised plastic.

I tend to like the GW scraper as it won't vibrate leaving a rough finish like thin hobby knife blades do sometimes.
   
Made in us
Grovelin' Grot




thanks for the info guys..

some of uz may be flufy but we for sure can stomp ya and anyone who getz in ar way.. because we orks and we krump stuf up. 
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





dead account

I forgot where I got my files... they came in a set of maybe 5 or 6 but I only use two of them. One is round and comes to a dull point. That one I use a lot. The other is just a flat rectangular type for edges and corners. Both have red rubber handles. I mostly use them for metal stuff.

For plastic I mostly use a hobby knife.

I have yet to work with resin so can't tell you too much about that.

In the end I don't bother with mold lines unless its like big pieces of flash or vent.
   
Made in ca
Hardened Veteran Guardsman




Canada

Resin is just softer plastic that comes with "bubble" defects that you use superglue instead of liquid/plastic cement.
   
Made in us
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Typically just use the back of a hobby knife, orientate it at a 45 degree angle and scrape the mould lines away. If it's in a particularly hard spot to reach I'll use the sharp side of the blade.

I bought a hobby scalpel set which has a range of blade shapes and sizes, so for the most part I use the back of the scalpel and for tricky mould lines I'll flip through the scalpel set and find one the appropriate shape and remove it with the sharp side rather than the back side.

You can just use the sharp side for all the lines, but it's unnecessary for most lines and will tend to blunt the blade if you use it in a scraping fashion.

For metal models sometimes I use a small file, but mostly just stick to knives.

I absolutely hate mould lines, when I'm trying to speed paint an army often I can get the "painting" step down quite fast but the mould lines always take me ages.
   
Made in ca
Enigmatic Chaos Sorcerer





British Columbia

Yeah mold lines are the single biggest reason assembly is by far my least enjoyed aspect of this hobby. (conversions being the exception)

 BlaxicanX wrote:
A young business man named Tom Kirby, who was a pupil of mine until he turned greedy, helped the capitalists hunt down and destroy the wargamers. He betrayed and murdered Games Workshop.


 
   
Made in us
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Someone needs to start a commission model assembly and mould line removal service, I'd pay for that As awesome as professionally painted models look, I like painting my own models... it's the damn assembly that I hate and would pay for someone to do it for me
   
Made in us
Boosting Space Marine Biker





Las Vegas

Check out harborfreight.com. I picked up a pack of 10 diamond files of different shapes for less than 10 dollars. Brush them clean of filings occasionally and they will last...well, probably a lifetime.

"If A is a success in life, then A equals x plus y plus z. Work is x; y is play; and z is keeping your mouth shut." - Albert Einstein 
   
Made in us
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Peredyne wrote:Check out harborfreight.com. I picked up a pack of 10 diamond files of different shapes for less than 10 dollars. Brush them clean of filings occasionally and they will last...well, probably a lifetime.


Do people actually find files quicker than using a knife? I know I've tried files and sandpaper and mystical juju beans and always end up going back to the knife because it's quickest.
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






I'm a big fan of the X-Acto blade for most mold line removal.
Especially for plastic and resin. That being said, I do have a file and use that on metal models and larger resin pieces with offset joints.

http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2010/10/cleaning-mold-lines.html

Like some others said though, the speed at which you can clean them off with the knife is hard to beat.
And I find that files can leave unwanted surface texture sometimes.

When people ask me, "How do you build your army?"
I tell them its "The ten-zero factor, coolness ten, combat effectiveness... zero."

Founder, From the Warp
A blog dedicated to modeling and painting in the 40k universe 
   
 
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