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Ello.
I am in the market for an airbrush, was wondering if anyone uses this, and if so what their review of it was. I'm looking at an hp-cs eclipse from iwata, but the colani is drawing me, I like the different design, also the fact that the paint will never actuate without the trigger already partially in, pushing air. Anyone have thoughts on this things use? I'm fairly new to airbrushing so I don't think relearning the handling style will be much different for me.

Thanks for your input!

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/coloni.html

Wowzers, she's not cheap....

May I ask where the .2mm nozzle accessory is? I can't find it listed..

HS stuff is good, but not cheap... I've used paasche stuff and was not impressed at all, iwata is good, but again, not cheap, but badger I feel really reverses the odds of better value and bulletproof gear, never had a problem (uses a Krome at present, does everything I need it too and more no doubt).

If money is no object, HS is good gear, but I cannot comment on the colani specifically I'm sorry...

0.2 would be a pain to use tho.. So many passes with very thin media... For modeling, is it overkill?

http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=HAR+124643

My thinking is, do the base/highlighting with .4, touchups/detail with .2. Of course, maybe I've been at sea too long and I'm going crazy.

I have a hb evo with a .15 and a .2 nozzle. Not sure why you should take this one over the evo. Seems expensive

Ffffwwwaaarrrr... $50 for a needle? Geez, try a badger needle for $6.50, never had to replace one yet, tough as nails...

But, if money is no object, I'm sure you will get amazing results from whichever HS airbrush you choose..

Keep in mind - the nozzle changing ability isn't unique to H&S. The vast majority of double action brushes have two or more options for needle sizing.

The grip on that particular one always felt a bit off - so I have never gotten much further than messing around with them in the store though. It isn't so much that the pistol grips bother me (I actually like them), rather it is a weird combination of the shapes, trigger position and the funky back grip. When doing fine detail work, your hand is in a somewhat awkward position compared to how you might hold a regular brush or something like a pen or a pencil. The side trigger and top reservoir also restrict your vision more - so seeing the fine lines becomes more of a pain (the reservoir is removable - but then it feels a bit off balance). There are a lot of people who swear by them though.

For me, I like the trigger grip to be my big brushes. It is more in line with what muscle memory I have. I also like the trigger to be on the handle of the trigger grips. This also works with my muscle memory and feels more natural. The Grex Tritium is probably the nicest one of those on the market right now. Comes with 3 needles (0.2, 0.3 and 0.5 mm). The pistol handle/trigger trigger arrangement feels really good too. You can remove the top cup and just use the small built in reservoir (though it still is a bit odd doing really fine detail work in that arrangement - my personal opinion).

The other thing you will want to remember is that sometimes - you will want a bigger needle than 0.4 mm. Certain painting methods can cause build up on the tip with fine needles - just do to the nature of how they work. Some paints will gum up small needles (some of the hobby metallics and pearls). Sometimes you just want to be able to put down a lot of paint fast (priming, vehicle base coats, terrain). If you are after a magic bullet airbrush - you will want to keep that in mind and look around accordingly.

The Sotar from Badger has the 3 needle sizes as well as a configuration which I find conducive for fine free hand work. The only real downside is that you have to choose the small or large reservoir with it and can't change them out. Granted, I don't often use much more paint in it than I can fit in the small reservoir.

Of course, you can also look at getting a couple of less expensive brushes (a Badger 350 and one of the mid-grade Iwata's for detail). That 350 is a workhorse which can handle pretty much any paint you can find and is still fine enough to block in colors on figures. The price point would end up being close to the same but your have a more flexible tool box to work with.

I wasn't really asking about the price, although thank you for the feedback, I was asking how it handled, and about different structuring of the triggering mechanism. I understand it costs more. I should have been more clear, will edit.

Hmm...if this brush was as revolutionary as the advert, probably more people would own/talk about it...maybe I'll go with the infinity instead.