Switch Theme:

Filling Gaps!  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in za
Been Around the Block





Since I have already put so much money into Ghazghskull Thraka I wan't hime to be perfect! And usually i dont fill in the gaps, but i noticed there was a quite large and noticible gap when I went to connect his arm, is there anyway to fill it in? I know of liquid/solid green stuff but I really woudnlt know how to use it if i did get it.

Thanks,
Gabe.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Being not-so-Finecast...you will want to use a putty, GS being the choice of many - though there are other options.

In any case, the routine is pretty similar. Get as good of a joint as you can and sort of eyeball the gap you have. Pinch off a bit of putty, mix as directed and then roll out a sausage which is about the same diameter as the gap you need to fill. Cut it to about the length you need and carefully place it over the gap. Use a sculpting tool (generally a dull needle works fine for these fixes) to work it into the gap and blend the two parts together. Continue working to match details from the body to the arm.

The liquid fillers really don't work well for these types of gaps, so you will need to bite the bullet and use a putty. They just tend to not have enough body fill it.
   
Made in za
Been Around the Block





Wait, but ghazzy is finecast???
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1160105a

Looks to be. Same applies with metal though, so it is largely irrelevant.
   
Made in za
Been Around the Block





Sorry, I was just confused because you said it was not so finecast.
   
Made in gb
Secret Inquisitorial Eldar Xenexecutor





UK

It was a play on the sometimes lacking quality of finecast miniatures.

Soon his foes would learn that the only thing more dangerous than a savage three hundred pound brute is a savage three hundred pound brute with a plan - Ork Codex

30K Imperial Fist Progress
Tale of 6 Gamers - 30K

I've recently started taking on commissions, if you'd like to talk a project over feel free to PM me here, or find me at:
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BasiliskStudios
Email: Basilisk.Studios@yahoo.co.uk 
   
Made in za
Been Around the Block





Got it now javascript:emoticon('');.... Sorry not the brightest ork javascript:emoticon(''); ....


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Lol I cant even post the emoticons properly!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/30 15:32:29


 
   
Made in us
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Sean_OBrien wrote:Being not-so-Finecast...you will want to use a putty, GS being the choice of many - though there are other options.

In any case, the routine is pretty similar. Get as good of a joint as you can and sort of eyeball the gap you have. Pinch off a bit of putty, mix as directed and then roll out a sausage which is about the same diameter as the gap you need to fill. Cut it to about the length you need and carefully place it over the gap. Use a sculpting tool (generally a dull needle works fine for these fixes) to work it into the gap and blend the two parts together. Continue working to match details from the body to the arm.

The liquid fillers really don't work well for these types of gaps, so you will need to bite the bullet and use a putty. They just tend to not have enough body fill it.


Agreed, liquid fillers tend to shrink and also seep further into the crevice as they dry, so you'll apply a heap of it and it'll look sweet, come back in an hour and the gap will be back again.

There are a lot of putties you can try, I used to use a tube of filler made by Revell which was more like a thick paste, but I personally find greenstuff easier to use. Even though greenstuff has the added step of mixing it, typically you can sculpt it to the exact shape you want so there's no post work, where as I found the Revell putty was easy to apply but then needed cleaning up afterwards and sometimes a 2nd coat. Liquid greenstuff is really easy to apply but again often needs post work and often needs 2 or 3 or 4 coats depending on the size of the gap so I just gave up on it and went back to the regular 2 part greenstuff.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/07/30 16:26:56


 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Yah - the proper tool for the job and all that.

GS is better for these types of joints and gaps since you normally need to do a little reconstructive surgery as well in order to complete the join. The putty that Revell makes (and others) is more suited for joining up two halves of an airplane or something along those lines. It works well enough for thin gaps and you can make it smooth really easily. After it finishes drying, you can use a knife to scrape any access and give it a quick once over with some sand paper to make the whole assembly look like it was one piece.
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: