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I recently bought http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470015a&prodId=prod842206 and sprayed some Mordian models with it.
I shook the can well for about a minute before spraying and the room was at normal temperature imo.
However I found after spraying there was a sort of a frost effect on some of the models, especially on the cockpits of my Vendettas. I was able to remove it using a lightly watered brush but when I came back the next day it had sort of reappeared (very weird).
Has anyone else had this problem or found a solution? Its not a model breaker but is sort of annoying, I really only wanted to seal them against chippage and transfer loss.
Any ideas what might have happened?

Frosting occurs, when the humidity is too high.

Try coating the models with a heavy coat of gloss varnish and when that's dry, with a coat of matte varnish. This should eliminate the frosting effect.

Cheers!

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/466709.page

to get rid of the frosting you'll need a gloss varnish. stronger solvent melts the old matt. spray again half way through drying.


With reference to the cockpit windows, you're toast.

You can get the frost off with a Q tip and some olive oil sometimes.

Gloss varnish will eat away the frosted matte varnish. Get Testors glosscoat and dullcote. Gloss the model, wait overnight, then spray it with the dullcote matte varnish. Immediately bring it inside, preferably to an air conditioned area if the humidity is still high. That'll do it.

Gloss varnish does not eat away satin. It just covers it up. Try the Olive oil first. This tip is from one of the studio painter at Privateer Press. scroll down a bit to see the tip.

http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?114024-Any-way-to-fix-matt-varnish-frosting&highlight=olive

ICleadpeople wrote:Gloss varnish does not eat away satin. It just covers it up. Try the Olive oil first. This tip is from one of the studio painter at Privateer Press. scroll down a bit to see the tip.

http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?114024-Any-way-to-fix-matt-varnish-frosting&highlight=olive

I've used the gloss varnish to cover up/eat away the matte varnish and it's worked wonderfully. I never had to put my models in olive oil or whatever. The frosting was completely gone and the model looked good as new.

Thanks for the advice peeps.
I'm just a little confused though.
The consensus is to recoat every model with a gloss varnish and then reapply the satin one? Im not looking for a gloss finish at all.
Seems like an aweful lot of work too.
The models I did were my IG but in total I have circa 800 models to coat up. Surely the GW product should make it clear that forsting can occur and how to counter it?

I suppose my question is why bother with satin at all and just gloss them all up (finished look aside -Im just looking for protection).

I will try the olive oil trick first however and report back.
Thanks.

Unfortunately it is, but the matt will counter the shine from the gloss. The gloss simply gets rid of the frosted effect. I'd also suggest probably using a different satin/matt varnish. Obvious reasons there.

The gloss will generally protect a little better as well. In most cases you'll normally be fine with the normal varnish, but doing gloss than whatever it was you were going to use adds to the protection.

The finish of varnish is simply the top coat.

The idea is to coat it with gloss because it is best at disolving the previous layer of varnish, then coating it with fresh (I would suggest different brand/bottle) coat of satin varnish to get the satin look you were going for in the first place.

Hope this helps.

Brother SRM wrote:Get Testors glosscoat and dullcote. Gloss the model, wait overnight, then spray it with the dullcote matte varnish.

This is what I do too, I only use Testors gloss varnish and Testors dullcote matte varnish.

This, or similar product for the gloss varnish
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSTW5

This, or similar product for the matte varnish
(what I have comes in a white can)
http://www.amazon.com/Dullcote-Spray-Testors-Enamel-Plastic/dp/B0035LOUMU

You shouldn't have to buy this stuff online, a hobby store or an art store should have this with their model painting stuff. Probably near the enamel paints.
But its Testors brand I stick with, after having problems with other brands and sprays, I found something that works and want to stick with it.

IK-Painter wrote:Frosting occurs when the humidity is too high.

I actually spray my clear coat inside the house for this reason.
No it's probably not a good idea
Yes it stinks up the house
Yes I get kind of high from doing it, and not in a good way, it mostly just gives me a headache.

But do ya want good miniatures or not?
I've never had frosting when spraying inside.

ICleadpeople wrote:You can get the frost off with a Q tip and some olive oil sometimes.

I've never heard of this.
If I ever do get a model frosted I'll give it a try. Couldn't hurt I suppose.


So yeah
* Use the spray-on gloss varnish - Testors brand gloss varnish. This will remove the frosting.
* The use the matte varnish - Testors Dullcote. This will produce a matte clearcoat without the shiny gloss.

Good luck with it!

Thanks guys, much obliged.

Sooo mad after my World Eater Lord got ruined a week ago by frosting. I will try the hairdryer method and see if that works and if not, ill try this. Which seem to be the best method available.

http://entiago-projectmental.blogspot.se/2012/06/frosted-terror.html

...I think the only reason it looks like it "ate" the varnish off is that the olive oil glistens a bit, the same exact way that you use gloss varnish to hide the frosting. If anything, the dry dusting look is soaking up the oil to remove that cloudy look.

ICleadpeople wrote:Gloss varnish does not eat away satin. It just covers it up. Try the Olive oil first. This tip is from one of the studio painter at Privateer Press. scroll down a bit to see the tip.

http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?114024-Any-way-to-fix-matt-varnish-frosting&highlight=olive

The frosting isnt something unique to Citadel spray lacquer.
Incorrectly applied lacquer of any variety can frost up (or worse paint defects are possible)

9 times out of ten its because of a combintion of humidity and being applied too heavily. It should be applied in thinner coats than the primer sprays, in more layers. especially for matt finish.

The idea of gloss first then matt second is that the gloss coat will be much more protective against chips and scratches, aswell as providing en all over even surface for the matt to adhere too.

Once the gloss coat is fully dry (not just touch dry)
apply a 'tack coat' of matt - this is a very fine misty coat.
wait 5-10minutes and apply another slightly heavier coat, wait 10-15minutes and apply a third if needed and continue untill happy. allowing appropriate flash off times between coats.
If you do not allow flash off times then solvents within the lacquer remain stuck in lower coatings and can cause 'solvent popping' yet another commonly found paint defect from people rushing to apply coats -solvent popping can also appear to be a fine mist, but is actually millions of tiny micro bubbles of solvent trapped inside the coating.

Edit olive oil?! you would actually coat a surface to be painted in oil?! what the hell for? you do realise any chance of having more paint adhere to it becomes close to nil?

"Edit olive oil?! you would actually coat a surface to be painted in oil?! what the hell for? you do realise any chance of having more paint adhere to it becomes close to nil?"

Well pal.. I didnt come up with this, Privateer Press did. And apparently it works. Check it out/try i before you rant like a maniac.

Mandatory MajorTom Frosting post:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/How_to_recover_from_a_Spray_Sealer_disaster

I have converted to brushing on matte varnish. Never a problem with frosting again.

 Gravity wrote:
I have converted to brushing on matte varnish. Never a problem with frosting again.

Agreed. I still use spray once in a while for larger terrain, but I've found that brush on Varnish is cheaper, easier and just as fast, without any of the necessity for spray setup.

I use "Golden" brand artist's Matte Varnish watered down.

I had a squad of firewarriors frost. I resprayed them with the same varnish that frosted then dried them under a hot bulb.

Worked fine. I did spray them indoors the second time.