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I found this the other day and it's pretty awesome but it is in french.

http://orksforge.blogspot.fr/2012/04/tuto-scratchbuild-meganobz.html

That's a great link. FYI, If you're using Chrome, it'll auto-translate the page. Or, you can pump the page through Google Translate's web page: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Forksforge.blogspot.fr%2F2012%2F04%2Ftuto-scratchbuild-meganobz.html

TRANSLATED from ORKS FORGE Website
Original Article found here: http://orksforge.blogspot.fr/2012/04/tuto-scratchbuild-meganobz.html


Tutorial: Scratchbuilt meganobz

You also create your MegaNobZ! As expected following the tutorial to help you and guide you in achieving your MegaNobZ. To do this you will need a number of tools and raw materials. As always, my concern is to save, that's what I took to the base of my MegaNobZ Black Reach Nobz. It is good to know that if you are motivated, we can easily do without the body, leaving only the arms, head and legs. But here I can not help you. And tools for the plastic card, I return to my folder: to provide plastic card and equipment . I myself have not made ​​a specific plan, the tutorial presents itself more as a guide to help you in achieving your MegaNobZ, this is why I multiplied the photos, is often observed best thing to do. In this regard, last tip before you start: you provide an official MegaNobZ, it will be very helpful to inspire you in your building.

Step 1: "Nob Préparationné the Boss!"



The first thing to do is to remove the ugly plastic bar under the feet. Wherever possible it is best to cut anything over and interfere too sodding plastic card: tip of the handles, objects hanging from their belts, etc. ...
Know that your MegaNobZ will differ with the installation of arms, they will determine the final shape of the figurine. You can cut them if you have rabiots of Nobz mass (because of arm boyz ca does not happen of course).
At this stage you should also shave his chest, underwear and knees to lay the plates of plastic card as desired



You must begin to prepare the structure that will comprise the mega-armor: - A plate chest (pic1 / 2) - A "slip" (pic1 / 2) - bands around the ankles (pic1 / 2) - Shoes: Warning! You must raise the sur-Nobz with these shoes, glue the plastic card so that the shoes become the top of the shoe. (Peak 2) - A tube in the back, above the slip (pic1) - 1 tube of each side of the slip, inclined to the front: they train future pistons hung on the knees. The fit is tight, I advise you to lock onto the tube in the back. Know that I recut some "slips" and later plates. It is better to cut fat and adjust later as needed.



We then glue the pieces of tube that will host the knee (peak 3). You will have the beveled so that the knee does not collide with the shoe. Indeed the Nobz have difficult poses in the legs, you have to do with and provide to avoid having small balls.



I realized the knee plastic card thicker (1mm I believe). Consider insert before the piston rods without fixing (peak 4/5). It's easier. Note that these pistons are a bastard horror to ask, do not hesitate to take it easy on the glue in the beginning because you will have to adjust them so that the whole is consistent. Sometimes I even "dig" in the figure to secure them in a credible manner (thank you mini-tools)





You see the peaks 4 and 5 of the base of the legs MegaNobZ. If we stopped there, it would be packed architecture (like the first one I made), we must raise her on-soles (peak 7). You can enjoy the waterfalls of plastic card to add some elements of the knee (clad plated 'in rab' / teeth / glyph: peak 6/7)

Step 2: "Met de plak of protéjassion boss!"



He then comes the agony of preparing boxes dorsal. Between planing figurines and a hassle to find a credible height (too high: MN giant, not high enough: the head and does not seem quite flat MN) is a real picnic. I began this stage by making "shoulder" (peak 8)

(

This step will ask you tons of adjustments so that the shoulder pad to shoulder with the agreement of Nobz without leaving too many "empty". Ideally, the shoulder pads come lock on the chest plate, allowing the entire unit. Once this step is completed, we put a plaque above the shoulder (the larger plate, rework it later when the glue is dry). This often happens that elements come unstuck when reworking a plate, do not be discouraged!



At this level it is best to wedge a piece of plastic card behind the head of each figures. advantageously it hides the thickness of the plastic card and mask depth (peak 9).
It's time to stall the wings of our model aircraft! A number of Internet users exclaimed against these huge shoulder pads they are ugly or not credible. For me, this is what makes the beauty of my MegaNobZ, shoulder pads provide a solid side, almost chivalrous of clunky looking. You are free not to do or make smaller. See for yourself. At this stage (peak 9) MegaNobZ resemble the aircraft on legs, do not worry, the addition of arms and weapons rebalance all. A tip though: breaking up your form, fold in the tapping lightly of successive pliers to "round up", then file beveled so that the shoulder sticks easily on the shoulder pads. You will also notice on Peak 9 that I have at this stage, added the jaws of iron. They may seem prominent but again, it is better to cut off leaves behind to reshape.



Once done you have to start giving "body" and "volume" for our MegaNobZ is more like airplanes. Glue the arms into thinking that the weapons will be there geffer impressive. You have the right to cheat! Genre paste a piece of tube to remove the arm from the body, the important thing is that it just do not see the end. I even remember a severed arm above the elbow, glued to a tube glued himself directly under the shoulder! Moreover, apart from worries to hold the tube is a position more credible because it is easy to orient the arm as desired. It should however improve the technique to fit the arms (a rod? From wire? I do not know).
Paste plates protections under the shoulder pads, slanted (peak 10). This has two functions: firstly it gives volume to the model by hiding the thickness of relatively thin plastic card, on the other hand it allows to hide the arms hacks (hack if there was).



Finally attach the "hip" with their feet by creating these joints on the side of the figure. Keep in mind that the part of the thigh and gaut represents the lower tibia, this will help you visualize how to place each element. Watch the official MegaNobZ, it will also help you



Step 3: "Dakka Dakka DAKKA Boss!"


Now that a beautiful MegaNobZ well protected, it must be armed as a nag. Fortunately (or not ...) the codex is skinny at this level, and in melee you can choose between clip and clamp energy energy ... In terms of weapons, Fling 'twin, Kombi and Kombi LanceMissile Carbo. As we are a small band playing streak on the rules of distribution of damage in a unit with different equipment, so we made ​​three of each. The basis for weapons, either forceps or fling ', are quite similar: the goal is to create a box of plastic card (peak 12) which will be grafted thumbs or rabiots to a weapon ( peak 13). I can not explain to you better than the picture (pic 14/15). Keep in mind that it is important to look at your official MegaNobZ and watch on the net to create things credible. Do not forget it takes longer seem that being in modeling. So even if in reality ca no chance of working, as ca appears credible when mounted, it's good.









Once done you have made the biggest! You should get something approaching the peaks 16 and 17. This does not mean complete! We'll have to dress your figure severely to finish building its final volume and give it a unique charm.





Step 4: "Ce me pluss bo head arf arf arf!"

MegaNobZ a self-respecting, this is a MegaNobZ not care who dazzle and whose second goal (after killing a lot by doing a lot of noise) is to make jealous all the boyz to burst out of the corner. To do this we'll have to burn the box and rabiots in crafting. It is for everyone to do what he wants and that is where the advantage of playing Orks: you can let go and do almost anything. However there are some elements that I feel bound to add good: - The mechanical: the mega-armor are lots of dubious Taules technology but inevitably noisy and conspicuous. even on mega armor the "softer" I created (peak 18) I let emerge mechanical. In this case a second helping of epic Thud Gun. You can see something more elaborate on the peak 19: rabiots diverse collection of elements on an old circuit board, son and electric wire, overall, a bit messy, gives a mechanical unit to the figurine.



- Rivets: It is mandatory to put rivets. If I made ​​the choice of large rivets / bolts to give an imposing appearance to my MegaNobZ, it is quite possible to use or make smaller rivets. In all cases, it takes! - Chimneys and exhaust pipe: as you can see from the peak 20, it is possible to easily with the rods and tubes, very credible exhaust pipe and / or chimneys. We can let go again, but if you want to stay sober, one well placed pipe (peak 17) will fit the bill.





Finally here is a picture of a MegaNobZ finished with Battles Damages:



You will notice the addition of a plaque on the upper arm and the piston starting from under the shoulder to the arm (really handy at any point of view these shoulder pads ...). These are additions that I made ​​on each MegaNobZ, they are long and tedious but bring a real visual impact. I also add extra skid plates underneath shoulder pads to add volume and help hide the start of the pistons (which are actually glued directly on the arms ... always seem to appear ...). It only removes the figure is impressive and credible and it is the only lens you need to assign (with of course the fact you like it). I hope this tutorial will help you. I appreciate in advance your feedback to this article, feel free to ask me for more information or show me what you have done with this issue.

I there ! I'm the creator of these MegaNobZ (and the owner of blog and tuto).

I allow you to post a traduction of my article Actually, a friend of mine is translating this one because I post in Warseer and Da Waaagh.

Maybe I should create a thread here ^^

(sorry for my english I'm french ^^)

Hey Lucius !!

Thank you for giving your blessing.

You should definitely post here !!

that was amazing great job!!!!!

I create a thread there Check my signature ^^

Illuknisa : someone make a translation of my tuto. Can you add it in the first post of the thread ?

This is a fan translation of the meganob scratch-build technique developped by LuciusLeTroll, permission pending.

Original Author: LuciusLeTroll (http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/30/469636.page)
His blog 'Orks Forge', in french: http://orksforge.blogspot.fr/
Original how-to on his blog: http://orksforge.blogspot.fr/2012/04/tuto-...d-meganobz.html
Translation by Spacecat (http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/index.php?showuser=13070)

I took the liberty of adding small tips from my own experience building one of these.


You too can create your Meganobz!

As planned, here is the tutorial to help and guide you in making your meganobz, to do so you will need a certain amount of tools and material. As always my goal is to save money, that is why I use Assault On Black Reach Nobs as a base. It is good to know that if you are motivated you can save the body and only use the arms and legs, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. For tools and plasticard, I am referring you to the tips on my blog. I myself do not use a precise plan, the tutorial is therefore more of a guide that will help you create your Meganobz, that is why I took lots of pictures, observing is often the best thing to do. Last advice before starting: Get yourself an official meganob, it will be useful inspiration.


Step 1: "Prepare da nob, boss!"

Picture 1

First thing to do is to remove the plastic bar below the feet, generally speaking it is best to cut everything that pokes away from the model and might interfere with the armor we'll build: Objects tied to waists, bit of belt poking out, etc... Do know that your Meganobz will be different depending on the arm stance, those will guide the final look of the figurine. you can cut them off if you have spare nob arms. (Because regular boy arms will not do, too small). At this step, you should also shave plastic off the front of the torso and the knees to help place plastic how you like.
(Spacecat tip: Go ahead and cut the fixed arm at the shoulder with a hobby saw. It's easy to alter the pose and glue it back later, that also gives you more room to work on the body and shoulders.)


Picture 2

You must start to prepare the mega-armor structure:
-A chest piece (pic 1/2)
-A loin guard (pic 1/2)
-bands or tubing to surround the ankles (pic 1/2)
-Shoes: Careful! you must raise the nobz thanks to platform-style shoes, make it so the armored shoes are about twice the height of the original shoes, with the original shoes at the top.
-A small tube on each side of the hip, pointed along the thigh: They form the hydraulic cylinders that will link to the knee pads. Those are touchy to adjust, I recommend to set them against a horizontal tube in the back.

Do note that I often cut off loinguards and chestplates later, it's best to make things too big and take a cutter to it later, according to needs.


Picture 3

We then glue short tubes that will link to kneepads (pic 3). You need to cut them at angles so the kneepads don't bump against the shoes. The nobz have difficult poses around the legs, we must deal with it and plan to avoid bunching up the legs.
(Spacecat tip: The AOBR nobs have a really bent shoe, slicing off the top of the tip to change the angle of the boot can help.)


Picture 4

I make the kneepads in thicker plasticard (1mm thick I think). Make sure to insert the rods in the cylinders without gluing them (pic 4/5), it's easier. Those darn cylinders are a pain to set, don't hesitate to go light on glue at the start because you may have to adjust everything later. Sometimes I even 'dig' into the figurine to set the cylinders in a believable way (Thank you mini-tools!).
(Spacecat tip: You may find it simpler to build the kneepads first, then set the cylinders and finally the back tube. Instead of the other way around.)


Picture 5


Picture 6

You can see on pictures 4 and 5 the basis for the meganobz legs. If we stopped here he would be very bunched up (like the first I built), so we must raise the shoes. You can use plastic cuttings to add detailing on the kneepads (extra plates, teeth, glyphs: pic 6/7)


Step 2: "Add ded 'ard armor protekshun, boss!"

Picture 7

Now comes the painful moment to prepare the dorsal armor box. Between cutting into the figurine and trying to find an appropriate height (Too high: Giant Meganob. Too low: The head doesn't set right and the MN looks too flat), it can get frustrating. I begun this step by making vertical shoulder plates (pic 8)


Picture 8

This step will requirs tons of adjustments so the shoulder plates join against the model without too much empty space. Ideally those plates would set against the chestpiece to unify the whole thing. Once this is done, set a plate over the vertical shoulderplates (bigger than necessary, use cutter when the glue has set). Sometimes pieces will come apart when we rework a plate, do not give up!


Picture 9

At this step it is advised to set a piece of plastic behind the head of each figurine, it hides the thinness of the plasticard and hides the depth (pic 9). Time to set the wings of our miniature airplanes! Some folks spoke out against these enormous shoulder-wings that they find ugly or not believable. For my part, I find it makes the charm of my meganobz, giving them a massive, 'knight of the scrapyard' look. You are free to not make these or make smaller ones, it's up to you. AT this step (pic 9) the meganobz look like planes on legs, don't worry, adding arms and big weapons will rebalance the model. Important tip: cut the shape in plasticard, give it a curve by giving multiple small bends with a pair of flat pliers, then file at an angle so the plate flues easily on the vertical shoulderplate. You will notice on pic 9 that I already, at this step, added the iron jaw. They can appear large, but once again we cut too large and use a cutter later on.


Picture 10

Now we start to give body and volume so our meganobz no longer look like airplanes. Glue the arms while considering the large size of the weapons that will go on them. You can cheat! Like adding a bit of tubing to set the arm further than the body, what matters is that we don't notice in the end. I even remember one arm cut over the elbow, glued to a tube that was glued directly under the shoulderguard! Also, besides the challenge of the tube holding on, it is a credible position as it'S easy to adjust the arm as we wish. However we need to improve the technique to have the arm hold on (small iron rod? I don't know). Glue extra armor plates under the shoulderguard, at an angle (pic 10). This has two uses: it gives volume to the model by hiding the relative thinness of the plastic, and it hides whatever mess we used to set the arm properly (if there is a mess).


Picture 11

At least, attach the hips with the feet by creating these armor bits on the sides of the model. Keep in mind the higher part is like a thigh, the lower part follows the tibia. That will help you see how to set each part. Have a look at the official meganob, that will also help.


Step 3: "Dakka Dakka DAKKA Boss!"

Now that we have a nicely protected meganob, we must arm it properly! Luckily (or not) the codex is a little thin on options, so we need power klaws and for the other arm a choice of twin-linked shootas, or kombi-weapons with rokkits or skorchas. The basis for each weapon or even klaws is similar: a box of plasticard (pic 12) on which we'll build the klaw or bits to make a gun (pic 13). I can't explain better than the pictures (pic 14/15). Keep in mind to look at the official meganob and check the net to make something believable. Don't forget also that we must 'appear' rather than 'be' in model-making, so even if in reality it couldn't work, as long as it looks believable when built, it's good.

Picture 12


Picture 13


Picture 14


Picture 15


Once this is finished, you're done with most of the work! You should have something like pictures 16 and 17. We're still not finished! We will need to dress our model severely to give it its final volume and a unique charm.

Picture 16


Picture 17


Step 4: "I'm da most proppa-lookin' boss, he he he!"


A meganob worth his teef is a meganob that leaves an impression, so the second objective (after killing and doing a lot of noise) is to make all boys around green(er) with envy. For that we need to hit the bits box and think a bit. Each builder can do what he wants, and there lies the advantage of playing ork: We can go wild and make almost anything! Though there are some important things, obviously:
-Mechanical parts: Mega-armors are dubious-looking junkyard tech, but always flashy and noisy. Even on the 'softest' mega-armor I made (pic 18) I let some meganical bits visible. In this case half an epic Thud gun. You can see something more elaborate on pic 19: gubbins, something off a circuit board, electrical wiring, bailing wire... All these bits together, a bit messy, give a mechanical power source to the unit.


Picture 18

-Rivets: It is mandatory to add riveting. If I made the choice of larger rivets to make my meganobs more menacing, it is perfectly fine to use smaller ones. But in all cases we need them!
-Smokestacks and exhausts: As you can see on pic 20, it is easy to make believable exhausts with variously sized tubes. Again you can go wild, but if you want to stay tame, one well-set tube (pic 18) will do nicely.


Picture 19


Picture 20


To conclude, here is a picture of a finished meganob, with battle damage:

final picture


You will notice the addition of a plate on the top of the arm as well as some hydraulic cylinders going from the shoulderguard to the arm (really useful all over, those shoulderguards). They are additions that I made on each meganob, they take a while to make but add a real visual impact. I also added extra armor plates under the shouldesr to give more volume and hide the base of each cylinder (which were in fact glued directly to the arm... it's all about appearance). Still, the model is imposing, believable and that's our main goal! (Besides of course you liking the model.)

I hope this tutorial will be helpful, thanks in advance for all C&C, don't hesitate to ask me more information or show me what you built thanks to this file.

That was quickly posted...

My apologies for any typos that snuck in, I'll blame my grots. The original translation I'll fix up is on the waaagh: http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/?showtopic=52422

yep this good stuff must be share fastly