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Made in us
Water-Caste Negotiator






I just got a large mess of IG infantry from a friend of mine. 100 Guardsmen in one plastic container. The problem is, a little glue bottle exploded in there, making a ridiculous mess of things. The glue has hardened so handling them is not much of a problem anymore. However, several Guardsmen are stuck together and if I try to force them apart, they'll end up being looking like as if they got hit by a krak grenade. Any ideas how to handle this situation?


Why buy expensive 40k at retail price?


http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/469464.page#4727302


See the link above and get decent 40k armies for a decent price.
 
   
Made in gb
Agile Revenant Titan





Scotland

Well, leaving them in Nail Polish remover overnight should deal with the glue, however, the models which have been glued together may be a bit of a lost cause.

You never know what a bit of greenstuff and patience can make however!

Iranna.

 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






What kind of glue is the most important part of these threads which always seems to be missing.

If it is plastic glue - you are a good bit FUBAR. Nothing really to deal with plastic glue in this situation, I would recommend taking up a Chaos Guard army or something along those lines.

All other glues can be handled in pretty much the same way you remove paint - as well as freezing them or using an ultrasonic cleaner.

The vast majority of paint removal methods will remove glue just as well as they remove paint, so the various things like Simple Green, oven cleaner, brake fluid, alcohol, acetone - they will all work to varying degrees whether it is epoxy, super glue or some other substance which isn't solvent based.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Keep in mind though, the same rules for stripping apply for degluing. Not everything is safe for all materials. Acetone in particular can make a mess out of plastics.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/09/03 20:25:39


 
   
Made in us
Water-Caste Negotiator






The glue is named Zap-a-gap.... this is..... plastic.... glue.... right?


BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD


Why buy expensive 40k at retail price?


http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/469464.page#4727302


See the link above and get decent 40k armies for a decent price.
 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

What sort of glue? If it's PVA (white/wood) glue, you should be able to cut, pry, and peel them free without damage. If it's plastic cement, they'll be physically fused into a blob, so they'll need to be physically cut/sawed apart (whether that means whole models or bits and pieces depends on their position and your skill). If it's CA (super-) glue, they can likely be separated, with a bit of work and patience (popping them in the freezer for a while will make the glue extra brittle, helping you pry the parts free without mangling them), but the buildup of glue on their surface will likely render them useless.

If you can't separate them, a tangled mass of Guardsmen might make for a decent Tyranid objective/terrain piece. Sink them in some tinted resin and you've got yourself one nasty digestion pool.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Zap a gap is superglue.

Whilst it CAN be used on plastic, it is NOT a 'plastic glue'. It's rather brittle (because ALL superglues except the rubberised ones are) and responds badly to freezing.

'Plastic glues' weld the plastic together into a new single piece and no solvent can dissolve that bond without destroying the plastic.

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in us
Water-Caste Negotiator






So my best option is to freeze it?


Why buy expensive 40k at retail price?


http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/469464.page#4727302


See the link above and get decent 40k armies for a decent price.
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






 Diesel Stradin wrote:
So my best option is to freeze it?


That is the best place to start. Freezing doesn't actually risk much of anything and it is minimal effort. Stick it in a zip lock bag and throw it in the freezer over night. The next day, give it a firm "thwap" with your finger like you were attempting to get someone's attention, and 9 out of 10 glue joints will fail.

After that in order of effort, I would rate an ultrasonic cleaner/jewelry cleaner and finally paint stripper (oven cleaner or Super Clean being my tool of choice).

Once they are separated you can generally brush the glue residue off with a stiff tooth brush.
   
Made in us
Mekboy Hammerin' Somethin'





Moody AFB, GA

Go to the Dollar Store and get a big bottle of LA Awesome and let it soak in that overnight. It "should" brake down most of the glue to a point where you could tooth brush it off.

4000
2500
2000
1850
 
   
Made in us
Jealous that Horus is Warmaster






New York City

You should try soaking the models in simple green CONCENTRATED, mind you for 2 days and run them under hot water, then gently pry them apart under hot water (And any paint will come off too)

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Made in us
Water-Caste Negotiator






So my options are (and I'll try them in this order):

1. Freezing
2. LA Awesome
3. Simple Green

Alright, gimme a week and I'll tell you how it went. If anyone is interested, I can post pics and stuff to so others will benefit from this.


Why buy expensive 40k at retail price?


http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/469464.page#4727302


See the link above and get decent 40k armies for a decent price.
 
   
 
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