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Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User




Hello Folks, I recently decided to jump in the deep end and purchase a basic airbrush kit (KMS Airbrush Kit AS186 with a BD130 brush). Overall I have enjoyed the steep learning curve that airbrushing entails but there is a couple of issues I'm hoping you good people can help with.

1- Sometimes although there is constant air flow I need to almost rock the trigger back and forward to maintain paint flow, Is this caused by not thinning the paint enough?
2- Sometimes the paint flows on engaing the airflow before even pulling the trigger back, Is this caused by over thinning the paint?

Im pretty sure I have been doing a thorough job cleaning and mainting the brush and do try to achieve the correct concistency of my paint, currently using GW, Vallejo Game and model air range colours. The above issues dont seem specific to just 1 range.

Thanks.

Recently completed my lord of change.



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This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/09/06 15:56:50


 
   
Made in gb
Space Marine Scout with Sniper Rifle




UK Coventry

Sorry cant be of any help but i am in a very similar situation, new to airbrushing and have similar problems so would be very interested in any help coming your way

*more of a don't worry you're not the only one post*
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Nottingham, UK

Ag3ofPanic wrote:
Hello Folks, I recently decided to jump in the deep end and purchase a basic airbrush kit (KMS Airbrush Kit AS186 with a BD130 brush). Overall I have enjoyed the steep learning curve that airbrushing entails but there is a couple of issues I'm hoping you good people can help with.

1- Sometimes although there is constant air flow I need to almost rock the trigger back and forward to maintain paint flow, Is this caused by not thinning the paint enough?
2- Sometimes the paint flows on engaing the airflow before even pulling the trigger back, Is this caused by over thinning the paint?




1) Most likely the nozzle clogging / tip dry. Can be related to 2. Tip dry occurs more if you're spraying long bursts. Psst psst psst, not psshsssshshssssh. A good flow improver or airbrush medium can dramatically reduce tip dry. Nozzle clogging occurs more for me (I have a .25mm nozzle) with reds and red-browns (large, heavy pigment particles). Different paints will like different thinners / mediums. It's a case of experimentation to find best flow for your setup. My first port of call is a mix of water and acrylic flow improver (few drops in the cup). Usually I'm thinning the paint 50-50 or more, unless it's VMA which needs much less thinning (on larger nozzle sizes it'd probably run neat quite happily).

2) When the nozzle clogs, the needle can get 'stuck' away from the nozzle (leaving the flow channel open). When the air goes on, the blockage can get blasted out, along with a bit of paint. This causes spatter. NEVER engage the air pointing at the model. Always point away to clear it, then engage air and pull back for flow when the brush is working correctly.

I keep a cotton bud, old brush (for the needle) and jar of cellulose thinner handy to give the nozzle and needle tip a quick wipe now and then while working just to keep them clear. Helps prevent both the above.



 
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

Welcome to airbrushing!

Troublehsooting the blighters can be very stressful! The one where the paint comes out before you pull the needle back is suggesting a clog or something in the nozzle, along the needle, the needle seal etc, or even just ever so slightly impropper needle placement.

Firstly, whip the handle off the airbrush and loosen the needle chuck, and make sure the needle is sat fully flush in the nozzle and then re tighten the chuck.
If the problem persists, cleaning is required.
If the parts are infact clean as a whislte, perhaps lubrication is required.
I've used a bd130 before (well the same brush under another name) and the nozzle attaches via an awfully tiny fiddly thread with a little o-ring between the parts, take great care with this, It snaps off in the brush fairly easy (or splits the o-ring) when over tightened, and the o-ring makes too poor a seal if undertightened.

To lubricate the brush it wont take very much oil. There are airbrush specific ones, but any ultra fine oil should suffice. If in doubt shell out the few bucks on the specific one and it does last a long time.
I like to use skateboard bearing oil, mostly because its kicking around... Seems to work just fine, the tolerances in Skate bearings are very tight much like the airbrush so i figured its suitable.
It can interact with paint, so be sparing. You need it all along the needle, and in the trigger mechanism. My prefered way to coat the needle is to put a drop on a clean rag and then wipe the oily rag along the needle (being careful of the tip and not bending it!) - I tend to hold the needle at the back and pull it carefully through pinched fingers holding the rag.

The one where you rock the trigger back and forth could just be a build up of tip dry. Which is inevitable I'm afraid, especially with acrylics. Regular rinsing out can help reduce this, say for example you spray a few ml of a colour, red? and then use it all up and need more, rinse the old red out before adding fresh ontop even though the colour remains the same, the older batch is slightly dryed and can cause clogs with lumps of dryed old paint sinking to the bottom of the new paint. It doesnt take a full on cleaning, I would shoot a drop of your chosen airbrush cleaner through to ensure theres not a build up of semi dry paint at the nozzle and then add my extra cup full.
It comes with experience with a particular paint, you will get to know how fast it drys up in the tip and how regular you need to flush out etc.

Best of luck, hope this helps if your problem persists we might need more info to work it out.

'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Nottingham, UK

With regard to the o-ring around the nozzle, mine is thoroughly borked, but I found some PTFE tape wrapped around the thread worked wonders to tighten the fit.

Maybe I'll buy a new airbrush soon.

 
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

New o-rings can be purchased. O-rings, needles and nozzles should be considered consumable's with an airbrush. It doesn't matter how much you spent on the brush, these parts will one day need replacement.
Depending on your airbrush model and manufactuerer and suppliers etc.

http://www.everythingairbrush.com/

These guys are based in the UK, and stock parts for buttloads of brushes, I beleive they call the BD130 an AB130 instead, but it is the same airbrush I'm sure.(please compare the parts diagram to your own though) Listed under the brand name 'Finespray', For me this shop is the closest place to home for my Harder & Stenbeck parts too.

Always know where to get your needles, nozzles and o-rings from

note: needle seals often require special tooling in order to replace. Its a little screw driver with a prong to hold the seal centered while you tighten it up. without the tool its almost impossible. It is reached through the back of the handle,between the air valve and the paint input, incase you wondered which seal I'm talking about.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/09/06 17:50:25


'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User




Thanks for all the awsome advice,

Im going to try playing around with a couple of different flow aids and see if that remedys the problem, Im aware of the dry tip issues so keep that one clear.
I dont think there is any issues with the seals as I cant see/hear any air loss anywhere. The ones I can see all seem to be in resonable condition.

Cheers.
   
 
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