Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

So I've had my Paasche Talon for a few years now, and I've only ever done basic hand cleaning. I took the entire thing apart once because I hadn't done proper cleaning on the first few months I had it so there was dried paint stuck in all kinds of places.

Since I'll be using it a bit more on new projects, I figured I'd ask some questions about cleaning it.

1. How do I clean dried paint out of the cup? I don't want to use any solvents that may corrode the metal or any internal parts.

2. Should I invest in a sonic bath? They are only $25 at Home Depot and seem like it might be worth while.

3. What should I use in a sonic bath to clean with? Water, Simple Green, Windex?

4. How far should I break down the brush before putting it in said bath?

5. How should I go about cleaning dried paint out of the actual nozzle that the needle is in? I've been using a spare needle to scrape it free and force it out.

For cleaning my airbrush I use Acetone, although Harder & Steenbeck did make claims of solvent resitance in this particular airbrush.
You 'should' break down your airbrush and clean it out after every painting session, then apply some lubrication as you rebuild.
I can't give any paasche specific advice, but my H&S brush does require a special tool for aligning the needle seal correctly. Its a screwdriver with an appropriate sized prong in the middle. To access the needle seal I have to remove the needle and the handle, and go in with this tool from the back. Paint builds up around it, so it does need a clean now and then. But DO NOT remove it if you can't realign it... your airbrush won't work quite right untill it's properly aligned!
Look into wether you need a special tool like me or how its done with paasche.

Sonic bath sounds good. I don't have one but always intended to get one, I'm going to write it on my shopping list now ... no more excuses!

For cleaning dried paint from the nozzle you can get nozzle reamers, ideally you want a paasche one with a taper that matches the inside of your nozzles.
For this I use an old well ruined paint brush with long bristles (a size 2 Rigger as it happens) with acetone, and only get the tip reamer out when theres real blockage problems.

If acetone isnt suitable for your airbrush; it should be fine on the chrome but potentially can ruin seals and orings.
Then try IPA (rubbing alcohol) or perhaps tamiya airbush cleaner.. or some other brand (I think tamiya is actually alcohol)- vinegar will corrode chrome which can be found in some glass cleaners check the ingredients

If you cant re align the needle seal, don't worry, just don't remove it untill you know how. As far as breaking down the brush goes you will want to remove the needle, nozzle, any caps or guards, and the trigger. I generally leave the air feed assembly alone.
When reassebling, apply a drop of airbrush lube (I actually use some skateboard bearing oil; bones speed cream) to the triggers moving parts, and use a clean rag with a drop on to oil the needle (wiping from the back to the point being careful not to bend it!)

I've taken out that center seal (called a packing assembly for my brush) once when I fully disassembled. Didn't need to align it at all, it fits in only one way with no give in any direction.

The brush is pretty simple to take apart, the only tools needed are the nozzle wrench, and allen key and a small screwdriver(only for the packing assembly).

I'll have to look into a reamer as it sounds like exactly what I want.

I'll email Paasche and ask about using acetone or IPA for uber cleaning.

Thanks for the advice.

Aerethan wrote:So I've had my Paasche Talon for a few years now, and I've only ever done basic hand cleaning. I took the entire thing apart once because I hadn't done proper cleaning on the first few months I had it so there was dried paint stuck in all kinds of places.

Since I'll be using it a bit more on new projects, I figured I'd ask some questions about cleaning it.

1. How do I clean dried paint out of the cup? I don't want to use any solvents that may corrode the metal or any internal parts.
90% iso alcohol or industrial acetone.

2. Should I invest in a sonic bath? They are only $25 at Home Depot and seem like it might be worth while.

Absolutely

3. What should I use in a sonic bath to clean with? Water, Simple Green, Windex?

Warm water. Simple green will strip the chrome off of the brass internals first and the exterior later.

4. How far should I break down the brush before putting it in said bath?
All the way not at all depends on what you are doing. If Im rinsing between colors I take out the needle and dump the whole thing in, if its the end of the day I break it down completely and soak it over night.
5. How should I go about cleaning dried paint out of the actual nozzle that the needle is in? I've been using a spare needle to scrape it free and force it out.
Soak then insert the needle as regular assembly, plunge it like you would a toilet, they also make cleaning kits and dental picks that can do the same job without risking the needle.

Answers in Between.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsW-vN0_lHw&feature=plcp

Best video on airbrush care