Switch Theme:

The undercoat disaster, need HELP!  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in fi
Brooding Night Goblin





Another dimension

As the title said I am in desperate need of help!

A while ago i undercoated some high elves of mine and the end result was quite awful. The coat appeared to have a rough sandy texture, almost like textured paint.

NOTE. I don't use GW spray. I use finnish made Maston white spray (not textured or anything, just normal undercoat spray) which is my favored brand.



This area is nearly impossible to paint and it looks like .

Now on large surfaces (robes, shields) the coat cracked.



Does anyone know what caused these mishaps?

What I really need help with is how to strip undercoats. I've tried acetone but this only ruied the details and didn't really remove any paint.

So if you are lurking on any solutions please share them because it helps!

Cheers.


win-draw-loss

3000 points of WAAGH! Grimkiller
1350 points of Grey Knights 3-1-3
Started a templar army...
Skaven: 1000 points 1-0-0
Goblins: 1400-ish
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut




Oklahoma City

I'd suggest soaking them for 24 hours in simple green or LA's totally awesome, probably the most popular methods offered here. (then scrub profusely with an old toothbrush)



I'm not sure why you get the grainy/sandy texture though. I occasionally get it using cheap 97 cent flat black spray from wal mart. I'm painting orks though so I try to just work with it but I can understand the frustrations of trying to paint something sleek on top of that



So if anyone has any idea why the particle/texture affect happened I'm all ears too... I sort of thought it was because my garage is filthy and it was dust/dirt from floor working its way into atmosphere and settling on the dried paint?


that theory doesn't at all explain the cracked coat on the large surfaces... and for all i know you're spray painting in a sterile lab environment as opposed to my near industrial one

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/10/19 15:23:04


http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/472615.page#4701031 LAND HOOOOOOO! my freeboota blog (can look me up on the-waaagh and da warpath same username)... Currently in the the midst of adventure into night goblin squig cult



hi daoc friends this is beeyawnsay c: 
   
Made in cn
Nurgle Veteran Marine with the Flu






Norwich - England - usually in the pub

I feel your pain Exactly the same thing happened to me with a unit of FW berzerkers I spent ages converting. Simple green is the answer, but you may need to soak for several days - then scrub with an old toothbrush or one of those brass suede brushes (take care whilst scrubbing though!). Good luck!

My chaos army thread & http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/389912.page

In the frozen land of Nador they were forced to eat Robin’s minstrels. And there was much rejoicing. 
   
Made in us
Monstrous Master Moulder





Utah

I cannot say why this happened but I just had this happen to me on my ork bommer. I must say it really sucks.

What i had to do was strip the paint but unfortunately for me the textured look was still there. I left it for 24 hours so you may want to do it for a lot longer.

I eventually got some sandpaper and kind of got rid of the problem. Thankfully it is an ork model and i can slap on some random bitz to cover some of the problems.

This only happens when i use white primer with other colors from the same line I use i have never had the same issue. I ended up buying some Vallejo surface primer to use in my airbrush to use for lighter color primers.

Sorry it sucks big time!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/10/19 15:54:24


 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block





Did you spray in an enclosed space or on a hot day? I think the sandy texture comes from paint drying before landing on the model.
The first time I used spray primer, I sprayed into a box and my models came out like that. After moving to the top of the box, it comes out fine.

How thick was the coat of paint on the second model? It looks like you may have used way too much, at least for one coat

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





I'll echo what other people have said that this tends to happen with white primer for some reason. I've never had it happen with other colors and I don't understand why.

I believe the underlying cause of it is the humidity levels when/where you're priming are too high.
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






 AclockworkCybork wrote:
As the title said I am in desperate need of help!

A while ago i undercoated some high elves of mine and the end result was quite awful. The coat appeared to have a rough sandy texture, almost like textured paint.

NOTE. I don't use GW spray. I use finnish made Maston white spray (not textured or anything, just normal undercoat spray) which is my favored brand.



This area is nearly impossible to paint and it looks like .

Now on large surfaces (robes, shields) the coat cracked.



Does anyone know what caused these mishaps?

What I really need help with is how to strip undercoats. I've tried acetone but this only ruied the details and didn't really remove any paint.

So if you are lurking on any solutions please share them because it helps!

Cheers.



What happened was that your primer was old. After a bit on the shelf, the paint in the can breaks down, and you end up spraying out dried paint dust/ aresol spray. Its crap, I know from experience.

It happens for any numer or reasons, but basicly, all you can do is to strip it and start over. The good/ better news for you is that the aresol crap isn't going to last on there, and comes off easily with SIMPLE GREEN, or some stuff that I think it was mentioned by someone on Dakka, called "Purple Power" degreaser. Either one here in the states costs around 10 bucks or so, depending on the sized bottle.

Put the model into a jar of this stuff, watch it soak, and either in a day or so use a soft toothbrush and scrub the crap off. Like I said, theres any number of reasons that the paint goes dry like that. Where I was at, in NC (North Carolina) the weather was hot and the cans stayed in the garage, until use. I ended up getting a can or two each time, as I got the models. Sometimes they were crap on the shelves, as well, then I had a few hard times where I had to try to get the can refunded. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't.

Another issue you have there is that you sprayed a little too much on. When it cracks on the model like that, you usually end up covering in the light details.

I recommend next time, to lightly wave the can across the model around 16 inches away and spray in strokes, lightly pressing on the trigger, as you pass the can over the model and mist the spray on the guys.

SIMPLE GREEN. http://www.simplegreen.com/

Purple Power. http://www.clean-rite.com/

As to "Primer", thats an ongoing debate. BUT whatever primer you use, buy the can, run it out, and get it only when you have models to primer.

Leaving it for "The next model" usually ends up looking like what you have there.

Good luck to you



At Games Workshop, we believe that how you behave does matter. We believe this so strongly that we have written it down in the Games Workshop Book. There is a section in the book where we talk about the values we expect all staff to demonstrate in their working lives. These values are Lawyers, Guns and Money. 
   
Made in fi
Brooding Night Goblin





Another dimension

Thank you for all the tips. I will try out this "Green" you speak of.

Cheers!

win-draw-loss

3000 points of WAAGH! Grimkiller
1350 points of Grey Knights 3-1-3
Started a templar army...
Skaven: 1000 points 1-0-0
Goblins: 1400-ish
 
   
Made in us
Death-Dealing Dark Angels Devastator





Great Falls, Montana

had it happen to some old minatures sucks ballz to be honest but hey look on bright side you can have a sand man army >_< but simply green is ur friend and it will come up of easy

“Never interrupt your enemy when he is making a mistake.” ― Napoleon Bonaparte

 
   
Made in us
Changing Our Legion's Name





hey cybork, if you can't find Simple Green, you can try Isopropyl Alcohol. It'll cut through any kind of paint and is cheap. It works fine on metal or plastic minis, but it can mess up resin. Also, if you use it, be sure to do so in a well ventilated area.

I've had this kind of thing happen to me before, in my experience moving the spray can closer can help some, and make sure you shake the hell out of it. Also, be sure you test your spray on a piece of sprue before you spray your models
   
Made in us
Storm Trooper with Maglight





Montain Home, Ar

I have had both of those problems happen to me.

For the grainy look, let it dry, and you can brush it off with a toothbrush quite easily.
For the cracking look, if its on a vehicle, I usually leave it on there. It makes for a cool effect on the face of the vehicle.


 
   
Made in gb
Using Inks and Washes





Duxford, Cambs, UK

If you can't find Green, try and get hold of "Fairy Powerspray" instead. works wonders on plastic, metal, resin, or vinyl models.

"Ask ten different scientists about the environment, population control, genetics, and you'll get ten different answers, but there's one thing every scientist on the planet agrees on. Whether it happens in a hundred years or a thousand years or a million years, eventually our Sun will grow cold and go out. When that happens, it won't just take us. It'll take Marilyn Monroe, and Lao-Tzu, and Einstein, and Morobuto, and Buddy Holly, and Aristophanes…then all of this…all of this…was for nothing. Unless we go to the stars." Commander sinclair, Babylon 5.

Bobtheinquisitor wrote:what is going on with APAC shipping? If Macross Island were real, they'd be the last place to get any Robotechnology.
 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: