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Made in sg
Imperial Recruit in Training



Singapore

Hey all! Looking to start a DKoK army in the near future and I've got a couple of questions

1) When washing/brushing the models, would any kind of soap be fine? Or should a specific type of soap be used?

2) How do you get rid of mold lines? Seems like using sand paper to weather it down risks the model itself being scratched?

3) Would it be better to paint before assembly when it comes to DKoK models? Or would assembling and painting after be fine for them?

4) Is there anything troublesome/particular about resin that i need to take note of?
(Btw, got tips of how to fix warped pieces and taking caution when cutting them, but is there anything else besides these?)

Sorry if these questions seem dumb or self explainatory, Im completely new to this and had these burning questions to ask.
Any advice/ help is much appreciated! Thanks!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/10/20 19:22:43


 
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

Basically, you model them exactly as any other miniature, but to answer your questions specifically:

1) Any dish soap is fine. I myself use a brief soak in simple green, then scrub with a toothbrush, rinse and dry.
2) Either use your xacto knife or files as normal.
3) I typically assemble fully, or close to it, then paint. For some hero models or intricate multi part models, I'll build them in sub assemblies and paint those before assembling the whole model.
4) Be aware of extreme temperatures (inside a car on a hot day) as they can have a tendency to droop.
   
Made in us
Monstrous Master Moulder





Utah

I have some DKoK and they are great to work with but very small.

I was super careful when I washed them (just used dish soap) since they are very small and some parts are fragile.

With these I recommend using an x-acto knife since you have a bit more control (at least I do).

I assembled mine fully since there really isn't much I couldn't reach with ease but it may vary on the model. Just depends if it easier to paint partially assembled or not.

I had a few bent parts but I just held them over a humidifier and SLOWLY bent them into place. They are really nice high quality models so not much to complain about (except for the stupid release agent... just wash them really well).

 
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator





Philadelphia

If I might, I have a followup question.

I'm going to be working on a dkok army as well and wanted to know how people tackle removing the huge vent pieces from the models - do you saw, xacto blade, snip them?

I know that the resin dust is not good for you, do you also wear a mask or similar any time you're cleaning mold lines, etc?

Thanks for any tips/tricks

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Made in au
Bounding Dark Angels Assault Marine





Australia

i know this is a terrible question and i feel like a dummy, but what does washing the models actually do?

3500 (ish) points
who-knows-how-many points random stuff  
   
Made in us
Did Fulgrim Just Behead Ferrus?





Fort Worth, TX

It gets rid of the mold release coating. The molds are sprayed with a release agent before the resin is added, to help the parts come out of the molds easier. There's usually still some residue of this stuff on the models. If not washed off, it can prevent paint from sticking to the model.

It may or may not be safe to lick your models until this residue has been cleaned off.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/10/21 02:10:38


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Made in au
Bounding Dark Angels Assault Marine





Australia

oh ok, thanks

3500 (ish) points
who-knows-how-many points random stuff  
   
Made in us
Monstrous Master Moulder





Utah

 Cruentus wrote:
If I might, I have a followup question.

I'm going to be working on a dkok army as well and wanted to know how people tackle removing the huge vent pieces from the models - do you saw, xacto blade, snip them?

I know that the resin dust is not good for you, do you also wear a mask or similar any time you're cleaning mold lines, etc?

Thanks for any tips/tricks


I never wore a mask but if you are worried it wouldn't hurt to wear a mask.

I clipped off the big pieces just using a pair of clippers I use to cut stuff off of the plastic sprues normally. I had to be careful on a couple spots since it was connected to a really fragile spot and I used an x-acto knife.

 
   
Made in us
Navigator





Fingernail clippers work pretty well on some delicate parts as well.
   
Made in sg
Imperial Recruit in Training



Singapore

Ah thanks for the in put guys!

Just another quick question, would the typical type of paints be fine for Resins? Or is there any other better suited paint for the job?

Cheers!
   
Made in us
Navigator





I've used the normal hobby paints. Resin is a type of plastic basically, and a good primer will help them adhere all the better.
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

 Cruentus wrote:
I know that the resin dust is not good for you, do you also wear a mask or similar any time you're cleaning mold lines, etc?
There isn't a single particulate that's isn't bad to inhale, but the oft touted carcinogenic qualities of model resins aren't really an issue for your average hobbyist. Clipping, shaving, and filing don't produce fine enough particles to cause worry - gravity alone keeps them out of your airways. Powered fine-grit sanding is about the only time I'd bother with respiratory protection and even then, simple mechanical filtration (cheap, disposable dust mask) is plenty (you're dealing with dust, not fumes). I'd also recommend eye protection, in that case, which guards against the more likely of potential problems.

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Made in gb
Using Inks and Washes





Duxford, Cambs, UK

And even with sanding of resin, there is minimal risk if you do it wet as the water will 'wet out' the resin dust and stop it getting into the air at all.

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