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Hi, does anyone know how metal come, are they one a sprue like the plastic ones or do they come separate but if they don't how do you get them off the spure thing as I haven't made a metal model yet. Thanks

They come separate

They come separate, Just make sure not to use plastic bonding glue on them and remove the flash

Thanks seems now like metal models may be in my future any brands of good metal glue for assembling them or does normal super glue work.

Any will do 6 tubes for a pound at pound land or £1.29 at pound stretcher just make sure you wear some latex like gloves because they have a tendency to leak a little when you put the lid back on and I nearly glued my self to the tube lol

Metal models don't come on a full sprue, like plastic, but many will still have little tabs and vents attached, which need to be removed. Diagonal cutters and a file, a razor/jeweler's saw, or heavy duty flush cutters will take care of the large ones (thinner ones can simply be torn/sliced off - the metal is soft - and the nubs filed down) and a hobby knife and files will knock down flash and mold lines.

Superglue is the weapon of choice for attachment. Some prefer gap-filling gel types, others use plain old liquid CAs, relying on putty or thorough part prep for good contact. High-stress joints may require pinning, which has been covered ad nauseum elsewhere.

Oadie pretty much summed up everything you need to know. I would add only a few things.

1) Don't use the same clippers for metal as plastic
2) Any superglue will technically work, but consider picking up a rubberized superglue such as "Gorilla Impact Tough" or BSI (IC2000) They will take a bit longer to set, but the rubber in the glue will make the joins less brittle.

Candle_man wrote:
Any will do 6 tubes for a pound at pound land or £1.29 at pound stretcher just make sure you wear some latex like gloves because they have a tendency to leak a little when you put the lid back on and I nearly glued my self to the tube lol

It's a right of passage! You aren't a true miniature wargamer until you've glued your hand to the table/miniature/pants/etc...

Kids these days with their plastic kits. Back in my day we had LEAD minis, and we liked it fine that way. Hardly any brain damage <twitch>

/oldmanrant.

Superglue, clippers, knife, and a small file set are all you need. Do be careful though. It is a different material, so you don't want your knife/file slipping and cutting/stabbing yourself because you used the wrong amount of force. When clipping, be wary of flying bits. And if the metal minis are really old, and actualy lead, be careful with clean up and washing afterwords.

Thanks for the heads up and are they lead actualy thats weird but lead is soft. Ill need new glue as mine is buggered.

No, they aren't actually lead anymore (well, not GW anyway).
There was a big push to get lead out of toy soldiers back in the 90s.
They have replaced it with other toxic metals (that just don't accumulate like lead) like bismuth (which has similar casting properties). The lead used to be for detail retention (the tin for hardness and the third/fourth metals for flow control properties).

Some companies DO still use a tin/lead/whatever alloy and these are usually plainly marked as "This is NOT a toy: contains lead" (toys cannot contain lead. NOT toys can. It's a legal thing with definitions and stuff).

Superglue will be fine - but you will need to ensure that the pieces fit closely together as regular superglue is crap at filling gaps (the bigger the gap, the weaker the bond).

Candle_man wrote:
Any will do 6 tubes for a pound at pound land or £1.29 at pound stretcher just make sure you wear some latex like gloves because they have a tendency to leak a little when you put the lid back on and I nearly glued my self to the tube lol

pound land super glue (x6) have a habit of splitting if you put too much pressure on them. My advice is use once then throw away.

LumbarGibbon wrote:
Thanks seems now like metal models may be in my future any brands of good metal glue for assembling them or does normal super glue work.

As you're in the UK then get some Wilko superglue. Awesome strong stuff and 20g for about a fiver. Much better than the stuff that's practically water from Poundland et al.

I use Krazy glue with a brush applicator. I used to use tiny bottles, but like the control the brush gives. Remember, less is more when glueing stuff.

Unless the mins you are getting are really old, odds are they are not really lead. As was stated above, they stopped using lead in minis back a loooong time ago.

And use a knife with a changable blade - then change the blade regularly.

You are more likely to cut yourself with a dull blade than a sharp one. A dull blade forces you to use more pressure to make the cut and that means you are more likely to slip, or have the blade break, and therefore more likely to cut yourself.

LumbarGibbon wrote:
Thanks seems now like metal models may be in my future any brands of good metal glue for assembling them or does normal super glue work.

Yeah, Gorilla Glue and Krazy glue are quite hard to find in the UK.

I'd recommend popping into your local Modelzone and getting some of their 'thick' superglue. It'll stay where you want it and fill tiny gaps more than most regular superglues.