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Hello all
Recently I decided that I would begin to break away from the citadel paint range, and picked up a pot of Tamya flat black. All was going well for a while until I noticed that when I brushed it on, if, a few seconds later I rebrushed the same area, say i'd missed a spot, the brush would take the paint off. Is this normal? It never happened to my chaos black.
Is there something I'm missing? Could someone please explain why this happens, as it means that in order for me to cover an area I have to paint over it many times.
Thank you

Let it dry longer would be my guess.

Is it a resin fig not washed well? How was it primed?

If you want to try new paints, try Vallejo and don't look back.

They're metal stormtroopers that have been given a coat of GW Balor brown

@death; this is after like 3 or so seconds when I go back to thin out the paint on the model

@renfro; I'll been looking out for them

Hey

As far as i'm aware, Tamiya is a paint line for replica model cars, and is used in air brushes. It might not be the best brush-on paint. I would go with Vallejo.

I would let it dry a little more between coats. I have been having the same issue with the reaper light flesh and I found that if I paint one set of arms then set them down and grab another then go back i don't get that problem. Try it, do a light coat then put it down to dry and go back to it and do another coat and see if that works.


Are you using drying retarder?

If it's a metal model always make sure to wash it with some soap and water to let it dry. Sometimes there is an oily residue that remains on it after casting and it slicks paint off like nothing.

Greasy residue will definitely decrease (if not completely negate) paint adhesion, as it seems you're already well aware, but it sounds to me like you need to give it either more (to let it dry) or less (so that it's still entirely fluid) time before retouching the same area.

I'd also suggest that "[going] back to thin out the paint on the model" is a less than ideal method. A feel for paint dilution, proper brush load, and the ability to lay down thin, even coats are all crucial skills for a miniature painter and well worth the effort to develop.

Greasy residue will definitely decrease (if not completely negate) paint adhesion

He already stated that it was base coated with brown. Im thinking that residue isn't the issue.

I found that tamiya paints, when I last used them at least, have some solvent in them, they tended to bugger up the coat beneath. I still use their clear gloss paints, but limit it to a single coating only.

I watered down my paint a little bit and it works lots better now
Thanks for your help

 Deathshead420 wrote:

Greasy residue will definitely decrease (if not completely negate) paint adhesion

He already stated that it was base coated with brown. Im thinking that residue isn't the issue.

It's called a segue...

Glad you got the issue sorted out, undead flesh addict.

Tamiya paints are alcohol based. Do not expect particularly good behaviour when thinning with water.

The tearing you're getting is because you're not letting each layer dry properly. As mentioned Tamiya are not the most convenient of paints to use with a brush. Because Tamiya surface dry very fast (alcohol evaporates quickly) they are more prone to this. Also prone are Vallejo liquid gold and gunze-sangyo (mr color) paints.

Just to be clear, the tearing here has NOTHING to do with your surface prep, it's simply the way the paint behaves.

Brush painting is easier with water based acrylics (note this isn't quite the same as water-soluble!). Vallejo Model Color, model air, game color, andrea, p3, citadel, etc etc. Avoid humbrol, and revel acrylics. They're gak.