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I live on norway and I want to re-do some models that have to many layers of paint on them. Is there any way to do that? All the resepies online refer to some forgin suplies.

Over here in Sweden I buy "red ethanol" at the gas station, says 95% ethanol on the bottle. Doesn't damage plastic either, no matter how long you soak stuff in it. Scrubbing with a toothbrush and leaving to resoak for a bit is sometimes necessary.

Rødsprit? "Rødsprit er 95% denaturert etylalkohol, etanol (C2H5OH)." I gues so.

Thanks man. Although that smells terrible, I will need to get a lid jar.

Does it harm the models? Have you tryed it yourself?

 Niiai wrote:
Rødsprit? "Rødsprit er 95% denaturert etylalkohol, etanol (C2H5OH)." I gues so.

Yep, that's the stuff.

Thanks man. Although that smells terrible, I will need to get a lid jar.

I use glass jars with metal lid, just washed out old foodstuff jars from pickles, jams, etc.

Does it harm the models? Have you tryed it yourself?

Doesn't harm models at all, got three jars worth of stuff soaking as we speak, haven't touched some of it in months. Normally only takes overnight, if even that, but I just leave stuff in there if I'm not in a rush to get painting/modeling it.

Hi ethyl alcohol or also called ethanol isnt working overly well. if you manage to get your hands on something containing isoproyl alcohol that would work well. do you know somebody working in a lab? or look around the cleaning products section in your local stores for something with a high percentage isopropyl alcohol in it.

Hey thanks man.

It apears it is common in some household/car suplies.

Here in the US we (atleast my circle of friends) use the cleaner "Pine-sol". Its a floor cleaner. As far as I can tell, if you leave plastic in too long (2-3 days) you may lose some minor detail but strips metals just fine. Not sure about finecast though. Dont think its been tried yet. Gets under glue and softens it up so you can break/scrape it of.

OK. How about clear plastic stands if you want to strip a model stuck on a stand?

i love norwegian stripping models............

 Kizmet wrote:
i love norwegian stripping models............

We are after all trying to achieve greatness with our models do we not?

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/6213222.stm

Regarding clear plastic stands and iso propyl alcohol: i think its fine if you dont use it too long.
as for fine cast be very careful. it will soften considerably when used to long. i stripped finecast models successfully with iso propyl alcohol when soaking them for a few hours but when immersed for longer they get very soft.
interesting however is that finecast regains its stiffness after several weeks. if you want to repose fincast models and have a lot of time that might actually work ^^

 Niiai wrote:


We are after all trying to achieve greatness with our models do we not?

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/6213222.stm

norway is my new hero

To avoid any problems with ruining your models, use brake fluid.

I tell people this all the time, and cannot believe it is not more widely-known.

You can soak for as long as you want, will not damage plastics. Normally, an overnight soak followed by light toothbrush/rinse and it takes everything off. If an overnight soak does not get all the layers, do another soak, or simply a longer soak.

The way the brake fluid works is by getting between the layers, so if you put stuff in there, and then take it out and let it dry for awhile before rubbing the paint off (some will come off on its own) it may stick back to the plastics when it dries off.

Added bonus: if you strain out the paint bits that are left behind in the fluid, you can use the fluid over and over, as it will not mix with the paint.

I have used all kinds of stripping methods, including denatured alcohol, brake fluid and Fairy Power Spray (should be available in Norway).

All things considered, power spray is my favorite method, although it must be noted that I use it with an ultrasonic cleaner.

I tryed with something containing etanol, 2-propanol and butanol.

It disolves glue mutch fatser then it disolves the paint on the models. Since I am stripping dark eldars all the parts come off faster then the paint, also some of the softer parts become soft and bend. I think perhaps this will have to do. I'll just paint over the old layer.

you can always use dettol or get some oven degreaser... before using it test it on some sprue or a model you dont care about

 vyndetta85 wrote:
Here in the US we (atleast my circle of friends) use the cleaner "Pine-sol". Its a floor cleaner. As far as I can tell, if you leave plastic in too long (2-3 days) you may lose some minor detail but strips metals just fine. Not sure about finecast though. Dont think its been tried yet. Gets under glue and softens it up so you can break/scrape it of.

Pewter is fine, but plastic is dangerous. I had a few models soak for a couple hours and the Pine sol had already absorbed into a lot of the detail, sponge like. It bloated the details to the point of filing. It was weird because it only did it to the older models of the bunch. The darker grey plastic seemed to fair pretty good. If you can get Simple Green, that stuff works well and won't damage models.

25-T111 GUNZE T111, Mr. AQUEOUS HOBBY COLOR THINNER 400 (400 ML)

This is the weapon of choice when it comes to stripping paint. You don't have to dip the mini in it or wait overnight. Just dip a toothbrush and rub the mini. It will eat acrylics with minimal effort and it will not harm plastic. I used it to strip a rhino and 3 grey knight terminators to bare plastic and it took me less than 30 mins. It looks a bit costly for a 400ml bottle but in the long run it will save you a lot of money on brake fluids and a lot of time and frustration.