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Made in us
Neophyte Undergoing Surgeries






So lately I've been working on some of my favorite primarchs, and in the search for inspiration, I stumbled upon fellow named Freakforge who made a few of the primarchs almost entirely out of greenstuff, and in incredible detail. I love how he did his, and would like to do something similar, but I have no idea how he did it. I've done a little bit of work with greenstuff, but nothing big like that. Could anyone big me any advice on how to do such solid edges and such fine details. Thanks in advance
   
Made in se
Regular Dakkanaut






To make GS more solid you'll have to mix in another putty, personally I use milliput. Sharp knife, files and sandpaper for forming it, then lastly 1200 grit sandpaper for a supersmooth finish. If you're using regular GS you can still get sharp corners by cutting carefully.

As for detail, depends what you're doing, but sculpting tools and a steady hand helps. Other than that, practice practice practice.
   
Made in au
Lady of the Lake






Generally I think it was GS for more organic sculpting and muliput for more mechanical like plating. Then using something like a blade after letting it cure a bit so it's still workable, but will hold the sharper edge better.

   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Sharp edges are, as mentioned, better left to other materials. GS works like taffy and cures like rubber - fine for more organic shapes, but it makes sculpting a sharp edge pretty much impossible, outright, and it doesn't take well to filing or sanding. There are a number of putties that work more like clay and cure more like hard plastic or porcelain, which makes for better initial definition while sculpting and allows you to refine the shape post-cure with abrasives. To get something in the middle, you can mix putties, like Johnno does. If you look at the "greens" of professional sculptors, you'll usually see varying shades of green, as well as occasional bits of brown or other colors - that's a result of varying the GS mix ratio, including additives, and using other putties, altogether, depending on the task at hand. The fact that weapons and the like are usually some other color should be a decent indication of the limitations of GS.

As far as fine detail is concerned, a variety of fine-tipped (note that the entire head needn't necessarily be small - a kitchen knife would be unwieldy, but may have as fine a point as your hobby knife) sculpting tools certainly helps, but it mostly comes down to skill. Luckily, for those of us without an inordinate amount of talent, there's practice.

There are other important tidbits, like lubricating your tools, working at the most suitable point in the cure, and working in layers, but those have been covered ad nauseum in more general GS primers, if you don't already know them. Then again, so has much of what I've already said... Guess I'm finished, then.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Also, don't forget things like wire, sheet metals and plasticard.

If I need to do something which is big and flat - I can mess around with a putty of one form or another...fudge with it and get what I am after following a long cure period, or...

I can cut it out of sheet brass or plasticard and get on with it. I use metal if I am planning on doing conventional vulcanized molds and plasticard if it is for a one-off or resin cast.

Details of course are a matter of practice. You need to get a feel for how you want the putty to be when you do each type of detailing. Somethings work best when it is still somewhat soft and sticky (sticky putt can help when doing fur for example) other you want it to be fairly hard. You will need small tools in order to do small details. I like to beat mine out of brass rod, tubing and other metal bits.

If you are looking to do something like really detailed armor, you will often want both sides to look pretty close to the same. In those cases I will roll out a hunk of Sculpey and carve and otherwise shape that into a flat example of what I am after. Cook that. Apply some mold release, mix up some GS and let it sit up slightly (10-15 minutes maybe) and then smoosh it into the "mold". Pop that off, trim the waste and apply it to the arm/leg/forearm... Repeat again and apply to the other arm/leg/forearm. Same pattern on both - nice and simple. Just keep in mind, you are working in negative when creating a mold. If you want something to stick out on the armor you need to cut in on the mold.
   
 
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