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I put together a bunch of orks like 10 years ago when i was like 12 and they all looked like crap. i striped them all with simple green and i took all but 2 ork apart by puting them in the freezer.

I dont know whats wrong with these last 2 models but i cant get the arms off. Theyve been in the freezer foreve. The arms have ripped a little bit ( which i can fix) from me trying to break them off but its not happening.

Any advice?

I know its superglue because i never used that plastic weld stuff or anything else other than model glue but thats easy to take apart.

Usually it seems like twisting and shearing works better for super glue than pulling things apart.

No clue if that was helpful or not...

If they're the peter models I recommend nail polish remover 100% acetone. It strips paint and takes off super glue. DO NOT USE ON PLASTIC MODELS.

Try a precision screwdriver and a hammer. Use the screwdriver as a chisel, and tap lightly with the hammer.

I like concentrated engine degreaser - both for stripping paint and removing all kinds of glue.

Just be careful as it can cause nasty chemical burns.

I stripped and separated some old Thousand Sons the other day. I used Dettol to remove the paint, and bioling water for the superglue.

They don't just "fall apart" but it was pretty easy. Get a kettle and a small container. Put the models in the small container. Boil kettle. Tip water in container. Refill the kettle and boil. Replace the water in your container with new boiling stuff.

After doing this a couple of times, the models should come apart quite easily with some gentle twisting.

At least that was my experience. I found the hardest parts to be arms holding guns, where I had previously glued the arm joints, and each of the hands to the gun. Made it hard to get the required twist.

You can also put em in the freezer can help make the glue brittle enough to break apart.

GENTLY try and pop them off with some clippers though I can not stress the word gently enough

that or, if you can, just try to chop them off

Put them in the freezer, it weakens the super glue. If you'd used plastic cement, you'd be stuffed.

Acitone. You can use Fingernail polish remover as that is basically diluted acitone designed to be safe to use and dispose of.

The OP has already stated that he put them in the freezer! OK, there is no indication if that was once, or several cycles of freeze/thaw.

And as to the nail polish remover idea, most nail polish removers, certainly here in the UK, are now Acetone free. I don't know how effective Acetone free remover will be on superglue, or paint. Might be a lucky break though as Acetone will certainly damage Styrene plastic models as could boiling water.

Styrene has a glass transition temperature around that of boiling water and would certainly soften at that temperature so you could end up with fingerprints or tool marks in the models. Also you are quite able to seriously scald yourself in water at only 80°C, so I'd take that suggestion with a pinch of salt.

Wet them then stick them in the freezer.
the water will get in to the cracks then expand as it freezes.
Also the super glue will be made brittle by the cold.

Denguin wrote:

I dont know whats wrong with these last 2 models but i cant get the arms off. Theyve been in the freezer forever. The arms have ripped a little bit ( which i can fix) from me trying to break them off but its not happening.

Any advice?

 darefsky wrote:
You can also put em in the freezer can help make the glue brittle enough to break apart.

Skulleater wrote:
Put them in the freezer, it weakens the super glue. If you'd used plastic cement, you'd be stuffed.

 bubber wrote:
Wet them then stick them in the freezer.

Are you sure it was superglue and not plastic glue?

I've separated and stripped many models, both metal and plastic. If a long soak in simple green hasn't made the joints brittle enough to separate, then you are likely not dealing with superglue.

You mention "model glue". I assume you are talking about Testors or some similar sticky glue. Model glue is a plastic sovlent. If the parts aren't well matched then sometimes it can be easy to remove as it's only the gummy part of the model being attached. However, if the parts meet well, them model glue will bond them together better than superglue.

If this is the case, then soaking, freezing, etc will not work. The two parts have been bonded into one and it's time to get out the exacto knife and razor saw. I recommend a large exacto (I use the excell brand from HB, but it's the same) chisel blade as it allows you to push strait down onto a cutting board. pointy blades with their low angle don't give the same control. In the picture below, the recommended blades are the second and third from the left and the one on the red handled knife.


For maximum precision, a razor saw will allow you to carefully cut apart the arms. A razor saw takes a bit longer, but gives much more control and leaves you with nice smooth sides. Something like this, though I don't bother with the handle. holding the blade in your palm give you much more control and a blade is only 4-6 bucks.