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Hey guys,

I've started stripping my models. Most are in a bath now. I took out my first batch and about 3/4 stripped just fine. Some others however the primer would not budge. I use LA's Totally Awesome atm. I might move to a higher brand. But what should i use for a good primer. I found my old can and its Krylon Flat Black. What is the best for an amateur painter. GW's Primer is too expensive for my tastes. Cheers!

I use the Kylon Flat black for my models and it works just fine TBH. GW primer is nice for sure but you're right too much money. I'd test your krylon first on some spur before doing it on you models. Old cans of spray paint may not be as good quality. I'd just get a fresh can if i were you.

Krylon flat or ultra flat is the best I've found. I used to use Quikcolor, when I lived in Florida, but I can't find the stuff out here on the west coast.

GW "primer," unless they've recently changed the formulation and I missed the memo, is just plain old spray paint with none of the superior adhesion and resilience of a specifically formulated primer. If that's all you're looking for, head over to the nearest Walmart (unless you're way out in the boonies, you have one nearby) and pick up a can of ColorPlace spray. $.99 for a full-sized can and it goes on thin and smooth with minimal fuss. I'd use a real primer for metal models (at least, if they're destined for the tabletop and not the display cabinet), but it holds up perfectly well on plastic, especially with varnish over the top.

I've seen plenty of support for Krylon here on Dakka (and ColorPlace, as well, but Krylon seems somewhat more common), but you simply can't beat a buck per can. Since it works perfectly well, I see no reason to spend more, even just a dollar or two more, for similar results.

GW "primer," unless they've recently changed the formulation and I missed the memo, is just plain old spray paint with none of the superior adhesion and resilience of a specifically formulated primer. If that's all you're looking for, head over to the nearest Walmart (unless you're way out in the boonies, you have one nearby) and pick up a can of ColorPlace spray. $.99 for a full-sized can and it goes on thin and smooth with minimal fuss. I'd use a real primer for metal models (at least, if they're destined for the tabletop and not the display cabinet), but it holds up perfectly well on plastic, especially with varnish over the top.

I've seen plenty of support for Krylon here on Dakka (and ColorPlace, as well, but Krylon seems somewhat more common), but you simply can't beat a buck per can. Since it works perfectly well, I see no reason to spend more, even just a dollar or two more, for similar results.

I TOTALLY AGREE!!!!

The stuff from GW os OK, but I can buy 9 cans of stuff from Wal-mart for the same price. HMMM 9 : 1 ratio...

Thanx guys. Yea im sticking wit the krylon flat. So far so good.

I use Krylon Black Primer. It sticks on better than the normal black flat, but be careful because it leaves a slight texture. I stick with it because it sticks on great and the slight texture works for my army.

Has anyone ever used a brush on primer? I was looking into getting a can or whatever size it comes in for some single bits I have that spraying just makes a mess of.

I recently switched from a flat black spray primer to clear gesso (available at most craft stores) brush on primer.
It went on pretty smooth and shrank down while it dried, preserving all of the detail for painting.
I'd try to get a grey color though...easier to see if you missed any spots.

Solomongrundy wrote:Has anyone ever used a brush on primer? I was looking into getting a can or whatever size it comes in for some single bits I have that spraying just makes a mess of.

I use Vallejo's Polyurethane Primer, the black one but it comes in a variety of colours as well as the standard black, grey and white. As the poster above says, it shrinks as it dries and sort of hugs the detail on the model. It can be a bit temperamental and needs drying for a few days before it becomes properly tough, but as long as you're careful and don't scratch the model, it will easily stand up to handling as you paint it. Here's my test model for it.

One that's popular with modellers is Mr. Surfacer, the very fine-grained 1000/1200 ones in particular. Dries rock hard, and is also good for filling small gaps. I've also got some Tamiya stuff, which is apparently similar, although I haven't used it yet.

 LadyCassandra wrote:
I use Vallejo's Polyurethane Primer, the black one but it comes in a variety of colours as well as the standard black, grey and white. As the poster above says, it shrinks as it dries and sort of hugs the detail on the model. It can be a bit temperamental and needs drying for a few days before it becomes properly tough

Vallejo primers takes days to dry properly? Really?

 Anfauglir wrote:
Vallejo primers takes days to dry properly? Really?

They dry to the touch within the normal drying times for acrylic paint, but don't cure properly to a tough finish for a few days. As such, handle it reasonably gently as it can scratch off using your fingernails. Once it has some paint on, it's fine, or after a day or two it cures properly and that's no longer an issue.

Also, Vallejo, just to confuse matters, have some paints which have Primer in their name. Unless it's the Polyurethane Primer, this is just a normal acrylic paint colour with a strange name.

 LadyCassandra wrote:
Unless it's the Polyurethane Primer, this is just a normal acrylic paint colour with a strange name.

A lot of that has to do with who they are selling those "strange named" paints to. Military modelers often prime models with a proper primer - but then end up needing to paint something "primer" color...so they need a paint, that is the color of a real world primer like zinc chromate or something along those lines.

Vallejo primers takes days to dry properly? Really?

Most paints take a lot longer to cure than most people think they do. Most the time it isn't a problem, but if you are switching from types of paint (enamel primer to acrylic top coats...acrylic top coats to oil glazes...urethane primers to oil top coats...) you can get unwanted results. Sometimes it will show as a bit of orange peeling, other times you can notice frosting of the surface. Sometimes nothing at all happens - though that doesn't mean the paint was properly cured.

Seconding Cassandra on the Vallejo polyurethane primer - you do need to wait longer for it to cure, but it's a great product if that's not a problem for you. Airbrushes on so you can control the coat thickness much better than cans, and you can brush it on if you need to or cbf breaking out the airbrush.

I love the vallejo surface primer, its great stuff.

Out of the can I use krylon 2x coat primer from the hardware store for models without fine detail (it takes skill to not spray it on thick).

For detailed models (most figs) I use armory brand primer, which I swear by (unless I need exceptional control, then I use the vallejo surface primer in an airbrush).

I have also used allclad surfacer, and tamyia primer, but find they take special cleaning (allclad is a lacquer) or are a bit tricky to use.

I use the vallejo polyurethane brush on primer as well. I usually let a model dry for a day or two after using it.