Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I'm about to come into possession of my first resin (finecast) models and was wondering if I can use plastic glue on them (and will the effect be the same as with plastic)?

No, plastic glue very specifically dissolves the plastic and allows them to rebond together (from my understanding).

On the plus side, any superglue will work fine (I got one for ~$2 an always been fine)

I use Zap-A-Gap and it works just fine, glued 60+ Forgeworld resin models together with it and they're doing just dandy.

This stuff glues anything to anything. Including fingers to models

Can't find that on Amazon!

Any old super glue should work just fine, just go to a pharmacy or your local hardware store and look for what seems best.

How well does your standard two part epoxy glue work on resin?

 Breotan wrote:
How well does your standard two part epoxy glue work on resin?

Do...

do you mean epoxy putty?

as in green stuff?

Works a charm.

Epoxy cement, Araldite for example, works fine. It is a two part resin that you mix to start it setting. There are slow and fast varieties. The slow takes hours to set. The fast will set in 5-10 minutes.

The main thing with Superglue is that it bonds resin practically instantly. This is a two edged sword since it raises the danger of gluing parts in the wrong position.

If you use epoxy the parts need to be held in position until the cement sets.

I've already got GW thick super glue and thin plastic glue. Will the thick super glue be fine for resin?

Yes citadel super glue works quite well I found, I wouldn't recommend cheap as in £1 shop super glue as it has a habit of leaving arms on the battlefield. That loctite is really good stuff, and I think this is similar to the stuff shown above

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-Super-Glue-Bottle-8000/dp/B0001GRVPK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1358589874&sr=8-2

But any loctite super glue should work well

Goog luck

 Tangent wrote:
I've already got GW thick super glue and thin plastic glue. Will the thick super glue be fine for resin?

Thick super glue will ruin your life.

Remember to learn how to pin!

Well, the buying of the thick super glue over the thin was probably due to how many metal models I used to have, and the thin super glue was sometimes not good enough for those.

And it's funny you mention pinning - I was going to start another thread asking how to do it.

I wouldn't recommend pinning on resin models, as they bend easily and you need to apply a bit of pressure to drill the holes. Pinning is good for metal, however.

I normally use the thick superglue that you can get from the LGS, which is in the purple bottle that they usually have their store's name printed on. Different types in the same range will have different colors. (thin is blue, I think)

But when I don't have any on hand and don't want to make the 35 mile drive to my "local" hobby shop, Crazy Glue works perfectly fine.

Just now, I used GW thick super glue to put together my model that arrived today (the Forgeworld exclusive Skin Wolf model) and it seems to work ok. I'll do some pressure testing tomorrow after it's fully dried. And, of course, now that I better understand how to use the needle-nose applicator (after practice with my thin plastic glue), I wish I had thin super glue, too...

 Breotan wrote:
How well does your standard two part epoxy glue work on resin?

Yes, it works well. I'm not a fan of superglue. I don't like the way it flows or hardens and I don't like the way it works when you have poorly fitted parts. The thing I do like about it is that it dries really fast.

Epoxy glue (araldite or any 5 minute epoxy) I really like the way it flows, I like the way that it's thin when you mix it, thickens up as it gels, then if used carefully can actually glue poorly fitted parts quite well, also it's soft for a while after something is glued so you can actually cut it (superglue goes hard and brittle so tends to crack rather than cut).

The downside, obviously, epoxy takes longer to do. Superglue you just put it on the join, hold it for a bit, done. Epoxy you have to squeeze it on to a mixing surface, find yourself a mixer, mix it for a minute or so, then it usually takes a bit longer to reach it's bonding strength than superglue as well. So if you have lots of small joints, it's really not appropriate as it'll take you far longer to do.

Sometimes I tend to use epoxy simply because I can also use it to fill gaps when joining as well. If you mix it then wait for it to go slightly thicker before you apply it (not too thick otherwise it becomes impossible to use), then apply it thick enough that it can squeeze in to the crevices, stick the bits together, then wait a few more minutes and carefully remove any excess. It's not necessarily the easiest way to fill joins and I take no responsibility if you make a mess, I've been working with epoxy glues for years when doing composites work, so I'm used to how it behaves.

Purifier

This stuff glues anything to anything. Including fingers to models

Yes. Loctite is the best super glue for modeling purpose. They don't fumigate/evaporate and leaves behind finger prints on your model like other brands. This stuff sticks plastic to resin, magnet to plastic, magnet to plastic, etc.

Dont buy GW glues. They suck big time.

Get those thin Tamiya cement /extra thin cement for plastics to plastics.