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Made in us
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South Carolina (upstate) USA

Im about to build a whole new army, and have been tossing around the idea of using clear bases for them. They can be had in all the proper GW sizes (25mm, 40mm, etc), but they are clear acrylic instead of the usual black plastic.

So my question is what glue (or other method) to use to attach the minis to the bases. My time as a scale modeler has taught me that super glue and plastic glue will haze clear plastic. For aircraft canopies I always used white (school) glue, but that wont be strong enough for holding minis onto a base. I know people here have used the clear bases, so any advise would be appreciated.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/02/04 17:37:58


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Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot




San Diego Ca

Liquid Nails or other construction adhesive?

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Death-Dealing Dark Angels Devastator





Super glue will tend not to hase if you use an accelerator like Zap Kicker. Try some on a base that you don't care about first and see how it goes.

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Made in gb
Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle




London, UK

As long as you don't over do it, Humbrol Poly Cement will not cloud plastic.
   
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Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

All of the "clear plastic" modeling adhesives I've seen are, like PVA, meant for attaching glazing to display models - certainly not strong enough for your task. Unfortunately, I have no applicable experience to go on, so I'm just spitballing, here, but I have two thoughts:

- Silicone sealant - You know, the clear caulk. Adheres quite well to smooth surfaces (bathroom tile), so it should handle the acrylic side just fine, and has a bit of flex that should make it pretty resilient. Just not sure how strong the bond to the model's feet will be with a thin application.

-Amazing Goop (craft) - Bonds strongly, but it goes on like rubber cement, making it difficult to apply sufficiently small amounts that it won't ooze out from under the feet (lacks the stiffer body that silicone sealant has). It's recommended for use in jewelry, where clear acrylic is common, so I think it should be safe as far as crazing is concerned. I've only used it on Swarovski crystals, though, so this is conjecture.

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Guardsman with Flashlight




Dayton Ohio

I use jewlers cement used for fixing watch's and clocks. It doesnt haze, and is stronger than white glue.

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Perfect Shot Black Templar Predator Pilot




Roseville, CA

I would try a carefully applied two part epoxy, the clear kind, you can find it at Walmart...it's certainly strong enough for your needs. I've never used it on clear bases, but see no reason for it to haze from a chemical standpoint.
   
Made in jp
[MOD]
Anti-piracy Officer






Somewhere in south-central England.

Try epoxy like BrotherVord suggested.

Don't use E600 as it corrodes polystyrene. Araldite would be better.

Test a clear plastic sprue before you start serious work.

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Made in kr
Basecoated Black




Seoul, South Korea

Virtually every glue will either add material to the bonded surface or dissolve the surface material therefore as soon as you get any glue on the clear plastic you will notice it.
easisiest solution in my opinoon is to use normal plastic glue but aply only to the surface you want to make contact with.
i guess you want to glue things like infantry model onto the clear bases? then try to apply glue only to the feet of the model and wait until it dissolved a bit of the plastic so that the glue isn't as thin anymore but more like a paste. if you then press the model down onto the base carefully you shouldn't have a problem with 'runny' thin glue hazing you plastic in places that you can see later on.

regards
alex
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

There IS a superglue that is formulated for clear parts.
It's made by the Zap mob and is called "plasti-zap" or something similar.

It doesn't fog acetates when used properly, so should not fog any other clear plastic, either.

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