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Made in us
Fighter Pilot




Pennsylvania

I'm an incredibly poor painter; very new to the concept.

Today I tried using Army Painter Daemonic Yellow to prime a test model. Long story short, it ended up pooling in places and looking wrinkly when it dried.

I need to get good coverage, because the yellow is going to be the primary color that is showing, but I don't want to ruin the models with poor priming leading to said wrinkling/obstruction of detail.

Thanks!

-Captgrey

Gunline IG 1850 pts
Elysian IG 3000 pts
Horus Heresy Imperial Fists 500 pts

W/L/D: 35/6/4 
   
Made in us
Flashy Flashgitz





USA

Multiple thin coats... Never spray so close as to allow the paint to pool. Likewise dont hold the can still, you want to make passes over the area rather than start and stop spraying with the model in the line of fire.

7 Armies 30,000+

, , , , , , ,  
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






i have had major issues with that daemonic yellow from army painter (destroyed a full squad and melted my models :() It may be best not to use that brand. But standard procedure would be shake the can very well, spray at room temperature and at a good (I believe) 10 inchs away and spray multiple thin coats.


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

I'm not sure that the Army Painter Yellow is a primer. For Yellow, you'll want to prime with white, almond, or possibly Khaki ... experiment a bit.

Spray outside on day that isn't too cold, too hot, or too humid.

I tend to spray from 6-8 inches away. A couple of passes one way, rotate the tray 90 degrees, spray, rotate, etc. Once the figures have gotten a ful coat, I let them dry then turn them over and repeat.

   
Made in us
Fighter Pilot




Pennsylvania

So now I just spray a few layers head on, then side, then back, then the other side?

Won't that lead to me having defined pools at the edges of each quadrant?

Gunline IG 1850 pts
Elysian IG 3000 pts
Horus Heresy Imperial Fists 500 pts

W/L/D: 35/6/4 
   
Made in au
PanOceaniac Hacking Specialist Sergeant




Lake Macquarie, NSW

The idea is to not spray so heavily and close that it pools.

"Going to war without France is like going deer hunting without your accordion."
-Norman Schwartzkopf

W-L-D: 0-0-0. UNDEFEATED 
   
Made in us
Fighter Pilot




Pennsylvania

 Dheneb wrote:
The idea is to not spray so heavily and close that it pools.


But then won't the thin layers come out and be all speckeled?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/02/07 02:40:48


Gunline IG 1850 pts
Elysian IG 3000 pts
Horus Heresy Imperial Fists 500 pts

W/L/D: 35/6/4 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut




 CaptainGrey wrote:
 Dheneb wrote:
The idea is to not spray so heavily and close that it pools.


But then won't the thin layers come out and be all speckeled?


In my experience it only goes grainy or speckled as you put it; if you spray into an enclosed box or if you hold the can too far away. Spray on a flat open surface, and hold it about 6-8" away(best to be about 8" in my experience.)
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Hi CaptainGrey, i am using platemail primer by Army Painter on my SM army i'm working on at the moment. It took me a while to get used to the technique, i found the best technique was spray sweeps over the model not spraying straight at it, at a distance of around 8 inches is the best way to get the best coverage. I messed up an area on the back of my ironclad dreadnought due to starting to spray directly at it. Hope that helps.
   
Made in us
Growlin' Guntrukk Driver with Killacannon





prime models on sprue whenever you can ..with multple very light coats ..


Automatically Appended Next Post:
May need to pre prime with a nice neutral color then go with army yellow

i find that automotive grey primer works the best for most models..

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/02/08 01:16:57


'\' ~9000pts
'' ~1500
"" ~3000
"" ~2500
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





A cheap single action airbrush and canned air can be had for priming models. Use vellejo acrylic-polyurethane surface primer paint.
It's cheap than buy canned primer since the bottled primer goes further. No more speckled coats and unless you just hose a model to death it shouldn't run or pool.

I prime my Imperial Fist with Vellejo surface primer "German Dark Yellow" then I spray Gold yellow over that once everything is primed.
   
Made in au
Freaky Flayed One



Australia

Putting the spray can into a cup of hot water beforehand for about a minute tends to help against the clumping/speckling as well. Try to find a neutral-ish weather day too.

I personally use White Knight Squirts flat enamel as it's the only non-GW brand local to me that anyone recommends (until Masters opened up) and I find it does the job.

With the heatwave going on in Aus I've had to delay spraying for a week or so too :(

DR:70+S--G-M-B++IPw40k03--D++A+/fWD-R-T(R)DM+ 
   
 
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