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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




So I've never done any sort of modelling before, this is all new to me. My friend (who's also new) and I both bought the new Dark Vengeance starter boxes from GW.

We've been assembling them over the weekend, and over the last couple days he managed to get all 48 of his minis assembled and glued in the time it took me to do about 12. I thought maybe he wasn't taking the time to smooth down the sprue attachment points, but it looks like he was.

Dang, I guess I'm slow! One thing that's taking up my time is obsessively trying to smooth the parts where the sprue attached and get rid of the very obvious mould lines. I use the scraping method I found in some threads here, angling my xacto blade opposite the direction I'm pulling it, but sometimes I still feel like I'm making a mess of the model (though it usually looks mostly fine after priming). Is it supposed to be one or two strong precise motions? Or repeated quick motions until desired effect?

Also on the mould lines, I've only been getting rid of the ones in the smooth open obvious areas. Like marine legs, pauldrons, and helmets. The ones on the rigid, non-consistent surfaces like chaos cultist baggy pants seem too challenging. I'm afraid of damaging the details. Do you guys get these parts too?

Any feedback is appreciated, thanks.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/02/10 05:56:34


 
   
Made in us
Drakhun





Eaton Rapids, MI

Yep. Having the right tools helps a bunch.

I have a set of small hobby files, but most times the back of an exacto blade does the trick.

As to the amount of time it takes, it will get faster over time, but everyone works at their own pace.

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Made in us
Dakka Veteran






On ridges just use a small file, and using the back of the hobby knife is best on smooth surfaces like SM. And since you're new, then I'll just take a moment to say: PLEASE DON'T DO GREY KNIGHTS. So many people are doing them it's terrible, and the current lore makes no sense. Also, read up on the lore, it's pretty good as long as it's not by Matt Ward.
   
Made in us
Lead-Footed Trukkboy Driver



Oklahoma

Take your time. by all means take your time and get into the habit of doing it right the first time every time. speed comes with experience.

It sounds to me like your going about everything the right way instead of the buddy I restarted with who is too impatient and wouldn't do more than cut, assemble and spray paint them a solid color. He's gotten better now, but its an uphill climb for him as he has to break old bad habits to develop good new ones.
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




Thanks for the responses. Just one more question. Are you guys able to avoid getting glue on your fingers? Working with plastic glue there's not too much consequence to it, but I was thinking with super glue (which I've never worked with before) that it would probably be bad.

I got the paint/supplies starter from GW, and the glue it came with doesn't have that neat needle extruder, so often even the smallest amount I can squeeze out is too much and some inevitably ends up on my hands. Just wondering if most people work clean.
   
Made in gb
Death-Dealing Devastator






Rather than trying to put glue straight on the model from the bottle, you may wish to put a little glue in an old bottle top and use a cocktail stick to precision apply where you want it.

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






Don't use superglue on plastic models. GW glue may be crap, but it's still okay for some things. And I agree with what Tarthenal said, use an old bottlecap to hold some glue and then a stick to apply.
   
 
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