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Army painter is known for their ability to batch paint. But it is a touch pricey. I have used Krylon before and love it. But I have never used their Plastic Fusion. I really want to pull of an effect like this but I am really not sure if Krylon will work. There is an abundance of it near me and it is pretty cheap. So what do you think? Will Krylon be able to batch paint my armies the same was that Army Painter could? Or would I be better off buying army paitner?

I see no reason why it wouldn't work. From the distance recommended in the article, you wouldn't have to worry about getting too much paint on the model which seems to be my issue with rattle cans. I'd do just like he says to in the article, do a test model first. I plan on doing a similar thing with my airbrush on some Blood/Sky Claws.

It'll look awesome, hoping for pictures!

Thanks. I do have a great model to test it on, no idea how I acquire it either. Right now I am just trying to decide what chapter to paint them :/ its rough.

Another big fan of krylon. I haven't tried the fusion but I use black and white from the normal line and really like the ruddy brown primer for things that are majority brown to bone. I think it would work, and am looking forward to seeing how it turns out for you.

Well if you're looking for a chapter to do, I've heard good things about...oh I think they're called...Space Wolves. Yeah, that's it. So I hear...

I've tried Krylon Plastic Fusion and instantly regretted it. With the exception of some topcoat, I have never had a good experience with Krylon. On the other hand, I'm a total shill for Rustoleum. I've found their spray paint gives a much better finish for minis. I also think I get more life from the cans, but that might very well just be subjective.

Krylon is great. That article you linked states that the painter just uses whatever paint he finds in the right color.

That's what I thought. I will definitely try it.

I like both krylon and rustoleum sprays. I use them alot, especially the camo colors The one thing to remember is that sometimes the hardware store sprays come out a bit faster than the model sprays.

Not a huge deal, but just remember to compensate for that and you should be fine.

I've not had much luck with Krylon. For me, in Texas, it's very finnicky in regards to humidity (we have a lot of it) and ends up with white splotches in places at the best of time.

I switched to Duplicolor Sandable Black Primer and that was a smooth, eggshell like black coating. It also sprays in a fan instead of a circle for less waste of primer.

I haven't had the same issues with it here in southern Illinois and its reasonably humid here. Is bummer, its good paint. I think the newer cans mostly have the rotatable fan spray too.

I am a huge fan of both Krylon and Rustoleum camo colors as well as few others.

Big fan of Krylon and Rustoleum. All I use anymore is Krylon (Rustoleum is a smidge pricier).

Still waiting for the temperature top be by just right so I don't have any other variables.

Just tried this technique with my airbrush. Very quick and easy. Makes for very dramatic shadows and highlights for sure. Had to adapt it a little for my airbrush, but worked well. I'll be doing this from now on for sure. Including set up and clean up, 30-40 minutes to basecoat and highlight 10 man assault squad is pretty good IMO.

Could you explain your technique a bit? I have been wondering how to go about spraying overhead. Should I use the trick where you stick them to the cardboard by spraying it a little. Or just figure out how to hold it over them.

Well, I'm still working it out as I don't have a very good airbrush. I basically did the same thing he did, just held it closer. I had my marines pegged on a cork, or clamped in some tweezers and just sprayed straight down but moved it around so it would hit on the front where his arms are, and the back for parts of his legs. For the lower half, I held it at a 45 degree angle and did the same thing.

It takes practice, some of my models don't have a very good gradient, some turned out a bit bland too on the upper half, especially beakie helmets. Though I think I was a bit heavy handed with the highlight.

However, when it works, it looks great! I don't know that I got particularly close to what he achieved but I'm sure I will after another unit or two. I hope I explained that clearly enough. It seems tough until you start. I'll admit too, that it is a bit weird because some parts will have far less base coat than you're used to with other methods. The shins on my running marines that face down, have quite a bit of primer showing, the model definitely looks grey, and it doesn't look like I just missed a spot.

A $10 single action airbrush and canned air will make doing this sort of thing with any color you want clean and simple.

In fact the $20 dual action airbrush I got from harbor freight came with a canned air adaptor. Although I have a compressor.

I used to use canned sprays but was always something. Too much humidity, wrong temperature, finding colors. Eventually I just decided with the cost of the models going cheap on the paint side was silly.

I mean let's say I bought a $50 model. Spend a week or so on and off assembling, and painting. Now it's time to varnish...spray...UH OH the humidity was wrong now all my work has been turned into frosty the snow tank.

I had this happen to a entire squad of dark eldar. No amount of gloss spray, etc was ever going to get them back right again.

I mean I had good results with Krylon. But when the 4th squad suddenly frosts, or the primers speckles them etc. It's just not worth the time and headache.

Not everyone wants to learn how to paint details with an airbrush but just for base color, primer, and varnishes it's priceless. Plus you can Zenithial highlight to your hearts content with multiple shades.