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As the title says.

Does the stuff work all that well, in particular for small recesses on metal or plastic?

how well does it hold up to sanding or filing?

I've used Reaper's version, and it's nothing that revolutionized how I build models, but it's decently effective. It doesn't cut well, but filing works well with it.

I've used it on plastic and metal, with no problems.

I like it. It seems very situational. But it makes a nice component to regular green stuff. I like that you can slice it AND file it. Unlike normal GS that only gets sculpted and can be cut. It also handles being sanded and filed very well, jus make sure it's cured enough.

It's handy to fill small cracks or smooth over rough surfaces, but be advised that with wide or large cracks it will look like you filled it, but as it dries it will "sink" in. I use it on individual miniatures (infantry) to cover seems where arms are attached and such, but if you're looking to cover large seems (like on a vehicle) I think you'd be better off with regular green stuff. It sands really well, but as was previously stated make sure it's completely dry first - if it's still wet and you go to sand it you'll take it all off.

Also, if you think it will help secure something (like an arm) that's not the case - it will snap off regardless of the liquid green stuff. Thankfully I learned to pin.

It'll fill gaps, but regular GS is better sometimes.

I have only used mine to try to fill a few gaps in the hull of my storm talon. Like said above it sinks in and is hard to situate it in a gulf or valley, regular greenstuff would work better there. I think its supposed to be pretty good for filling in those little bubbles in finecast/resin models though.

It's not essential but i find it useful for gap filling, a friend of mine let it slightly dry then picked at it with a needle for a pretty decent fur effect

I've seen someone use it to build up symbols. He made silver trees on all his Space Wolves with it.

I use it from time to time, but I use this more:


It just seems easier to me, and cheaper for the amount you get as well. There are very few situations I've run into that I need the LGS over this stuff, but I still have a pot to use. First one I bought to test it out.

No, I don't like it. It's ok in a very small set of situations, but usually there's a better alternative. My issues with it...

One of my biggest issues with it, it shrinks. You apply it and it looks sweet, gap filled. Wait for it to dry, and the gap is back again. So if you actually want to fill a gap fully, it takes multiple coats or one epic coat and then sand it back.

It usually requires post work (cleaning up) and sanding back because it's hard to manipulate while curing. This makes it annoying to use on any surface that is concave or has poor knife access.

While it does fill gaps, by the time I get my gap filled with the above issues in mind, I almost always could have used regular greenstuff to achieve the same result since I can usually get an appropriate finish first time without any post work.

There are times when you WANT to be able to sand it afterwards, like many of the seams you find on vehicles. Regular 2 part Greenstuff isn't as good for those because it sands poorly. But then in those situations I reckon you're better off with a modeling putty from Testors or Revell like Alleton mentioned.

I don't like it. I've used it only where i need a large amount of re-surfacing, like where I've mis-aligned some custom work, and need to smooth out an entire plate to make it seem cleaner than it actually is. Typically, this ends up happening for custom work for me. I'll gob it into where i've messed up the seam, and spread it out over a larger area. When dry, i sand/file it down, and it makes my crooked surface a little straighter. Otherwise, I haven't found that I like LGS

It's not great. As has already been said, it's only really useful for smoothing some surfaces over and very small cracks.

What I'd really like is something between the consistency of GS and liquid GS. A man can dream, right?

What I'd really like is something between the consistency of GS and liquid GS.

JB Kwikweld two-part epoxy. Stands up to a reasonable amount of sculpting, if you work quickly. Good strong bond, too.

I think the stuff is awful. But than again who cares what I think or anyone else for that matter. If it work for you its awesome would I recommend it... prob not. I've only got into sculping about 1 week ago myself tried it and i thought it was utter crap.. but I but it was a gw product so .

i only use it for 2 situations, both being somewhat rare.

1) Filling that line on "snap together" models. Normal greenstuff is to chunky and/or takes out too much detail in the process, liquid works fine for it.

2) Not even using it for the intended purpose, i use Cork Plate for my bases to make rocks and rubble out of...every time i use Cork Plate i always coat them in liquid greenstuff. Why? For rubble it makes it have less holes, for rocks it makes it look more like a solid rock rather than a cluster of rocks, and the main reason is it adds a lot of durability if i apply it thickly. Cork is pretty soft, after all.

I've used lgs quite a bit and I find it usefull.

1. My preferred tool for applying lgs is a clay shaper I got from liddle (a really huge flat one with really shard edge and it's grey).

2. You shouldn't do watered down coats. In my opinion the best consistency is when lgs spreads smooth and doesn't "crack". Too much water and you get to do bazillion coats and too dry isn't smooth.

3. I use lgs for 2 things. One being filling gaps (anything from 1mm deep dents to hair thin gaps) and smoothing out sculpting work (a coat of lgs and you have a smooth(er) finish).

 Vineheart01 wrote:
i only use it for 2 situations, both being somewhat rare.

1) Filling that line on "snap together" models. Normal greenstuff is to chunky and/or takes out too much detail in the process, liquid works fine for it.

2) Not even using it for the intended purpose, i use Cork Plate for my bases to make rocks and rubble out of...every time i use Cork Plate i always coat them in liquid greenstuff. Why? For rubble it makes it have less holes, for rocks it makes it look more like a solid rock rather than a cluster of rocks, and the main reason is it adds a lot of durability if i apply it thickly. Cork is pretty soft, after all.

I'm gonna have to try that. Just used cork for the first time and noticed that it made the rocky out cropping look kind of cobbled together.

kronicpsycho wrote:
I think the stuff is awful. But than again who cares what I think or anyone else for that matter. If it work for you its awesome would I recommend it... prob not. I've only got into sculping about 1 week ago myself tried it and i thought it was utter crap.. but I but it was a gw product so .

Yeah, it's not really meant for sculpting

 nectarprime wrote:

kronicpsycho wrote:
I think the stuff is awful. But than again who cares what I think or anyone else for that matter. If it work for you its awesome would I recommend it... prob not. I've only got into sculping about 1 week ago myself tried it and i thought it was utter crap.. but I but it was a gw product so .

Yeah, it's not really meant for sculpting

Yeah, it's meant for gap filling, but it ain't too good at that either lol

I love LGS. There's so much you can do with it. I find it invaluable for scratchbuilding (and modeling in general); tidying up, gaps, small modifications, the list goes on. Latest use I've discovered is a quick and easy replacement for GSing weapon wrappings, white painters tape (two or more layers depending on thickness you want) cut into a thin strip that's wrapped around the weapon handle, then 'paint' it a few times with LGS. Once dry sandpaper to perfection.




Personally I'd say it's well worth it. Sure there may be other better/cheaper products out there, but when GW started selling it I picked up a pot, haven't regretted it at all. It may not be a superb fix all issues straight from the pot product, but after learning its properties and having the patience to use it, it's great. The best advice I can give is let it cure properly before you start cutting or sanding it (unless you're trying to get some very special effect like someone mentioned making fur), I prefer thinning it out with water and doing a lot of layers, easy enough to put on a movie and every few minutes you brush on a thin layer. But after I finish, I let it cure overnight (sometimes longer if I've been up late). THEN I sand it to perfection.

Learn how to use it to your personal advantage and it's a great tool.

I thought it was just introduced to cover GWs after the disasters of finecast so they could say "Look, we fixed your problem with a quite limited and expensive product" and we all went "Aaah. Seems legit, lets go get some!!"

So no, I don't think it's worth it, and tend to scab off a mate if I want it for anything specific. And then I'm still normally disappointed, even though I haven't paid for it.