Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I'm getting ready to do my first commission which involves painting a katana. It's 120mm so much larger scale than I'm used to so I doubt I can get away with they typical nmm gradient used on powerswords and the like. Problem is, most natural metal finish paints I see, even if they have small enough pigments like Alclad, still have a hazy or brushed metallic look. I'm hoping for tips to make this sword look polished. Maybe I have unrealistic expectations, and that's ok I guess. The best I've found are the Alclad or Vallejo Liquid Metal paints. Any tips?

Vallejo Liquid range. Gives a lovely smooth finish. paint is almost same concistancy as water. Must thin with alcohol. Enjoy.

Liquid range I definately second as a suggestion. If you cant find a supply of 96% Iso (the problem im currently having. Im going to have to give up and buy from a first aid store online) then I would suggest the VMA line as the airbrush pigments are very tiny and go on very shiny.

In that scale, you really might want to try metal polish. Awesomepaintjob has a video with all the info:

Awesomepinatjob - Metal finish

Hawkeye's no longer exist apparently so the product he's using there you cannot get.

 Blaggard wrote:
Hawkeye's no longer exist apparently so the product he's using there you cannot get.

That's a real pity, I was thinking of buying some of the powders, myself.

That's a bummer about Hawkeye. I just watched that video too. I've been trying to find a good comparison between the Vallejo Liquid Metal and Alclad II products. I think either will do fine, but I'm leaning toward Alclad because of local accessibility, and the stainless steel and chrome look very much like real metal especially after a buff with a cotton swab. I think I'll probably not do chrome, but stainless. I just still haven't found a good demonstration of Vallejo Liquid Silver, just the gold.

Try "thining down" the metalic paints with a glaze medium. I've found this helps the metallic pigments lay down smoother (flatter?) and creates a more realistic metal effect.
These may also help...katana's have very intricate color patterns.

On larger scale figures like that...I tend to actually go with real metal. In this case stainless steel would probably be best.

You can get a bit of stainless shim stock and rough cut it to size using a dremel than refine the edge using files and grinding wheels.

Alternatively, you can buy ready made weapons without too much difficulty at all. 120 mm isn't quite as readily available as 1/6 is - but if you poke about the various garage kit sites you will find email contacts and links to old guys who make tiny weapons in their basements out of the real materials used in the big stuff.

The third alternative is plating. I can't recall if the figure you are using is metal or resin. If it is metal - you can go straight away to electro-plating it. They sell starter kits at a lot of craft stores, and although there is some foul chemistry involved...it isn't anything that you have to worry about 3 armed children for. If the figure is resin...well, see one or two (there are indirect ways you can plate resin...but I have only seen the end result and am not familiar with how to get to that point).

@dkelly: Thanks for the info on katana blades. It may not be a bad idea to use multiple metallic paints to achieve that look.

@Sean_OBrien: That might be an option. The kit that was finally decided upon is actually plastic. Clipping off the blade and making a new one out of metal wouldn't be too hard I don't think. That's a good idea.