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Yeah, I'm kinda terrifed of using decals lol. Most of my Blood Angels are done, with the exception of some models that have been arriving this week. But my general friendly game army has been fully painted.

I'm just not sure how to attach the shoulder pad decals. I've seen the tutorials, and I know the process, but I've been too afraid to try lol.

Any advice?

Oh, and before I forget, should I get decal solutions, or will plain old H2O do the trick?

Get Decal Set, Micro Sol, whatever its called. plain old water isn't gonna cut it.

I used water for my first decals, and it was not a great experience. Based on numerous recommendations I picked up bottles of Micro Set and Micro Sol and they are much much easier now.

Why not try a test or two on a primed shoulder pad to get the hang of it?

 SoloFalcon1138 wrote:
Get Decal Set, Micro Sol, whatever its called. plain old water isn't gonna cut it.

I've heard of using those, and I've seen them at a local hobby shop, but idk what the difference between the two is and what different functions they have.

Are they the same thing? Do they go on together???

Sorry for the dumb questions, I just want to get this right.

It's a two step system. Micro Set is step one, then Micro Sol.

I had a horrible time until I changed one thing, soaking the decals.

Here's my process:

Add a gloss coat to the area you want to decal.

Add a layer of Micro Set. This will help the decal adhere, and also allow you to do small adjustments to re-position, without losing the adhesive on the back.

Then, soak your decal for only 5-10 seconds. Just long enough for it to curl, but not so long that it comes loose from the backing. Do not leave it sitting in the water. If I'm not ready for it yet, or if I do this prior to the MicroSet stage, I then remove it from the water, and place one drop on a palette and set it on the drop, this will just keep it moist.

Then, I dab it with a paper towel to remove excess water and gently use a brush to slide it partway off the backing. Once it's where I want it, I push it off directly to onto the still wet MicroSet.

Gently position and flatten it. I then dab up any excess setting liquid.

Once that dries, I gently coat it with MicroSol. This is a solvent which softens the decal so it will conform to curves, panel lines, etc. This allows it to look painted on rather than a decal and when combined with a good gloss coat will inhibit 'silvering'

Silvering is where you can see the transparent film around the decal. I have noticed that GW decals have a terrible problem with this regardless.

Once you apply the Micro Sol it is IMPERATIVE THAT YOU DO NOT TOUCH THE DECAL UNTIL IT DRIES. The decal will crinkle, and look ruined. It isn't. Do not smooth it. The slightest touch will shred it.

Once it's dry, the decal will have flattened and adheared to the texture of the model. Then, if necessary, apply subsequent coats of MicroSol. It doesn't take much, just lightly dab it on.

I have found that it requires 2-3 coats much of the time to get the GW decals to conform and not silver. A nice matte varnish to seal and protect it is then required and generally helps rid any remaining bit of silvering. A second protective coat of varnish is good. Or, if you plan to weather over top the decals, gloss coat for washes and weathering, then matte.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Sounds like a lot, but really isn't. Again, not over soaking the decals helped the most for me.

Not touching the decal until the MicroSet dries and the decal levels out cannot be overstated.

It's best to let the model sit while this is done. I've ruined many decals because I tried to work elsewhere on a model and brushed it ever so lightly with a finger or thumb.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
I free hand the shoulder pads. Pack/Unit markings are easy, but my Great Clan symbol is a bit difficult. I've still not gotten the hang of it quite yet, but I use a Micro art pen which makes it much easier as it can make hairlines. I use decals on vehicles though with the exception of Rhino hatches since they're huge.

For those I make stencils, trace the outline and paint by hand. Good luck!

One thing i'll say for decals.... they have improved my free hand painting.

I hate using them, only because of bad technique on my part.
They do look good on a uniform army and give great detail, but I free hand most of my symbols and icons as I find it easier, they don't look as uniform and they vary in size but they look ok to me.

I still use the odd decal on large flat surfaces and these seem to work fine using just water, but anything with a curve and it a matter of cutting the decal adding this postion and waiving a magic wand (in my case anyway).

 BattleCapIronblood wrote:
Any advice?

Yup.
Forget about them.
Try freehands.

There are loads of video tutorial on youtube, this one is good enough.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GXX2Q-KlRw
Good luck with the transfers, i ing hate the things!

Heres a .pdf I did, pretty well received:
Http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf

I really don't understand the hate. Transfers aren't difficult, and with the setting solutions they'll follow any curve, drop in to any groove without needing to cut them.

To each, his own I suppose.

 Badger_Bhoy wrote:
I really don't understand the hate.

I find them more difficult to apply than to paint. It takes me more time. I find the result is not as good as painting (it is generally necessary to repaint them).
And moreover, painting freehands improves your painting skills, decals don't.

Plus with painting, you can make any shape or size you want, my marines all have different markings, wich would be quite impossible with decals.



This is why I hate decals.

I would definitely recommend just working on your freehand skills, I've never had any joy with decals

 Minus wrote:

 Badger_Bhoy wrote:
I really don't understand the hate.

I find them more difficult to apply than to paint. It takes me more time. I find the result is not as good as painting (it is generally necessary to repaint them).
And moreover, painting freehands improves your painting skills, decals don't.

Plus with painting, you can make any shape or size you want, my marines all have different markings, wich would be quite impossible with decals.



This is why I hate decals.

I agree, it is a bit more time consuming and labor intensive. As with anything, it gets easier with practice. I do free hand my shoulder pads too though, since I would have to make custom decals.

Badger_Bhoy's advice is right on the money. That's exactly how aeromodellers do it.

At the same time, freehand painting can be very rewarding. In the good old days that was all we had. My ACW army's flags are all freehand and I am quite proud of them. I will probably make new flags the same way, so they will match in the expanded army.

Loads of wargamers use decals for things like Roman shields and Napoleonic era flags, and that's great. If you want to avoid painting 192 identical shields I am right there with you.

I use my own printed decals for terrain posters:

 Badger_Bhoy wrote:
It's a two step system. Micro Set is step one, then Micro Sol.
{snip}

Badger, thank you for this post. I've printed it off for use later :-)

No problem! Glad I could help!