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Greetings, lads!

As ashamed as I am to admit this, only recently did a friend of mine tip me off about this wonderful product . I purchased a third battalion box yesterday, and need it ready ASAP. However, I'm uncertain as to which pigment to select. I'm still a fairly new player, and my painting acumen is average at best - typical colors for my regiments' armor, beards, and weapons, nothing fancy.

Would the strong tone give it too much of a brown tinge? Might the dark tone obscure a little more than desired? If anyone has any experience with quickshade, and can suggest as to whether the strong or dark tone would best suit standard-painted dwarfs, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

-Kuzri

I have used strong and the tone can be adjusted by how much you shake the can beforehand. The tint seems to accumulate in the bottom so more shaking = darker.

I started out dipping but brushing it on works much better as you have more control over where it will pool. An added bonus to the brush method is that you dont need to shake it off an leave a spray of varnish everywhere.

Summary...use the strong tone.

The difference between Strong and Dark is more about tint than strength - Strong is brown-toned and Dark is black-toned. Dark tends to be better on darker blues and greens, especially when those parts represent inorganic materials like metal armor. For anything with a sizable amount of flesh tones and hair, use Strong. When in doubt, use Strong - the brown tint isn't that noticeable.

For Dwarf warriors, definitely Strong. And I second the recommendation to brush rather than dip - much more control and much less mess. Just be sure to use a cheapo brush and have some mineral spirits handy to clean it with if you ever want to use it again. The spirits can also be used to thin out any splotchy patches once the dip begins to set. Take your time on the first couple guys to get a feel for the dip - it has a really weird viscosity to it that's totally unlike anything paint-based. You can soak it up with a brush for a while and the remainder will ooze in to fill the gap and smooth out. But after a couple of minutes, it starts to firm up and mucking around more will leave brush marks and make it worse. If you can wait a day, do up a couple of guys first, let them dry, and then spray with matte varnish. The figs will look very different once the matte varnish takes the dip's gloss off, and you'll have a better idea of what you're shooting for.

Thank you both for your replies, much appreciated. However, a friend recently sent me this article showcasing darktone on dwarfs, and was wondering what y'all think:

http://www.bugmansbrewery.com/topic/29495-back-to-my-dipped-dwarfs/

One more question: I was also contemplating purchasing the plate mail primer for my newly assembled 40-man GW warriors. I usually dry-brush plate mail on the armor and weapons before hand, so I'm wondering if you have any experience with their primers before I shell out the $$$. Thanks!

-Kuzri


Edit: Inserted hyperlink, first one was broken.

Kuzri wrote:
However, a friend recently sent me this article showcasing darktone on dwarfs, and was wondering what y'all think...

I think that guy's really, really good at applying the dip. He leaves so little on the model that the tint is barely noticeable. I think that for most people, Dark would end up too dark on those Warriors and Slayers. I'd still say Strong, but go for Dark if you want to try - it's not going to turn out unplayably bad either way.

I think that guy's really, really good at applying the dip. He leaves so little on the model that the tint is barely noticeable. I think that for most people, Dark would end up too dark on those Warriors and Slayers. I'd still say Strong, but go for Dark if you want to try - it's not going to turn out unplayably bad either way.

Agreed, as a novice I'll just stick to strong for now; can always buy the dark and experiment another time. Thanks again

-Kuzri