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Specifically requesting feedback for the cold white effect on helm and narthecium before I continue. This was using P3 paints, so I built up from Underbelly Blue, to Frostbite, then progressively mixed Morrow White into the Frostbite before switching to a very thin white (two layers). Thoughts and opinions, please?

I think it looks really good. The only thing I would really like to see is more contrast between the shadow and the white. I feel the contrast on the rest of the armor and the contrast in the white clash a bit.

I agree on contrast. The rest of the model (lloks great btw) is very contrasty, but the helm goes away from that theme. Maybe try blacklining the panels on the helm and Narthecium but keep the super white look. That way it would draw even more attention to the fact that it is a white helm and not just an unfinished part of the model!

I am thinking about going back over the head and narthecium with a thin oil wash of a sky or ocean blue to keep with rest of the appearance.


Sorry about possible necromancy on this; have been hospitalized since April 1.

I went over the white on the apothecary of an oil wash of Winsor and Newton brand Cerulean blue after some feedback. This strengthened the shadows. To give you an idea o how runny this stuff is and see how it's poured down into the crevasses of the arm ( a 0 sized synthetic with mineral spirits cleared it out). This fills out your model's crevasses very, very fast.

I like how the blue is looking, as well as the force in general. Would that be finished now or are you going to re white some of the higher surfaces?

Lanstus wrote:
I like how the blue is looking, as well as the force in general. Would that be finished now or are you going to re white some of the higher surfaces?

I just did a very gentle recleaning of the face with an 00 synthetic using pure mineral spirits. This whitened it some areas (the vents under the cheekbones, for instance) and made sure to clean it out of any brown/offwhite recesses where it shouldn't have been. The edging still has the sharp, cold white to it under and Ott lamp, so I'm sticking with how it is now.

How did you paint that bleached bone color? I don't suppose you'd provide a tutorial for that?

Seconded, I'd love to know the recipe, they look beautiful

Third...ed? :p i love that bone! I would definately appreciate a tutorial.

@Million and @Stormsung:

It's actually quite easy. It's my attempt to do it really, really fast while achieving a high level of quality.

I used a bone colored primer (in this case I used Skeleton Bone by Army Painter - but you could substitute Menoth White Base from P3 paints or Ushabti Bone from GW using an airbrush) in a spray can.

I touched up any spots I missed with the spray can using Menoth Base White from the P3 line.

I thinned Menoth White Highlight heavily with water and Vallejo Glaze medium and build highlights on the tops of armor and raised sections. Anything facing an unseen frontal light source. I averaged 2-3 layers of this, especially on the top of the armor or legplates. Leave the original primer color in any crevasse or most of the rear (highlight anything you want to stand out).

I then seal the models with Testor's Dullcote (very important to do it right here)

I then used Winton brand of the Winsor and Newton color Van Dyke Brown to wash it. THIS IS AN OIL PAINT. Thin it with Odorless Mineral Spirits (called White Spirits in the EU usually). You do not need a lot to go a long way. You will also constantly be restirring them together (about every half a model) as they love to separate. Wash the entire model that you want to be bone (notice I don't do the guns?). This stuff flows like no one's business. Give it 10 minutes to dry and use a cotton swab soaked in just the spirits and wipe the excess you don't need off. Typically I find this to be anything up on a raised surface.

This stuff never truly dries. You can correct it using spirits for days after application until you seal it again. If you are done and happy with it, seal the model with dullcote because, as noted, it takes forever to dry (years) and you can smudge it with a finger even if it looks dry.

Look on youtube for more detail about using oil washes on minis.

When lined up in assembly line, I did 9 suits of terminators in under 4 hours this way. Just the armor.

The blue wash I used on the apothecary white was Cerulean Blue, also from the Winsor and Newton line.


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Also, too: when you look at what a "bleached bone" is, you can see how far the studio color scheme gets it wrong now. There's a reason that the older Deathwing from 2E and the SpaceHulk game look almost white -- because they should be!




I think I'm a lot closer to that than I am to this:



EDIT: changed to the correct color of oil paint

Thanks CIsaac,

Thats an amazing result for that quick a process, looks like I might have to give this process a go!

I much prefer the look of you scheme to the studio colors - more bone, less beige .