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Made in us
Ghastly Grave Guard





Cambridge, UK

I'm looking to upgrade to a better airbrush soon. I've been using a Chinese knock-off and recently experienced problems that I can't figure out how to fix (splattering paint), so I'm interested to hear about good airbrushes for about $100. I could go up to about $150, though, if it was worth it.

I know there have been a million threads about this but a quick search didn't turn up anything recent. Obviously everyone talks about Badgers and Iwatas, but there are so many models and I just don't know the difference.

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Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

This one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0078MEXX8

Or this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013NBQLA/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1365426410&sr=8-3&pi=SL75

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Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

I couldn't say what airbrush is the 'best' as each has its use.
It will depends on where you are in the world, what your looking for in the brush, and any good deals happening at the time you are shopping.

Badger, Iwata, Harder & Steenbeck and Paasch are all fine brands of airbrush and all offer brushes from entry to professional levels.

I really like Harder & Steenbeck because of their unique(?) nozzle mounting design which is tool free and very quick n' easy to seat correctly.
http://www.everythingairbrush.com/acatalog/info_Evolution.html See the parts diagram here if you want to see how it works. But basically the nozzle just slots into the end cap which screws on, No tiny threads to break off Also the trigger mechanism is very nice, with a curved bar to help it roll easier than a standard design.


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Made in us
Ghastly Grave Guard





Cambridge, UK



Any major differences between those two? As a noob, will I even notice a difference?

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Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

One is a 2 in 1 that comes with 2 sizes of nozzle setup, the other is slightly higher quality.

http://www.amazon.com/EVOLUTION-SILVERLINE-nozzle-Harder-Steenbeck/dp/B003Z9Y72A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1365429231&sr=8-2&keywords=harder+and+steenbeck+evolution

I'm using one of these at the moment and I'm very happy with it.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/04/08 13:54:32


'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
Made in ca
Swift Swooping Hawk





Badger Krome is a great quality/price suggestion.

I have friends who use it and are quite happy with it.

Personally I use an H&S Infinity 2-in-1 and I am quite happy with it but it is expensive.
   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

 Tangent wrote:
I'm looking to upgrade to a better airbrush soon. I've been using a Chinese knock-off and recently experienced problems that I can't figure out how to fix (splattering paint), so I'm interested to hear about good airbrushes for about $100. I could go up to about $150, though, if it was worth it..


1.) Are you sure you can't fix the splattering paint? There are 2 possibilities. One is a bent needle - this happened to me. A tiny bend in the needle caused the air & paintstream to redirect slightly, and in this case caused the spray to just barely touch one of the prongs that are on the outside of the needle to protect it. As paint built up, it would eventually fall into the stream as a splatter\spit. The other possibility is water in the compressor or line... do you have a moisture trap?

2.) I'm not an expert, but I really like the Badger Renegade Spirit, because the feed can go in any direction. This was helpful for painting my Zuzzy rubber mat, since I can go straight down. If you're not keen on the feed, get a Badger Krome - which is almost entirely the same brush. The Renegade series came first, and the Krome is a refinement of it; they have like 90% parts commonality. This is good because that makes it easy to find needles, nozzles, and other parts.



This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/04/08 19:54:01


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Made in us
Defending Guardian Defender






I just purchased an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS or $134.00 US. Great brush. Affordable price.


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Grey Knight Purgator firing around corners





Lewiston, Id

I got the Iwata Neo for about 54 dollars from Ebay, considered one of the best for starer air brush people

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Made in us
Ghastly Grave Guard





Cambridge, UK

 Ouze wrote:

1.) Are you sure you can't fix the splattering paint? There are 2 possibilities. One is a bent needle - this happened to me. A tiny bend in the needle caused the air & paintstream to redirect slightly, and in this case caused the spray to just barely touch one of the prongs that are on the outside of the needle to protect it. As paint built up, it would eventually fall into the stream as a splatter\spit. The other possibility is water in the compressor or line... do you have a moisture trap?


Well, I made a thread about the problem I'm having here: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/506701.page

I've tried everything mentioned in that thread and nothing has fixed the problem. For some reason, I had a feeling that the problem had something to do with the pressure at which I was spraying, but after attempting to spray at multiple different pressures, I have basically the same problem. It's more noticeable at lower pressures, though. As for a bent needle, I've very carefully examined the needle I use and it doesn't look bent, but there's always a possibility that it's bent so slightly that I can't see it, but enough that it affects the spray. When you talk about a bend, where in the needle are you referring to? The needle tip? Or can a bend further back from the tip still negatively affect the spray?

And yeah, I have a moisture trap on the compressor, but I don't really know how to check and see if it's working properly.

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




Southeast Texas

Usually it will be in the tip. But that could just be me. I caused one in mine trying to make a video for another dakka member and I was dumb enough to look through the camera and not at my gun. The other time I bent one was when I jammed it in my cleaning pot like a mad man.

I could not see the bend in the needles but paint would collect on one side of the guard and the paint would flow mostly in one direction instead of centered.

Other then my carelessness as an operator I enjoy the badger krome it is amazing and I could not ask for more. The gun is beyond my level which leaves me room to advance and not keep dropping money on upgrades. ( now to just fix my needle bending problem) but hey I use to be a grunt so I am use to breaking stuff.

Caesar:
"Cowards die many times before their deaths,
The valiant never taste of death but once."
Julius Caesar (II, ii, 32-37)
 
   
Made in us
Ghastly Grave Guard





Cambridge, UK

As for the Krome (and, I guess better airbrushes in general), what is the situation with different nozzle sizes? Or is it needle sizes? I'm assuming that a smaller nozzle/needle will allow finer lines to be sprayed, but doesn't this have more to do with the PSI and the distance of the brush from your surface? Meaning, let's say I have a nozzle/needle that's really large, mainly used for basecoating or priming. If I turn my PSI way down and hold the airbrush really close to the surface, wouldn't this allow me to spray really fine lines?

And speaking of which, what size nozzle is designed for basecoating and priming? And other stuff? This thread ended up being about more than just a good cheap brush.

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




Southeast Texas

.33 at 15 psi operating pressure can draw pencil thin lines. and if i was a good enough operator i would not even have to use my brush. but that is not the case yet. " the micrometer trigger stop setting allows the user to set and reference spray patterns to 1/1000 of an inch"

I use the .21 to prime, base coat, and large area high lights on my infantry

the .33 i use to prime and base tanks, then i switch to the .21 to start pre shading post shading and highlights.

Then back down to brushes for the nitty gritty

Distance and psi along with the viscosity of the paint all play a part in detail and spray pattern. The background of my airbrush station is loaded with dots lines and full on blast marks and splatter. Not to mention color checks to make sure i am close to the same mix and there was nothing left in my pot from the color change.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/04/09 12:59:44


Caesar:
"Cowards die many times before their deaths,
The valiant never taste of death but once."
Julius Caesar (II, ii, 32-37)
 
   
Made in us
Ghastly Grave Guard





Cambridge, UK

So, is 15 PSI basically the regular operating value that you almost always use? Even for priming and basecoating? Or do you change your PSI as you swap out nozzle sizes?

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




Southeast Texas

Psi will change with needle size, when i use Model air paint or any of my thinner paints sometimes even 10 psi is good. Or else i start blowing paint all over the model when i get in close leaving globs on the back side. when i prime and base coat i am anywhere between 20 and 25. and that is the steady flow of air operating pressure. not the built up pressure.

The most basic range is anywhere between 10-25 It is much like mixing paint for your brush. There is no special number but just a general idea of what you should shoot for and the situation dictates.

Before i even picked up my air brush i watched every single video by Les Bursley at Awesome Paint Jobs. and a few videos from D4Chan

Caesar:
"Cowards die many times before their deaths,
The valiant never taste of death but once."
Julius Caesar (II, ii, 32-37)
 
   
Made in gb
Ghastly Grave Guard





Cambridge, UK

Just ordered the Krome!

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