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Made in gb
Daemonic Dreadnought





Derby, UK.

I'm tryign to user a wrecked land speeder as a scenic base for a model.

My plan was to damage it and mayeb melt some sectiosn to show catastrophic damage......btu ia little worried.

if i just hold a lighter under the plastic model i'm assumgin it will soften a wilt a little - what about (and i realise this might be stupid) toxis fumes from the melted plastic? Is this an issue?

A friend of mine has offred to lend me a soldering ron which will cut through quicker so mayeb this is the better option?

Armies:

(Iron Warriors) .......Gallery: Iron Warriors Gallery
.......Gallery: Necron Gallery - Army Sold
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Iron Warriors (8000 points-ish)

 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





The soldering iron will be more controllable, and less likely to burn you or areas you don't want melted. Also, the lighter could leave scorge.. er, scorch (see my sig)... marks that you will have to clean off before painting.

I would go with the soldering iron.

DS:80+SGMB--I+Pw40k12#+D++A+/wWD-R++T(D)DM+

2013 W/L/D Ratio:
Dark Angels (3/12/2)
Malifaux (1/3/0)

JWhex wrote:
Some of you guys need to go a through bad girlfriend or two and gain some perspective on things.
 
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

Soldering iron for controlled application, lighter for something a bit random and uncontrolled maybe, might be nice looking to damage an area with the lighter and then puncture it with a soldering iron?
lighters will probably leave soot marks too, these should be cleaned up as said above

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/04/17 13:54:45


'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
Made in gb
Daemonic Dreadnought





Derby, UK.

My plan was to paint it and THEN burn it. Soot marks would actually be good as it supposed to be a crashed Speeder.

Armies:

(Iron Warriors) .......Gallery: Iron Warriors Gallery
.......Gallery: Necron Gallery - Army Sold
.......Gallery: Crimson Fists Gallery - Army Sold

Iron Warriors (8000 points-ish)

 
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

In that case, to achieve soot, try it out with a trash object first, but hold it moderatly high above the flame, Its only styrene plastic so I'm thinking its going to melt really fast. Experiment on some sprue or something to get a suitable technique first (if there is one)

'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
Made in us
Ferocious Blood Claw





The middle of nowhere

Also try a heat gun or a hair dryer on high. The heat gun will melt the plastic higher up without scorching it to bad.

It is the way of Fenris. We stay as long as we can. Fight as hard as we can. Kill as much as we can. Only when we can do no more do we move on.

Sometimes you gotta roll the hard six!

 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






If your trying to get a scorched effect via a flame try candle soot from like a bee's wax candle or a kerosine lamp. all of which are highly dangerous so be careful.

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!





Or invest in some black pigments from MiG, Vallejo, Secret Weapon or any of the other fine pigment makers. That'll make soot look like soot and you can even put soot on parts you didn't intend to melt, like tops of windows, jet exhaust etc.

The Emperor loves me,
This I know,
For the Codex
Tells me so....

http://fallout15mm.wordpress.com/ 
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

I would highly recommend doing any physical damage to the model before painting. Soot can be easily done with a drybrush after the fact.
   
 
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