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hey Guys and Gals,
Basically, what do you use to create rivets? At current I use very thin plasticard tube, but i have a problem with slicing it thin enough, else they stick out too far.
Any other suggestions on what I can use? I want them reasonably small. Like these:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/core/gallery-viewimage.jsp?i=410604&m=2&w=800

Here Ouze states that he uses 'a water filter cartridge', but I have no idea what that is if im truely honest.

I have thought about using GS, and making very small blobs and placing them on in a rivet fashion. does that work?

I use a water filter for my nurgle guys, they are full of tiny little balls which I use as small pustules etc, I can't really see how they work for rivets. The green stuff is a good idea if you don't mind spending the time.

Here is my childish answer, use anything, they're orks!

what about this guys method http://www.ironhands.com/h2rivet.htm

Really like that punch idea.

Two ways that I use;

1. The Forgeworld-way:
I am told that this is the way that Forgeworld does a lot of its rivets......and it is the water filter cartridge way.
Here are some examples
http://www.brita.co.uk/brita/en-gb/shop/cartridge/maxtra.grid?id=100486&category=cartridges
http://www.amazon.com/Braun-Patented-KWF2-Filter-2-Pack/dp/B000062UH2
I am not saying that you have to buy THESE exact products. The very same items can be bought in stores that sell kitchen stuff. Most stores that sell plates, cups, knifes, bowls and cutesy little coat racks sell these as well.
Just ask the people at the counter.

Use a hobby drill to make a small indent, grab some superglue with a toothpick, place a small dot in the indent, pick up one of the little pellets from the water-filter with another (slightly moist) toothpick and place it in the indent. Violá


2. The Tichy Train Group way

https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_nbw--rivets/Default.aspx8

This company makes AWESOME rivets.
I'II recommend the HO scale .030 rivets for infantry, and the .040 and .050 for vehicles.
It is not quite as cheap as the water filter way, but boy do they look good!
Tichy Train Group also make a large variety of tiny nuts, bolts, washers, and combinations of the three, in sizes that are amazing for any Ork player.


Have fun.

 BlackOps wrote:
what about this guys method http://www.ironhands.com/h2rivet.htm

thanks for the link BlackOps! they are some really neat tricks. I'll have a look at the weekend for some of those tools
I also like the embossing idea, might have to grab a couple pairs, one for the conversion

Il also look and see if i can grab some of these water filters cheap. I was wondering how they were being halved. But the indent is a clever way

What about these - looks pretty simple

http://zinge.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=17_95

Are those water filters hard to crack open? I've been looking for the right water filter for a while now, and the prices vary greatly.

Regardless, this is solid thread, just what I've been looking for... Thanks, Dakka.

The filters I have are from Braun and can easily be opened with a hobby knife and a pair of scissors.

narkuk wrote:
What about these - looks pretty simple

http://zinge.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=17_95

Thats a site for my favourites! Not too shabby on the price, might use some of there sprues for some of my more detailed and classy models (not that roks are ever classy). I was especially liking the ramshackle and chains they did. Definitely some great responses so far, had no idea i'd have this many options for rivets

Those in the picture look like tiny balls with drilled divots to countersink the balls.

Personally, I use plastirod and cut it as thin as I can. With a hobby knife and cutting like you would a carrot, I can make dozens super thin to not stick out so far. Then I just glue them on.

You can also get 'strips' which have them pre-attached like railroad cars.

Also, if the plasticard is thin enough, you can poke it with a sharp pin from the back and leave a divot BUMP which looks like a kind of rivet.

Some people use holepunchers on plasticard to get consistent thickness, I never tried that.

If you're using plasti-rod, drill a hole through the position of the rivet, glue in a portion of rodthen clip to length - it does use more material but is much less fiddly!

nkelsch wrote:
Those in the picture look like tiny balls with drilled divots to countersink the balls.

Personally, I use plastirod and cut it as thin as I can. With a hobby knife and cutting like you would a carrot, I can make dozens super thin to not stick out so far. Then I just glue them on.

You can also get 'strips' which have them pre-attached like railroad cars.

Also, if the plasticard is thin enough, you can poke it with a sharp pin from the back and leave a divot BUMP which looks like a kind of rivet.

Some people use holepunchers on plasticard to get consistent thickness, I never tried that.

One should always strive to read a thread to the end before posting.

Steelmage99 wrote:

nkelsch wrote:
Those in the picture look like tiny balls with drilled divots to countersink the balls.

Personally, I use plastirod and cut it as thin as I can. With a hobby knife and cutting like you would a carrot, I can make dozens super thin to not stick out so far. Then I just glue them on.

You can also get 'strips' which have them pre-attached like railroad cars.

Also, if the plasticard is thin enough, you can poke it with a sharp pin from the back and leave a divot BUMP which looks like a kind of rivet.

Some people use holepunchers on plasticard to get consistent thickness, I never tried that.

One should always strive to read a thread to the end before posting.

I don't understand your comment. My understanding is 'water filter balls' is similar to aa technique which uses drill to make a divot, and then put the ball in to make a bump.

And then I posted some of the techniques I have used and heard of... The poking from behind to distress the plasticard and holepunch did not seem to be previous mentioned (or burried in a link and not actually discussed), and I wanted to add that while others seem to have problems with Plastirod cutting, there are techniques to get better at it.

So I did read the thread, not sure what your post is referring too? Did I miss a sign saying I am not allowed to attempt to discuss or contribute to Ork related modeling threads?

Microbeads, from the craft store (with the glitter and flock). A few bucks nets you literally thousands of tiny (.5mm, perhaps), dome-headed rivets (when countersunk), without the need to crack open a water filter. Considering the cost of Brita filters (the only ones I've used), it may actually work out cheaper.

I've used both sliced rod and punched card, in the past, but never really liked the look. Even for flat- or pan-headed rivets, I found them less than convincing. At the very least, overly long sliced rod rod rivets can be filed down to the proper length, but I find pre-drilling the locations faster and easier.