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I'm having a hell of a time trying to prime some dudes white. I keep getting a sandpaper like texture on the primed model, it looks and feels horrible.

Originally I tried Skull White, thought the can was screwed up, swapped it, tried it again, still screwed up, then switched to Krylon primer (yes, it says primer on the can) and it STILL looks like crap. I asked the dude at GW what I could be doing wrong and he said he'd never seen anything like it and really couldn't help.

Here's the picture of the Krylon one I just did. These models were from batch 1, then stripped in Simple Green.



You can see the bumps of primer on it. It's bloody terrible.

You can also see my lunch bowl. Mac and cheese and bacon, helps soften the blow of screwing up a THIRD batch of models in a row.

So, pretty frustrated with this whole thing now. If anyone could tell me what in the name of hell I am doing wrong, I'd really appreciated.

1) Are you priming outside?

2) Is it humid/muggy wherever you are priming?

3) Silly question, but are you shaking the can of primer sufficiently? (1 minute plus)

1) Yes.

2) No, it's been exceptionally dry. I'm near the massive wildfires in So. Cal. The 2nd attempt was on the wildfire day, later at night when it was cool. Today was the Krylon attempt, it's been more humid than usual, but that's not saying much.

3) Yep. I usually shake for 2 min.

What are you doing when you spray? Distant puffs to dust the model? Fast, linear passes at short range? When my white spray was going on rough (more chalky than lumpy, admittedly), it seemed as if the atomized paint was clumping in the air on its way to the model. If the paint starting to set in the air was the problem, getting wet coats on the model was the solution- I started spraying closer, moving quickly to avoid runs and pools, and that did the trick.

Yeah people say to spray 12 in from the model, but I always get that clump when I try to prime "right".

That could be it, the only thing I was asked when I went for help was "Are you far enough away".

I spray at about 8-10 inches, is that what's screwing this up? How close do you guys go?

And is there any way to fix these guys without simple green? They literally JUST got out of a multi-week SG soak and I don't want to put them straight back in, would actually like to bloody play a game.

Try setting the can of spraypaint in warm water (not boiling) for 5 minutes, then shake for another 5, then spray. It looks like you are having a moisture issue, or using the cheapie walmart spraypaint. It is the only time I have ever had that happen.

Probably not. You should try L.A.'s Totally Awesome, you can get a half gallon at Dollar General for 3 bucks. I find it works better than simple green and super clean.

It might be that the paint is drying in mid air, I live in California too it sometimes gets really hot, I would spray from 6 inches away, in small controlled bursts, you don't want to coat the whole thing, or you don't have to, just try to hit most of the model. My first spray primer I used was on a group of daemonettes and I ruined them all, I grew fearfull of the damn cans. but it's fine now. I'm in San Diego and what I do to prime is this.

-Be sure to pick a nice day, not extremely hot nor to humid or cold
-If it's a nice hot day prime in the shadow not in direct sunlight, the primer might dry in mid air or the hot sunlight may make the primer dry funny, If it's cloudy it doesn't matter to much. I've primed at nights and cold nights, I haven't ruined models like that but I don't recommend it.
-Shake well the can for a couple of minutes, do a little dance or something, you have to be sure that the paint and propellant inside the can are well mixed. shake it in all directions swirl it arround and stuff.
-I prime at about 6 inches to be honest I don't think I go more than 8 inches away, the primer can dry in mid air if you don't live in a cold place. Just do controlled burst or very quick passes.
-less is more, don't try to cover the whole model just most of it, and don't do more than one or two coats max, if you miss some deep recesses just paint with your brush over them, it won't be subject to any scratching or rubbing anyway because it's deep.
-Finally once finished turn your can upside down and spray until it sprays clear. this releases the primer caught in the tube and prevents clogging the can or forming little clumps of primer that you may be shooting when priming afterwards.

Hope this helped. Don't stress over it, I ruined a 30 bucks set of daemonettes my first time. it happens :/
Alan


Automatically Appended Next Post:
If you are still having trouble try using metal models for practice priming, because they are metal you can just dump them in pinesol and strip the primer right off. that way you don't ruin more models

Hi OP. When I use to use primer in a can. I use to shake for about 10mins. You only need to shake about 5 imo. Make sure you have it about 30CM away from the model when you prime and never spray in one spot. you want to almost fan the model swing your hand back and forth while priming.

On the other hand, this is a common issue with white in general. But this should help you abit I hope.

Awesome, thanks for the help everybody.

It was getting super annoying, especially since my budget for models is, well, not good, haha.

Thanks!

I'd bet my dollar to your dime that you are using a sandable primer.

And test your primer on empty sprues first, for Q's sake, instead of blindly spraying it on models.

Yes, the paint is starting to dry in mid air - and the tiny globules form a skin and are not liquid when they hit the mini.
(what fish said above).

It is a combination of the things others have mentioned here; temperature, the specific paint, and the distance to the model.

I had a lot of problems with this in the past as well, and basically I had to spray a bit closer, but be careful to not spray too much - I ended up using quick sweeping motions.

best of luck.

Sandable primer is *designed* to do that. I did that to some eldar wave serpents back in the day.

I have been using sandable primer for a year and I do not get a gritty surface at all. Very smooth actually, better result then any primer I have used.

It is a mix of temp, distance, and the paint, just like everyone else has said.

Don't forget having a closed back spray box can have an effect too. Use an open box or just a tile or something. It helps out tremendously because paint doesn't swirl as much and dry then coat the mini.

Are you starting your spray aimed at the model, or off to the side?

Hi OP. I use either the spray paint specifically made for plastic (you can get it at a Fred Meyer or whatever equivalent that sells spray paints) or the high dollar model primer from the various model companies.

Short bursts in a sweeping motion do the trick. Experiment with distances form 6" to 12" and see what works best for you.

Best of luck.

Short bursts at close range.

FIRE!!

I stick mine in a Marie Callendar's pie tin, go outside and do the short burst with a sweeping motion, rotating the pie tin a lot. I try to put a dozen models on there at a time (don't want to waste the overspray!) and go about 1 second bursts from about 6". I live in the middle of California. No wildfires, but it's still dry and hot in Motown.