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Wanted to know pros and cons. I currently use gw paints.

Once that's said and done, I would like some help with what colors and shades. What should I get for leather , blue cloth, and bronze (ether gw paints or P3)?

Liquid Pigment for P3 vs Solid Pigment for GW:

My GW paints from 2003 have tended to solidify over time and require some rigorous shaking and thinning to bring into working order again.

I tend to prefer P3 colours for basing, and I'm yet to create inks out of either so can't compare that way.

P3 is cheaper nearly universally:

P3 colours don't correspond to GW colours for any tutorials you're doing.

P3 have a chart that shows what base colour/shade/highlight 1 and 2 correspond together which can be very useful

etc lots of it can be found by googling

Shaozun wrote:
Liquid Pigment for P3 vs Solid Pigment for GW:

My GW paints from 2003 have tended to solidify over time and require some rigorous shaking and thinning to bring into working order again.

I tend to prefer P3 colours for basing, and I'm yet to create inks out of either so can't compare that way.

P3 is cheaper nearly universally:

P3 colours don't correspond to GW colours for any tutorials you're doing.

P3 have a chart that shows what base colour/shade/highlight 1 and 2 correspond together which can be very useful

etc lots of it can be found by googling

GW has the same progression charts for their line. In fact the new line has it progressing from base to line highlights now. That said it really comes down to personal preference.

GW paints seem to be superior to the old GW paints (which are basically what the PP ones are) but they don't have the washes where PP does.

GW paint line has shades and glazes which are really good for picking out recesses and changing the overall tone of a model's color. A wash, on the other hand, combines the qualities of both the shade and the glaze and can make aweful paintjobs look at least marginally competent. Taking washes out of the line was the biggest mistake GW has made.

Unless price is an issue, I suggest staying with GW paints, shades, and glazes as needed and then going to PP to get washes.

Glazes, shades and washes can be made from any of the common hobby paints with the right additives, so if you get yourself some matt medium, drying retarder and flow aid you can make any colour do any of those things.

If you're not totally set on P3, This paint range compatibility chart on dakka shows you what colours from each range much up and roughly how closely. As you can see P3 is the outsider ; p I use mostly Vallejo and Minitaire and find them both great for a lot of reasons.

Cons of GW paints: Priced the highest, tubs waste and damage paint, tubs hard to use with airbrush, glaze/shade etc ranges are unnecessary if you can use additives, they keep changing their range which harms stores and end users, their paint is no better than other popular ranges.

If you're interested in Vallejo I can link you to some discussions on why people prefer or dislike them from here on dakka, or you can search them up. Not sure if there are many on P3, you might have more luck on their forum.

I haven't had any wasted/damaged paint with the new pots but I'm pretty careful on how I handle my paints. Eyedropper tops (generic, not PP ones) have been a major hassle for me. I guess YMMV depending on how you use your stuff.

gw are very good paint. I don't go in for the dry pigment paints or their colored texture since those aren't really worth the money but the paint is very good stuff.

I recently bought some of the new layer balor brown and khaki color equivalent and they give impressive results when used for layering and blending. They thin really well compared to VGC which I loathe like the devil.

I like some of the p3 colors a lot. Try them all. buy a wet palette. Paint more stuff.

P3 works better on a wet palette for me. But both ranges of paints that I love.