Switch Theme:

thinning my paints  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Grovelin' Grot




Long Beach Mississippi

Ok, this may be a pretty basic technique but it is new to me. Could anybody tell me about thinning paints. what does that mean, what are the benefits, and how does one go about it? I generally use "apple barrel" brand acrylic paints, i just squeeze a little out onto my paint tray and go to work. Is this method wrong? I do also use dry brushing techniques and washes. Any help would greatly be appreciated as I am always looking to learn.

 
   
Made in au
Oberstleutnant






Perth, West Australia

Here are some threads on thinning paint from the search function to get you stared:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/481931.page
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/463226.page
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/444784.page
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/436692.page
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/415405.page
This one: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/411194.page has this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=RH3Qg_OvRk4 which will show you which always helps.
   
Made in us
Grovelin' Grot




Long Beach Mississippi

thanks for pointing me in the right direction Yonan .

 
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

Understanding paint viscosity, and the pro's cons of having ti thick or thin can only really come from experience and practice,
Generally thinner paint is desired for several reasons; its self leveling and wont show brush marks, and wont fill up the details as easily, Also coverage tends to be better with less paint; sounds odd doesnt it!, if you do one big thick gloopy layer of white, compared to 3 or 4+ lovely thinned out layers of white then the coverage will be much better and likely use less actual paint.
For drybrushing, thinning might not be so clever, as making a paint more wet and then trying to do a dry technique is a bit backwards.

To actually go about thinning, put your paint on the pallete as normal, and also put a drop of clean (preferably distilled) water and add water to the paint with a brush a little at a time untill desired effect is attained. Maybe with additives in... flow aid, drying retarder, acrylic mediums.. theres a lot of scope for changing the behaviour of paints, and I cant suggest any untill you know what you want form the paint. Does it dry too fast? add retarder Do you have to add so much water to thin it that the colour is now too weak? add some flow aid and use less water than before. Need transparent colours for various layering or blending effects? matte medium is handy, want to airbrush? Airbrushing medium, or a solvent thinner will be needed.

Dont just thin your whole pot out, as you wont be drybrushing anymore

Edit; as a rule of thumb... citadel colours are not suitable for painting models right out of their pots, every colour is miles too thick and needs thinning a fair amount before any quality paint job can become possible really.
I had to actually laugh in the face of the guy running my local GW when the new paint line came out... he was really excited and insisted i try the new ceramite white base paint out because the coverage was apparantly just tooo good to be true. When i asked him if he has any distilled water, flow aid, drying retarder and matte medium on hand so I could actually paint well anything he looked at me gone out! And suggested that I paint it straight out of the pot, at which point I burst out laughing at him. Demonstrating to him what a difference even using tap water makes... I based one of the stores starter session marines with thick gloopy white and the eyes and riubs of all the cables dissapeared, but it was seemingly solid white, then I painted another instance of the exact same figure with ceramite white thinned out with clean tap water untill it was like milk, applied a very thin and patchy coat, followed by 2 more after each layer was dry, not only was every last little detail still clear, the white was actually noticably more white and cleaner looking than the gloopy model done in the way the fools behind the counter is teaching kids to do it! :/ then i showed him how much of a non improvement this is over skull white which comes out basically the same only is natrually a warmer white tone.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2013/05/31 02:24:40


'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
Made in us
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot





Raleigh, NC

+1 to everything HairySticks said.

In terms of what 'Mediums' are, it's just pigment-less paint. And you can get different finishes (Matte and Gloss) as well as different behaviors (Glaze and Airbrush). Matte medium is the most typical used for most people around here as everyone tends to prefer a matte finish on their final product, so why use gloss unless you want to punch up the shine on some metal that you've sprayed with matte varnish. Anyway, mixing matte medium into your paint doesn't change the viscosity (thinness) much unless you're paint is thicker than the medium already. But what it does is allow the same amount of pigment to spread into more volume, thus reducing the density of your pigment and providing some translucency to the paint. This is particularly good for layering and blending as a bit of the layer underneath will show through, improving and easing the blend into the next color.

Water does roughly the same thing, but with a lot more thinning of the viscosity at the same time.

Flow aid reduces the surface tension of the paint allowing it to more smoothly come off your brush in a nice even consistency. And also, if you're working with quite thin paint, especially thinned with water, it will have a tendency to pool together in clumpy puddles. Lowering the surface tension prevents the bonds that the water molecules naturally want to form with each other from forming as much.

Drying retarder keeps the acrylic medium - there's that word again - from curing into the thin film that it wants to form.


There's quite a bit you can do with those ingedients, and the mediums and stuff are pretty darn cheap considering the quantities you get from the Liquitex line, for example. Starting with water is perfectly acceptable, so don't feel like you have to go out and get all this stuff right away.

DA:80S+GMB--I+Pw40k97-D++A++/fWD250R+T(M)DM+
2nd Co. Doom Eagles
World Eaters
High Elves 
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

another really handy one is Ultra mattemedium, it wont thin anything as its rather thick by itself, but it sis matte finish and opaque; seems very likely that this is how the citadel basecoat paints are formulated, while the layer type paints are with regular semi transparent matte medium as the base for the paint. Their formula might be a bit different to what Liquitex make... proabably not very much though, but the effect is the same. One thing i've noticed about the mediums available from art suppliers is that theyre mostly a whitish colour and dry to be perfectly clear, like pva glue in that respect. They can appear to alter (lighten) your colour, but actually wont when dry. unless your reducing pigment density so much that the colour is supposed to be weak

Edit; pva glue wont do by the way its a rather different polymer. The mediums are also all archival quality adhesives that wont yellow over time. They stick much more strongly than pva does to a surface with tooth. You could make your own texture paint like the citadel ones but in much more useful quantities,Liquitex do premade texture mediums too as it happens aswell as one of the largest lines of premium quality acrylics in the world. Their fluid Ink's make lovely washes.

Its not unreasonably expensive to grab a selection of the smallest portion sizes that companies like liquitex (118ml) or windsor and newton offer (250ml), I think between 5 and 7 pounds is about right for a small 118ml bottle of liquitex mediums, compared to GW's £2.30 for 12ml of any product they do (lahmian medium?) ... price wise thats about 36ml vs 4 times that amount. They also will be useful for extending paint, as Citadels (or most hobby brands) paints are obscenely expensive by the ml (cant really fault the quality mind you) bottles of matte and ultra matte can double your paint volume without changing your colours too vastly. I always use ultra matte to mix up a base colour for a squad that I'm painting for example. (This allows you to make 'base' paints in any of the layer colours too.)

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/05/31 06:14:30


'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
Made in gb
Been Around the Block






Personally I use airbrush medium from Liquitex. Generally mixing that 1:1 with Vallejo acrylic paints gives me a milky consistency that does the job. As long as the resulting fluid is the viscosity of milk you're about where you need to be. Any thicker and it gums up the brush; any thinner and it acts more like a wash than a paint.

Raven's Nest Painting, commission painting service. View the website at:
http://www.ravensnestpainting.com/
Follow my recent work at;
https://www.facebook.com/RavensNestPainting
My DAKKA Gallery: CLICK HERE 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: