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I've found a drop of Tamiya clear paints makes for an awesome lens. Until it dries. Then it's just a messy glob. I know scale modelers use it for lenses, lamps, etc, but i can't figure it out. I tried painting a base of white first, but that just doesn't look right. Can anyone advise me on a better technique for them? I'd rather do it this way as I believe it will be simpler than the typical gemstone method, and easier to do on small lenses like those for optical implants on marines.

I have heard that you need to apply a silver/metallic basecoat in order to make the lenses work with the tamiya clears.

I have both red and green - in my opinion the red keeps its gloss better over most colors than the green does, but maybe I am just doing it wrong!

I'll give that a try, I've heard it elsewhere too. It's too bad we can't keep it looking just as it does when you first dab it in! I after my matte or satin varnishes, I always go back and ad some gloss with a brush where needed. That will help with your green.

Try using Pledge Future acrylic floor polish. This stuff is great and works very well for a number of various hobby applications ranging from the smoothest gloss you will ever find to taking imperfections out of clear parts making them more optically pure (great for canopies...). If you like to use decals, paint it on the area where the decal is to go first and let dry, apply the decal, and then give another layer to lock the decal in place. Give it a try, you will not regret it. A bottle will last you practically forever.

Base coating with a silver/gold can be good, BUT leave it to dry for several days or more, as you don't want the Clear coat to dissolve the silver/gold at all.

I love me some Future. It's all I use. Though, I have trouble getting the level of gloss from it some do, but a few coats is usually plenty. I think it seems glossier out of an airbrush. I also use it for thinner, it makes the best one I've used.

Clang, that's a good point. That stuff is pretty harsh, I wouldn't have thought of that.

I use the tamiya stuff a lot and I have to say that the only problem I've had with it is accidently touching it. I'd suggest that it should be nearly the last thing you use when painting models to avoid damaging it. Used in its undiluted form it just forms a skin that is easily damaged.
Apply it to the model and 24hours later give it a coat of gloss varnish. As for how to make them stand out;
1) If you are using clear red I'd suggest gold as the base. I used it for the blood drops on my Blood Angels and it gives a really good enamel jewel finish and it looks like blood.
2) Clear green. Use a bright green for the base as any other darker green will not show up the clear effect.
3) Clear yellow. I've tried gold and silver for this and I have to say that the finish was a bit meh. Next time I use it I'll opt for a very whitish yellow.
Hope this helps.

Yeah, I used some Smoke on the metal portion of my Wolf Lord and accidentally thumbed it before it was fully dry. Stuff gets gummy.

So far I've only used Smoke and Red. If I can get it to work, I will definitely get some others, maybe I will anyway. Looks weird when some lenses are done with the clears, and others the usual way.

I think Slipstream has hit it on the head for me! I am accidently touching it during other stages of modelling.

Cheers!

I may have to do some testing with this to see what effects I can get with differing base coats.