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Hello everyone. So this is the summer I want to paint my army. I like Ulthwe, I've spent a while collecting, I've done some painting before (Farseer with witchblade, a few Dire Avengers, a squad of guardians, a War Walker), but this summer is my project this summer. Unfortunately I'm running into a bit of a snag. A little background:

I'm a terrible painter. No, really, it's that bad. I'll probably post some pictures of my attempts once I get home. I want to paint my army myself because I'm just one of those kinds of people who likes personality lol, but I'm having the hardest time with it. Some of it is my inexperience, some of it is physical issues (I have Keratoconus, basically my eyes are shaped like cones instead of spheres. Makes it hard to handle small details. Think of it like an astigmatism that can't be corrected with glasses, laser surgery, or soft contacts), but some of it is from the fact I've purchased used models that have in many cases already been assembled. And this last one is where I come seeking advice:

Models like the current version of Dark Reapers, or of Striking Scorpions, etc. Basically any model where the arms are crossed in front of the torso holding or wielding a weapon. Perhaps it's my brush choice, but I feel like it's an impossible task to adequately paint a model when this is the situation. When I paint a model off a sprue, though time consuming, I feel I get the level of quality I'm looking for because I can move it every which way. But, and especially with fine cast models, if they are already assembled there's a good portion of the model I just can't get any kind of detail into because it's either exceptionally difficult to reach with my paintbrush or because I tried and broke the damn thing lol.

Can you guys suggest a technique, tutorial, or even a decent brush (Mine seem to fray within 12 hours of using them) that might make this project a little easier?

P.S. Here's what I'm looking to paint this summer in case anyone has any specific gems to share for individual models:

1 Wave Serpent on sprue, base coated brown
1 Used Wave Serpent (Hull assembled and glued, no base coat)
2 Used Wave Serpents (Assembled and painted, need to be stripped and repainted)
1 Used Falcon (Hull assembled and glued, no base coat)
3 Vyper Jet bikes (2 new and already in progress, 1 used and needs to be broken and base coated because it was poorly glued)
13 Guardian Jet Bikes (10 on sprue, conversion kits from Chapter House to turn them into Seer and warlock bikes. Last 3 in progress of being GJBs)
18 Dire Avengers (9 bare, 9 need stripping)
3 DA Exarchs (2 bare, 1 needs stripping)
8 Dark Reapers (4 base coated black, 4 bare, all finecast)
14 Rangers (bare, 10 finecast, 4 metal and OOP models)
5 War Walkers (2 base coated brown, 3 bare plastic)
1 Resin Eldar custom made ADL + Quad Gun (4 Bright Lances on a Heavy Support Platform base, all bare resin and plastic)
10 striking scorpions (5 bare resin, 5 needing stripping, FC)
2 SS Exarchs (1 bare, 1 needs stripping, FC)
5 Fire Dragons (need stripping, FC)
1 FD Exarch (need stripping, FC
5 New Wraithguard/Wraithblad (on sprue)
1 New Farseer (On sprue)
1 New Spiritseer (On Sprue)
1 New Illic (Sniper HQ, on sprue)
1 Chapter House Doom Seer (Depends on if they actually ship it or not given the recent ruling against it)
1 Farseer with Witchblade (FC)
6 Warlocks (3 Metal, 3 FC, the ones usually sold with the witchblade farseers as bodyguards)
10 Swooping Hawks (5 Metal, 5 FC, Bare or base coated white for the metal but might have to strip since the coating keeps chipping)
2 SH Exarchs (1 metal, 1 FC)
1 Wraithlord (Plastic model, started on this but having the hardest time with it already being assembled)

And of course, all the weapons and such that go with everything. This doesn't count the models I've already painted and need to touch up (of which there are sadly few).

I'm definitely interested in some of the newer models, but I don't want to buy anything until I have everything else painted! Please help haha


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Perhaps too long a post/too broad a question?

Maybe let's start with what's a good quality brush that won't fray quickly?

Or

A technique for someone with slightly impaired vision to use for painting tabletop-quality? I've not found any in my searches unfortunately.

I find that finding a spray paint the colour you want the model to be can go a long way in making the paint job go easier. Getting a tester sized spray can of green (for striking scorpions) and spraying the models after they are already based black can be really helpful. With care, the spraypaint can get into some of those hard-to-reach areas.
Another way to get around detailed painting is dipping. By painting the base colours (ie, spraying green, drybrushing a lighter green on the model, then edging areas in yellow for striking scorpions) dip the model to get all the shading without all the work. There are lots of dipping articles on DakkaDakka if you are interested. By only doing base colours and basic drybrushing, it cuts down on the fine detail work, so getting behind those pesky arms is less important.
Alternately, you can just cut the arms off. Use a very sharp knife to seperate at the joint where it was originally glued, then paint and glue it back together. Stick the model to a paint pot if you want, giving you more control while you paint and keeping your fingers off the model.
Personally, I would recommend dipping, especially if you are have trouble painting due to your eyesight. Drybrushing, directional spray painting and dipping require more of an understanding of how light hits a model then actually seeing it, and soon you should be able to do it with your eyes closed!

If you are interested, I'll try to post a detailed article sometime in the next week or so showing how to apply these techniques the best way I know how. I am in the middle of an eldar project myself, so we can do this little adventure together!

I've heard about dipping, but I'm unfamiliar with what it entails. Is it just dipping a model into a wash or something?


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I've posted some of my models as examples of my painting in case it helps for those seeking to offer criticism. They can be found in my Gallery.

Theres a special product out there you can use. The most popular one I know is Army Painters "Quickshade"
http://usshop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=1
There are example photos. Basically, dip in the model, shake it off so the dip doesnt pool (i glue upside down flying bases to the base of the model, dip and then spin them), then sit them upright and let them dry. Then spray them with a matte sealer (GW, Army painter both carry this) to get rid of the shine (or not). You can also apply quickshade with a brush, but it takes longer and sometimes spots can be missed.

The model you painted looks good. Definately tabletop ready. Are you thinking of basing it?

Aeroroot gives good advice.

I second Army Painter quickshade and dipping methods. Although I would recommend brushing it on rather than dipping the miniature as advertized. I used this product more often when i first started painting but still find in many cases it creates an optimal effect. For darker models spray priming black can help create immediate shadows in the cracks and areas you have trouble getting to. Then dipping is like insurance in that it tends to collect in those areas as well. I would also encourage you to look on you tube searching for dry brushing. It is a very effective technique for highlighting that does not require significant brush control. With that said I feel dry brushing is a quick win but can still have its problems and takes some experience and can create some chalky effects when not done properly. Its one of those things that I would say is easy to learn but difficult to master

I like dry brushing, but I feel as though it's very much a highlighting technique as it catches the edges but not much else. Well, at least the things I can see lol. I'll try and insert a picture of a farseer I used drybrushing.


Here's a link to it in my gallery: http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/508160-Farseer.html. Still working on posting it into the forum. There should be 2 additional pictures to go along with it:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/508161-Farseer.html
and
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/508159-Farseer.html

As for basing my models, I've not thought of anything yet. I'm trying to decide if I want them walking on something akin to a "porcelain" base (Like walking on marble, for example) as it would contrast with the darker tones of Ulthwe (which even my aspect warriors will be wearing), or if I will be looking for something a little more natural. Maybe there's a way to bring the psychic heritage of the craftworld into the base... could be interesting.



Addendum: Wow, I knew I needed to go back in and touch up several things on the farseer, but lord do these photos make her look terrible... Maybe I should use the photos as a blueprint of how my painting is progressing instead of trusting my vision.

Given your eye condition, and the sheer amount of stuff you have to paint, I'd absolutely go the Army Painter route. Colored primer, paint the broader areas a solid color, dip, then highlight with drybrushing. It's super easy, and the results are tabletop or better.

Unfortunately, that doesn't jive with the way I want my guys to look. Or maybe it could and I'm just not seeing it given my inexperience lol.

Example: My theory for painting my striking scorpions and to keep both their colors (greens and yellows) as well as Ulthwe's colors (bone and black) is to base the model in black, use a 1:4 or 1:5 ratio of Ulthran gray(sp?) to water in probably 3 or 4 layers to give some definition to the black, then do 3 or 4 layers in a 1:6 ratio of green to water (can't remember the name of it now) followed by a 1:3 yellow to water ratio on edges and larger plate areas, then touch up accents, runes, and other smaller details in bone (1:4 ratio) washed with Sepia. If the green or yellow get too overpowering, I'll hit it with a Nuln Oil. The Exarch will have a number more green and yellow layers given he's going to be "greener" because he's more scorpion than he is Ulthwe member, and probably won't have nuln oil. If that makes sense. At all.

IMO, I would prime white so your greens and yellows pop. It's always easier to darken things than it is to lighten them.

But you seem to have a plan, which is more than I generally do when I start out.

Would you recommend basing in white even if my ending color scheme is going to be quite dark? The majority for my infantry has always been black with bone accents, the exceptions being exarchs and HQ units who typically take a few extra colors (increased aspect colors showing for exarchs, use of purple and gehenna gold for Psykers).

I'm not a big fan of priming white unless the model is supposed to be lighter. Standard Striking Scorpions, I would prime white, but if black primer is what you prefer, stick with that. Myself, I prime a dark gray.

The thing about primer colors is this:

Black primer is that cool guy who offers to buy you a pint at the bar, hooks you up with women, and in general is a reasonable, nice guy to be around.

White primer is the selfrighteous judgmental guy who always shows up where ever you are and loves to point out your flaws to everyone.

Taken out of analogy: Black primer is much more forgiving about spots you miss, those awkward crevices where it's hard to make sure you get in there and get it fully painted, and usually looks more "grimdark" as a basecoat. White primer makes it really easy to get colors brighter and more vibrant, but it also has a knack for highlighting any missed corners or thin patches you happen to have, however tiny they are.

Yeah I think I'll prime black and then turn some gray into a wash and slowly build up the detail through that before I start with the actual color. Were I... well... pretty much any other craftworld actually... I'd probably be priming white lol.

Here's an example of what I attempted yesterday

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/508246-.html?m=2

deathmagiks wrote:
Yeah I think I'll prime black and then turn some gray into a wash and slowly build up the detail through that before I start with the actual color. Were I... well... pretty much any other craftworld actually... I'd probably be priming white lol.

Here's an example of what I attempted yesterday

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/508246-.html?m=2

They're not a bad start. You need to wash the masks to bring a bit more color to them.

They've been washed with Sepia, don't think I took the picture at a good angle to show it heh.


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a friend had suggested I drybrush a light red from 2/3 of the distance between the topknot and the bottom of the hair, and then follow that with an orange on the bottom 1/3, leaving the top 1/3 untouched by the dry brush

Not bad. Looks like a lot of work though. Good luck!

An example of my mashup of colors when combining craftworld and aspect colors

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/508536-.html?m=2


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Not the best picture, I'll try to take a better one.

deathmagiks wrote:Would you recommend basing in white even if my ending color scheme is going to be quite dark? The majority for my infantry has always been black with bone accents, the exceptions being exarchs and HQ units who typically take a few extra colors (increased aspect colors showing for exarchs, use of purple and gehenna gold for Psykers).

Don't base white, I hesitate to say ever but: ever.

With both what you want to do and the difficulty you describe you should invest in an airbrush if you can afford it. It can reach the places you can't and it's easy to use for the vision impaired (I have extreme myopia)

The cost isnt huge, but it's not insignificant.

It lets you use only smaller detail brushes and you can wear magnifiers for that. There are a number of great Kolinski Sable brushes: the Series 7 is among the best.

I strategically disassemble old models when the need it. But for the most part if you have to yank it apart; it doesn't need paint.

Airbrush just isn't in the cards. With as much as I've invested into the hobby already, I couldn't justify a purchase of such a machine just for painting minis.

As for the brushes though, I'll have to do a search on them. Any suggested retailers?

Dick Blick is a good retailer in that they have everything and the prices aren't high. But there's no guarantee the it's the best place.