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Made in us
Stalwart Space Marine




Chicago

Newest Terminators I'm working on, comments/criticism welcome (pictures were taken last night, and are not the best)









   
Made in us
Masculine Male Wych





TN

From the pictures, the color looks smooth and uniform and the lines look clean. Have you shaded/highlighted yet? It's hard to tell. Looks great so far.
   
Made in gb
Morphing Obliterator




Medrengard

Looking good

12000 pts
5000pts 
   
Made in us
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot





Nice and clean, son of Nocturne.

Hail the Emperor. 
   
Made in us
Stalwart Space Marine




Chicago

Thanks for the replies guys. Here is the "finished" product





Now onto the basing question, as I tried something new for this batch, let me know what you guys think.

This is the new base. its crackle medium + orange translucent paint. I need to clean up the edges where the paint goes in a bit more, but it will also be hidden under the guy somewhat so its not that noticeable.



This is what he would look like if I attach him to the base



This is my old basing, which I like in how bright it is. (older terminator from the DV box set)



Let me know what you guys think, hope these pictures are a bit more detailed.
   
Made in us
Slippery Scout Biker





I like the new base better than the other one! So what cracked medium and what translucent orange paint did you use? Okay I'm really asking for a quick tutorial, you caught me.
   
Made in gb
Morphing Obliterator




Medrengard

Love the basing and echo the comment above. Nice minis too

12000 pts
5000pts 
   
Made in ca
Grey Knight Psionic Stormraven Pilot





Canada

Looks very good, love Salamanders

Abyssus abyssum invocat

 
   
Made in us
Monstrous Master Moulder





Utah

Looks really great. I must say the new lava base blows the old one out of the water. Nice work!

 
   
Made in us
Stalwart Space Marine




Chicago

tomcat31 wrote:
Love the basing and echo the comment above. Nice minis too


The Crackle Paste that I use is from Golden Artist Colors, found it at an art store, but i'm sure any crackle paste will work.

The translucent paints I use are from Com-Art but again, you just need a orange/red/yellow high gloss color. The Com-Art stuff is for airbrushing so no thinning is neeed.

I'm working on a dreadnought base right now, so I'll take some in progress pictures as I go.
   
Made in au
Slippery Scout Biker




These are so awesome, I love that you've done the whole salamander theme so well, and I REALLY like the bases!

With your shield or upon it.  
   
Made in us
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot





The darker base looks more realistic and helps the model pop more without drawing attention away from it.

Hail the Emperor. 
   
Made in us
Hellish Haemonculus






Boskydell, IL

I play Salamanders and I simply LOVE what you've done with your models.

That being said, if you're asking for opinions, I say go with the darker base, which tones down the lava effect a great deal. Despite being a big fan of the XVIII boys, I don't dig on the lava bases so much. I think a subtler version is definitely the way to go.

Amazing job on both that storm shield as well as those shoulder pads! Awesome work.

Welcome to the Freakshow!

(Leadership-shenanigans for Eldar of all types.) 
   
Made in us
Stalwart Space Marine




Chicago

Thanks for all the positive feedback, I'm starting to like the darker lava bases more and more too.

Here are the steps I take to make the bases

1. Apply some glue to the base, I use Elmer's Glue-All. Not sure if there is anything special about it, looks just like regular white glue. The glue will inhibit the cracking a bit, but will also improve the durability. If you skip the glue at this phase, you might need to apply some in spots later.


2. Apply the crackle paste (Golden Crackle Paste) to the glue. The thickness of the paste determines how big the cracks will get, the thinner the finer the cracks. Second picture shows about how thin the application is. You can get a bit creative here with raised edges/groves.




3. Apply the paint, in my case I use a combination of translucent orange/yellow/red. If the paint is thin enough, it will flow into the cracks really well. You might need to touch up the larger cracks with a paintbrush and some standard paint. At this phase the base will look awful, and you will want to throw it out.


4. Paint, this particular one was airbrushed black, then airbrushed a really light coat of fine gray to shade it a bit. When you spray this, spray at a low angle to avoid getting paint into the cracks.


5. Drybrush/Wash to add a bit more detail and shading. Do your best to avoid getting any paint into the cracks

   
 
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