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What strength magnets should I use for models? I have never magnetized and with the sheer number of weapon options Eldar vehicles and MC's get i would like to not have a model for every weapon option. I am looking at N52 magnets most likely 1/32 width and 1/8 to 1/4 diameter.

I use 1-1,5 mm diameter magnets for my Eldar infantry
2 mm for MC's
3 mm for vehicles

 D4X wrote:
I use 1-1,5 cm diameter magnets for my Eldar infantry
2 cm for MC's
3 cm for vehicles

He means mm, not cm. I've found that 3mm x 0.5mm magnets do the trick for most jobs, although I have a stash of 6mm x 0.5mm magnets I use for vehicle turrets. As long as you're doing magnet to magnet joins, and not magnet to steel or the like, the Neodymium magnets are almost certainly strong enough. Although my early attempts to magnetise a carnifex were a failure due to the length and weight of the heavy gun arms causing the arms to pivot. An extra pin would have fixed that up no problem though.

I'd say that the size of the magnets has more effect on the reliability of a joint than the pull strength, so choosing a taller magnet (assuming you countersink them), if not a broader one, as well, will do more than buying grade N52 over N42. We (wargamers, that is) have been using N42 successfully for years - you're welcome to upgrade, of course, but I don't think it's worth even a relatively small bump in cost.

I primarily use 3/16"x1/16" N42 magnets, as I generally prefer multiple smaller magnets (or a combination of a magnet and pin) to one big one, even when working on vehicles, and they also work for many troop options. I have a number of 1/4"x1/16" disks, as well, but I've only found them necessary on large, magnet-metal joins (scratchbuilt titan weapons - much lighter weight than resin, but long, meaning lots of torque, and attached to a washer for freedom of rotation).

If you're looking primarily at vehicles and MCs, I'd suggest getting both 1/8" and 1/4" magnets. Knowing that you'll likely have the space to countersink them, I'd step up to 1/16" thickness, though. Even with 1/32", noticeable gaps develop at magnetized joints when flush-mounted. If you want things to look natural, you need to drill holes and at that point, it's no more difficult to go a tiny bit deeper. The extra thickness gives a stronger pull and, perhaps more importantly, lets the magnet seat more firmly.