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Another poster had a little thread going about models falling apart using GW glue. I too have this issue. Some people in the thread suggested using various other products but there weren't a lot of specifics.

So, that's what this thread is about. What glue do you use? Enlighten us.

Edit : I'm also interested in discussion of fancy applicators and dispensers. I've seen a few of them rear their heads in various youtube videos but don't know what brand/type they actually are.

Crazy glue. Just normal crazy glue. Best thing I have ever used and I have tried them all. Don't bother with any of the thick glue it just makes a mess gorilla glue takes forever to stick. Locktite is also ok but crazy glue is the best.

I like the gel formula crazy glue actually. Little goes a long way, does a bit of gap filling. But I do second the notion of not needing to buy special fancy "model" glue, GW or other wise.

As for applicators, the most I ever needed was the nozzle the glue tubes come in, and a toothpick to spread around or clean up excess.

Gel superglue is really good, definitely get the stuff.

I've had good results with the testors liquid cement, never had it break ever.

Superglue I've had less luck with. The loctite gel and liquid stuff as failed me. I put a bunch of ogre's together with it and parts are constantly breaking off. Its just so fragile.

Oddly enough I haven't had trouble with GW plastic glue. I must always get the good batches.

GW glue has been good to me, never had any trouble with it that wasn't me just gluing something badly.

Any good Cyanoacrylate should do the trick, I highly suggest getting familiar with this wiki page:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

Personally I use the gorilla glue CA because it is really cheap and I can get it less than a block away at odd hours if need be.

Revell contacta plastic glue is good. Zap-a-gap gel is the superglue I'm using now, after using some normal brand and no-name superglues I'm really liking the gel consistency.

Loctite superglue is all you need for metal or finecast, their gel is the best of their range IMO.

For plastic Humbrol poly cement is the best glue I have ever used. It has a lovely fine needle and unlike GW glue it actually glues things together.

Nine times out of ten if a glued joint fails it's not the fault of the glue, rather it's an assembly failure.

Superglue, or Cyanoacrylate, is an anerobic adhesive, which works in the absence of oxygen.
It works best when the join is very close fitting, in fact the closer the better.
I get the same results from properly applied CA regardless of brand.

Joins must be close fitting and clean, most models have traces of mould release which will inhibit adhesion.

You want a small amount of the stuff. One of the best ways to use it is to use very thin CA and let it wick into an assembled joint.
The gel just leads to people using too much, which causes brittle joints.
I use a sewing needle held in an old pin vise, point first, with the end of the eye clipped off, giving a small prong. I can apply small amounts just where it's needed.

For some joins I add a small ball of epoxy putty (green stuff or similar) with CA on either side of the join, then when the GS is compressed it fills the join perfectly.
For heavy metal models, I'll sometimes pin as well.

I use locktite gel superglue and humbrol plastic glue the one with a long metal applicator never had any trouble with these,
If you are using super glue would recommend reading up on accelerators, water in a little spray bottle is very handy to have.
It also helps to pin superglued joints to improve their strength.

 liturgies of blood wrote:
Loctite superglue is all you need for metal or finecast, their gel is the best of their range IMO.

For plastic Humbrol poly cement is the best glue I have ever used. It has a lovely fine needle and unlike GW glue it actually glues things together.

As above.

can we sticky this? :/

revell contacta glues over paint too!

For plastic glue: Revell contacta is brilliant!
Superglue: haven't quite decided. Just got some zap-a-gap, works fine so far

and Revell contacta doesn't quite glue 'over' paint, it will dissolve the paint and glue 'through' the paint in my experience

If you're gluing plastic to plastic DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. It's really not the best product for this. Any good plastic model cement will do a better job of gluing the part as it tends to weld the plastic together rather than sticking it together. It's also going to have a little bit more give while the super glue is going to be much more brittle.

On top of that, many super-glue accelerators (Zip Kicker, etc.) will damage polystyrene - especially small parts.

Super glue is great, when needed, but for plastic-to-plastic bonds use a plastic model glue.

 Dullspork wrote:
If you're gluing plastic to plastic DO NOT USE SUPERGLUE. It's really not the best product for this. Any good plastic model cement will do a better job of gluing the part as it tends to weld the plastic together rather than sticking it together. It's also going to have a little bit more give while the super glue is going to be much more brittle.

On top of that, many super-glue accelerators (Zip Kicker, etc.) will damage polystyrene - especially small parts.

Super glue is great, when needed, but for plastic-to-plastic bonds use a plastic model glue.

However if you're the type of person that is always converting and re-doing models, my friend uses super glue exclusively on his troops, yes there is a bit of filing to get it off if you snap the joint to change an arm but unlike plastic glue you can actually snap the joint without destroying the model.

I've seen models fall apart when too much glue is used. Using too much can actually prevent the bonding from setting up properly.