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Made in us
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon





Seattle, WA

I'm wanting to build my own drop pods and plan on using the French templates most likely. I want to use plasticard and have the doors be openable so the weapon inside is useable.

Has anyone done this? I couldn't find anything in my searches. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Sven Bloodhowl's Great Company 2750
Nihilakh Dynasty WIP
Loki's Thousand Sons: 700 WIP

DQ:80-SG-M++B--I+Pw40k13#-D++A+/fWD-R+T(M)DM+ 
   
Made in au
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard






Newcastle, OZ

Probably the best method would be by using nested tubing (two sizes of tubing, one inside the other). I've made a few things out of plasticard, and this gives the easiest hinge.

I just made mine out of foamcard (from those templates), though - it made it easier to give them away when I gave up playing marines.

I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.

That is not dead which can eternal lie ...

... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
 
   
Made in us
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon





Seattle, WA

That's not a bad idea. I'd also thought of magnetizing the hinges and top of the door.

Do you think plasticard would work with those templates? I'm not sure of the intended thickness of a few of those pieces.

Sven Bloodhowl's Great Company 2750
Nihilakh Dynasty WIP
Loki's Thousand Sons: 700 WIP

DQ:80-SG-M++B--I+Pw40k13#-D++A+/fWD-R+T(M)DM+ 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

I think that nested tube or tube/rod hinges are the way to go, as well. Magnets at the top to keep the doors closed sounds good, too, and rather simple to install.

As for using plasticard, it should be fine. The "fins" that form the basis of the structure are the only feature where you really need to worry about thickness. Those might best be constructed out of foamcore, with a plasticard skin (the recommended method for at least some of the templates I've seen). Since the doors face empty space, you don't have to be overly concerned with the thickness of what you're layering - so long as the dimensions along the face are accurate, they'll work. Material thickness mainly becomes a concern if trying to keep proper proportions when using angled butt joints (e.g. building a box-like structure). Unless the parts are very close-fitting, like the inside faces of adjoining sub-assemblies, you usually have plenty of space for "skinning" and detailing.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon





Seattle, WA

There's another thread I've been following and up until now it didn't dawn on me that he's been using plasticard rather than cardstock. Seems to work out well, just like you say.

Tube and rod hinges would probably be the easiest, and most durable really. Since these patterns are the Dreadnought Drop Pod design, and for simplicity, I've decided I'll leave the inside fairly plain. However, I did find some 'diamond plate' plasticard at my FLHS, so that will go well in a few places.

As for the fins, I think you're right. I'm sure there is thick enough plasticard out there, but I imagine it won't be available locally, and also a bit of a pain to work with. The pattern leaves the fins pretty well skinned in plasticard, should be durable enough I suppose. It's not like it'll be getting drop kicked regularly.

Until now, I've never really considered running my Space Wolves in a pod list, but maybe I should.

Sven Bloodhowl's Great Company 2750
Nihilakh Dynasty WIP
Loki's Thousand Sons: 700 WIP

DQ:80-SG-M++B--I+Pw40k13#-D++A+/fWD-R+T(M)DM+ 
   
 
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